Re: Steampunk Ironman Helmet WIP - Microphone WIP
I'll say this right up front, I am in total awe of professionals that create molds and cast pieces for a living! :eek
I got to hang out with the folks that are creating the molds for the helmet and faceplate I'm offering over in the JY (
HERE).
For anyone as interested in the process they used as I was, I've detailed what I got to see and even snapped a couple photos....
1) Filling all the holes in the helmet for the roto-cast mold.
Before a roto-cast mold can be made for any helmet, all the holes (open areas) must be filled. This was done with about 30lbs of clay which was worked down until it filled the entire 'head area' of the helmet. Clay was pushed through the back vents and in between the communicator cross-bars.
After enough clay was added, it was smoothed and a 'trench' was created around all the edges. This will make it easier to clearly see where the 'trim lines' are.
2) Preparing the faceplate for molding.
Like the helmet, the faceplate had to be prepared for molding. In this case, since it is going to be an open-faced fiberglass mold, it was 'mounted' on the workbench surface on a mound of clay.
With this done, they were ready to prep for their fiberglass jackets...
3) Peparing the faceplate for it's Fiberglass Jacket.
Ok, this part is uber-cool... Between what you see in the last photo and the fiberglass 'jackets' will be the silicon mold. But you need to build the jacket BEFORE it can be filled with silicon, so the ingenious solution is to create a 'filler' that will provide the correct ~1" depth all around the piece. Here's the step-by-step:
- Lightly wrap the piece in plastic wrap.
- Shave your clay block into 1" slabs.
- Place the clay slabs (gently) onto the piece and smooth out all the seam.
- Create a lip 1" deep around the outside edge of the piece.
- Carve a 'trench' all the way around that edge.
- Sign the mold with the artist mark and/or the name of the mold.
Here is what the faceplate looked like after this 'filler clay' was added.
REMEMBER: all this clay you now see will EVENTUALLY be the silicon mold and OVER this will be a hardened fiberglass jacket that will hold the silicon in place. So, that clever little groove will turn into a GREAT way to secure the silicon mold to the hardened fiberglass jacket! :love
4) Preparing the Helmet for it's fiberglass jacket.
Like the faceplate the helmet needed to have a consistent layer of 'filler' added to it. But in the case of the roto-cast, this will require a two-piece jacket. They decided to seam the two down the middle of the helmet (front to back). So, after the clay was added aluminum sheets were inserted into the clay (like a Mohawk) along this projected seam line. And then the 'lip' with the locking 'trench' was created ON this aluminum ledge.
5) Fiberglassing 101
I'm a bloody idiot and a total novice. :confused Seriously, to see this professional whip up high-end resin and then create a perfect double-layer of re-enforced fiberglass that will produce an amazingly smooth and solid mold-jacket was an awesome thing to witness! "I'm not worthy!" ran through my head at least a few times.

:thumbsup
Anyway, in less than 25 minutes both the helmet and faceplate was done.
Top one is the faceplate and the bottom one is the left side of the helmet.
6) Pouring the silicon for the faceplate.
At this point I had to leave... Sorry guys! Mikey had his second doctors visit of the day and my wife and I had to swap out. That being said I can provide you with the explanation I got as the to these next step (just with no pictures). :cry
- The jacket and table are marked so the jacket can go back EXACTLY where it was.
- The fiberglass jacket is gentle peeled off the and the filler clay is removed (same with the plastic wrap).
- A large hole (the size of a toliet paper roll) is cut in the top of the mold - this is where the silicon will be poured into the jacket.
- A bunch of small holes are drilled all over the jacket.
- The jacket is placed back over the prepared piece (using the markings made earlier).
- It is secured to the table and then silicon is poured into the jacket from the top hole.
- As the silicon fills the jacket it will begin to seep out of the tiny holes. These are then filled with plugs (this insures there are no air bubbles created as it fills).
- Once topped off with silicon, it's left to set for 24 hours.
This will result in a flexible and highly accurate silicon mold with a perfectly fitted and strong fiberglass jacket that will help it hold it's shape when fiberglass is used to fill the silicon mold. I'm told, I might get a picture tomorrow evening of the first faceplate pull!!! So, I'm excited to see how it comes out! I'm sure it will look amazing... this studio is aces.

:thumbsup