Re: Guardians of the Galaxy: Star Lord with lights and sound.
Maybe next time, Mule - would have loved to trade, too. I actually put a wanted thread up about the pants, but nobody responded, so I resorted to the professional tailor instead. Man knows his stuff, though, so I'm sure they'll end up great.
The Walkman is pretty much ready to be painted and closed up, but I didn't have weather in my favor today, so I ended up poking at it and adding a couple more features. I wired the FFW and REW buttons into Next Track and Previous Track, respectively, and the play button now... well, plays and pauses the tracks. The entire device can be toggled on and off via pushbutton on top of the device, disguised under the "Hot Mic" orange button that sticks out of the top. There's now a stereo jack to plug a pair of headphones into, and I replaced the second hole that would normally be a
second headphone jack on the device with a red LED indicator.
But, for this next part -
never let it be said that I know when to quit.
I was thinking about how best to get the branding on the front of the Walkman - the "SONY", "WALKMAN", and arrow designs. And I got to thinking... why not 3d print them?
I hauled the logos into Illustrator, vectorized them and turned them into splines that 3d Studio Max could use, extruded some shapes out of them, and before I knew it, I had some models done! I loaded them into my slicing software - Simplify3d - and had the program put together paths that the printer could follow to recreate the logos.
The observant among you will notice the logos are backwards -
this is on purpose. My print bed is a slab of heated glass, and the surfaces that are face-down on the plate tend to print mirror-smooth, whereas the printer will create visible lines on the top surfaces of the thing you're producing. The other huge benefit to 3d printing on a glass surface is that when you're done with the print, you put the whole glass plate, print and all, into a fridge or freezer. The materials (plastic and glass) contract at different rates as they cool, which basically makes the prints fall off the plate.
Here's my printed letters! I'm holding them up on the glass plate. I popped them off, and just laid them out roughly...
... and then decided to get a bit more intelligent about how I was gluing these things down. I poured out some superglue, used a piece of scrap plastic to scrape it into a thin sheet, then grabbed a pair of tweezers and carefully dipped the letters into the glue. Then, I moved the letters into position, using the blue tape as a baseline for the letters, and pressed them down hard once they were lined up in the right place.
And when it's all said and done...
Yeah, okay, it's not 100% perfect. But if anyone leans in that close to this thing on my belt to critique my kerning, they're going to get a knee to the jaw.
I primed it with some high fill primer to help close any gaps up, and now I'm leaving it to sit overnight.
Hopefully by tomorrow the weather will be more cooperative and I will have the chance to spray my metallic blue!
While I was fiddling around with stuff in the shed today, my lovely lady got workin' on her Groot costume. She's going as
sexy Groot, or at least that's what I've decided to call it! She took one of her fashion corsets and started gluing all manner of fabric on it to try and produce a wooded / bark texture...
... I think I know why my pillow has been missing.
After she got that tidied up, she grabbed a slab of EVA foam and started carving out a proper Groot Mask!
She has ordered some leggings with a tree bark pattern, so we'll see how that turns out.
Lastly, I've got room for some audience participation here. When I first started working on the top barrels of the blasters, I carved out the oval 'vent' shape on one side...
... but I realized I couldn't carve the one on the other side out without interfering with the latching mechanism - i.e. how the gun opens and closes.
There's a latch right on the opposite side that attaches precisely where I would otherwise need to carve the oval out.
I'm pretty sure I'm going to fill the oval I carved out back in with body filler (Bondo) and sand it smooth. The only real thing I'm not sure about is whether I should try putting new oval vent holes in somewhere farther forward or back on the gun, or if I should just leave the covers as a smooth solid piece. What do you guys think?