Star Fleet Research Startup & Phaser Prototype (TOS)

Found the image I was searching for. Brad Nelson NY convention late 1970s. (Moved "the original copycats" image to the link below.)

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The Original Copycats
 
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Laser1959, you wrote: "I am Brad's historian....I have pretty much seen photographed, and handled every version Brad made, including the ones he made for Gene Roddenberry"

Have you written/published a photo book on Brad's P2? Are you planning to do so?

Thanks in advance.
 
That does not look like the Jim Kirk I met.

Moved my reply over to:

 
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Recently doing a bit of touchup work on my replica PHASE II prop (cast from a real Brad Nelson phaser, with mods made by me to incorporate the removable handle and the wooden block/Velcro system inside the P2 body) got me back into reading up on all of this history.

Going back to thecopycats.org, I was surprised (and pleased) to see the recent update covering the limited number of PHASE II style pistols (static, with removable handle and P1) which were made and sold upon request. Very cool.

I’m too young to have been around for those conventions in the 70s, but that whole era between TOS and TMP fascinates me. Mr. Nelson and the others from that era were fulfilling fans’ need for props and other goodies from TOS, and they did a remarkable job with limited reference materials and limited technology. Unlicensed bootlegs with homemade electronics, yes, but also filled to bursting with ingenuity, passion, and talent.

Mr. Nelson’s phaser design has numerous inaccuracies and artistic liberties when compared to the TOS props. Yet, his design has its own aesthetic appeal, and it really is gorgeous. My own replica is a real highlight of my collection.

It’s no wonder that several TOS actors ended up buying some (and famously showed them off on shows like Tom Snyder’s “Tomorrow” and HOLLYWOOD SQUARES), or that Roddenberry commissioned some for PHASE II. It’s a shame that PHASE II was never produced, and that Mr. Nelson never became an Ascended Fan (like the Okudas, Doug Drexler, etc.) whose work became part of an actual STAR TREK production.

We may now be spoiled by the likes of Master Replicas, The Wand Company, Diamond Select, and any other number of licensed and fan-made replicas, but there’s a magic to those early convention props which can’t quite be captured by today’s slick and super-accurate replicas and toys.
 
Recently doing a bit of touchup work on my replica PHASE II prop (cast from a real Brad Nelson phaser, with mods made by me to incorporate the removable handle and the wooden block/Velcro system inside the P2 body) got me back into reading up on all of this history.

Going back to thecopycats.org, I was surprised (and pleased) to see the recent update covering the limited number of PHASE II style pistols (static, with removable handle and P1) which were made and sold upon request. Very cool.

I’m too young to have been around for those conventions in the 70s, but that whole era between TOS and TMP fascinates me. Mr. Nelson and the others from that era were fulfilling fans’ need for props and other goodies from TOS, and they did a remarkable job with limited reference materials and limited technology. Unlicensed bootlegs with homemade electronics, yes, but also filled to bursting with ingenuity, passion, and talent.

Mr. Nelson’s phaser design has numerous inaccuracies and artistic liberties when compared to the TOS props. Yet, his design has its own aesthetic appeal, and it really is gorgeous. My own replica is a real highlight of my collection.

It’s no wonder that several TOS actors ended up buying some (and famously showed them off on shows like Tom Snyder’s “Tomorrow” and HOLLYWOOD SQUARES), or that Roddenberry commissioned some for PHASE II. It’s a shame that PHASE II was never produced, and that Mr. Nelson never became an Ascended Fan (like the Okudas, Doug Drexler, etc.) whose work became part of an actual STAR TREK production.

We may now be spoiled by the likes of Master Replicas, The Wand Company, Diamond Select, and any other number of licensed and fan-made replicas, but there’s a magic to those early convention props which can’t quite be captured by today’s slick and super-accurate replicas and toys.

Very well said!

Your replica came out great btw, watched the build on TPZ, provided you the correct thumbwheel pot/switch. Brad’s wood block / handle design was innovative. He often thinks “what if” they made Phase II…

First time we saw or even heard of the custom ordered take-apart so it had to go up in detail on the site. We still can’t account for all 12 of the original GR phaser 2’s, only 6. Maybe 6 or 7 of the 15 hand phasers.

Great times…
 
Very well said!

Your replica came out great btw, watched the build on TPZ, provided you the correct thumbwheel pot/switch. Brad’s wood block / handle design was innovative. He often thinks “what if” they made Phase II…

First time we saw or even heard of the custom ordered take-apart so it had to go up in detail on the site. We still can’t account for all 12 of the original GR phaser 2’s, only 6. Maybe 6 or 7 of the 15 hand phasers.

Great times…


My one regret is that, thanks to the documenting of that take-apart PHASE II model, there's now much better reference on the shape and size of the wooden block, which would have really helped on my build.

My setup still works perfectly well, though. The handle has almost no wiggle, partly due to the fact that I used chrome tape at the top of the handle, rather than leaving it as raw, unpainted aluminum, like on the originals. The tape provides a slicker look, and also acts as a shim against the inside of the trigger box.
 
My one regret is that, thanks to the documenting of that take-apart PHASE II model, there's now much better reference on the shape and size of the wooden block, which would have really helped on my build.

My setup still works perfectly well, though. The handle has almost no wiggle, partly due to the fact that I used chrome tape at the top of the handle, rather than leaving it as raw, unpainted aluminum, like on the originals. The tape provides a slicker look, and also acts as a shim against the inside of the trigger box.

Up until now we hadn't had the opportunity to examine one and never once thought to ask Brad! If you want to make another wood block I sketched the dimensions and even made one for another member's replica Phase II build.
 
Up until now we hadn't had the opportunity to examine one and never once thought to ask Brad! If you want to make another wood block I sketched the dimensions and even made one for another member's replica Phase II build.

As I recall, I was foolish enough to install mine with JB Weld (rather than E6000 or something weaker) in order to keep it structurally stable, what with all the stresses from removing the P1 and the handle.

I suppose I could try to remove it, but the resin body shell probably would go before the epoxy. It would be a lot of work for something one doesn't even see when the prop is assembled.

Not the end of the world. It looks and works just fine as-is. Thanks, though!
 
Finished reconditioning my PHASE II phaser. I really do love this thing. Having all of that grassroots history behind it makes it a very interesting prop.

Makes me want to seek out another replica kit and do it up in the early Brad Nelson style, with the prismatic P1 tape, etc.

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I’m pleased to report that I have another replica Brad Nelson phaser kit on the way to me (with electronics simulating—but not precisely replicating—the originals), thanks to the incomparable Nicksdad. I’ll be building it up in the early-ish style, with tall knob, prismatic tape, red/green power meter, etc.

Should I start a separate build thread, or would y’all like me to document it in this one?

Anyway, I have a can of Rustoleum Textured Dark Pewter paint, left over from when I was deciding what color to paint my PHASE II build. I ended up painting it in Krylon Shadow Gray (which has that blue tint seen on the real props), but I’m glad I hung onto the pewter, since that appears to be a good match for the early Nelsons.

As for the P1, I presume a non-textured, semi-gloss black should suffice.

Any recommendations or accuracy tips are welcome. Once I have the kit in-hand and have given it a once-over, I’ll have a better idea of what needs to be done.
 
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