No, adhesion promoter is more akin to plastic cement (the liquid stuff). It's basically designed to eat into the plastic slightly to grab on and then the next layer can chemically grab on to that. If you let it sit too long it just evaporates, so it really has no substance to it.
Additionally, I and others have made the mistake of thinking that primer or a compatible paint laid down first will provide a barrier, but it only delays the chemicals leeching through to the incompatible paint. So, I'm not confident in saying there's an easy way to create a barrier between the two. Kind of like if you try to paint over Sharpie, no matter how many coats you use it always manages to show up again.
All of this is to say that you'll have to test before you commit. Generally, water-based paints are fine, as are lacquer-based ones most of the time. Enamel is almost always out. Easy way to tell is if the "cleanup" section of the label mentions acetone or mineral spirits then it's enamel, lacquer thinner is lacquer (95% of the time anyway).