Brad Nelson phaser build

[Gregatron]

It recently came to my attention that the incomparable Nicksdad had done a run of replica Brad Nelson phaser kits, cast from an original. Having already built a static kit from another maker in the PHASE II style (no electronics, detachable handle, etc.), I still felt the urge to do a “convention”-style Nelson.

So, I acquired one of Nicksdad’s gorgeous kits, which arrived today. The kit also includes an electronics package to simulate (but not exactly replicate) one from a Nelson phaser. I still need to work out a battery setup. And I have a leftover trigger switch from my previous build, but it now looks like it may not be compatible with the Nicksdad aluminum trigger, since I had to trim the red trigger stem down a bit while working on the fit and action of the trigger. I may have to seek out another vintage trigger, or find a modern equivalent.

Anyway, I’ve already done some preliminary work—degreasing the resin parts, driling holes for the emitter and trigger, etc. Need to do some bodywork and test-fitting before any assembly.

I’m going for a later Version 1-style Nelson build—tall tenturn knob, red/green battery meter, prismatic crispy, etc. I have a leftover can of Rustoleum Textured Dark Pewter Gray, which looks to be a good match for the P2 body color. And I presume a semigloss black would be accurate for the P1.

I’m also wondering about how best to perform the joining of the trigger box to the handle. I believe the real Nelsons used epoxy.


Any tips, tricks, or accuracy details would be appreciated! Thanks!

 

[AJK001]

Looking forward to your build.

 

[Apollo]

These always have and always will have a special place in my heart, as they should , I sold enough of them!

Looking forward to your blast from the past build!!

 

[Gregatron]

I’ve got epoxy curing on the two aluminum tubes which form the handle. Once that’s done, I can fill the seams and apply a coat of filler primer.

Meanwhile, I think I may be able to savage the vintage trigger switch by gluing a brass tube over it to extend it, so that the inner hole of the aluminum trigger makes contact with it.

 

[TopgunTech2]

The Krylon textured dark pewter gray is an excellent color but the texture however may be a bit much for an early build. I’ve been able to knock some of the texture down by gently rubbing/buffing the paint with a lint free towel at the point where the paint is almost dry. Experiment for yourself.

On the very early hand units we use Krylon Rust Tough semi-flat black #RTA9203 (surprisingly, very consistent production batches). On the later hand units (pre GR matte textured), Krylon Supermaxx (later changed to ColorMaster and now Fusion AIO) available in both satin-black and matte-black. The formulas can be off so really it boils down to personal preference and how it looks with your body color.

 

[Gregatron]

The Krylon textured dark pewter gray is an excellent color but the texture however may be a bit much for an early build. I’ve been able to knock some of the texture down by gently rubbing/buffing the paint with a lint free towel at the point where the paint is almost dry. Experiment for yourself.

On the very early hand units we use Krylon Rust Tough semi-flat black #RTA9203 (surprisingly, very consistent production batches). On the later hand units (pre GR matte textured), Krylon Supermaxx (later changed to ColorMaster and now Fusion AIO) available in both satin-black and matte-black. The formulas can be off so really it boils down to personal preference and how it looks with your body color.

Thanks!

About the tenturns--Nicksdad's kit comes with a 0-10 version, whereas the early models were labeled 1-3.

Were there models produced with the 0-10 knob, red/green meter, black tape "trigger", and prismatic crispy?

That's the style I'm going for, given the parts I have on hand, but I'm not 100% sure any of the real models had that exact combination of details.

 

[TopgunTech2]

Did you get the tall knob with the silver disc still attached/embedded in the black plastic? The numbers come off with a Q-Tip and lacquer thinner, leave only 3-2-1. Zero-ten knobs were only on the post red/green battery meter going forward (with prismatic Mylar) until the GR variant that got cut down and chrome lined Mylar.

 

[Gregatron]

Did you get the tall knob with the silver disc still attached/embedded in the black plastic? The numbers come off with a Q-Tip and lacquer thinner, leave only 3-2-1. Zero-ten knobs were only on the post red/green battery meter going forward (with prismatic Mylar) until the GR variant that got cut down and chrome lined Mylar.

Yes, I was planning on removing the numbers, if that was indeed the case, thanks.

 

[Gregatron]

Test-fitting P1 elements. Assembled and drilled the hole for the the indicator/bezel.

Haven’t decided what to do about the thumbwheel, yet. I dunno if I want to go to the trouble of seeking out an original. I may just use one of the half-wheels I have (which came with both this kit and my previous build), or install a full-wheel replica that I have with an axel, so it at least rotates.

I also haven’t cut out the bottom of the P1 yet to accomodate the wiring. Feels almost sacrilegious to build a phaser with the P1 permanently attached!

 

[TopgunTech2]

Is there room inside for an original thumbwheel pot/switch? If so I can send you one. As to the P1 attachment you could always improvise, a button catch or similar. But they were epoxied shut, so folks wouldn't shock themselves and bugger up the circuit!

 

[Gregatron]

Is there room inside for an original thumbwheel pot/switch? If so I can send you one. As to the P1 attachment you could always improvise, a button catch or similar. But they were epoxied shut, so folks wouldn't shock themselves and bugger up the circuit!

I'd certainly appreciate a thumbwheel switch. If you also have an extra trigger switch, that would be swell, too. I'd be happy to pay for it. Otherwise, I'll make due with what I have.

And, even if the thumbwheel switch doesn't fit, I can ream out space with Ye Olde Dremel.

And it's probably a good idea not to get TOO permanent with the P1. Perhaps E6000, clear epoxy, or a magnet system mounted into the front end and the P2 tower.

 

[TopgunTech2]

Got you covered for parts. I like the magnet option for the hand unit attachment.

 

[Gregatron]

Got you covered for parts. I like the magnet option for the hand unit attachment.

View attachment 1856530

Thanks! Drop me a PM, and we'll make arrangements.

And, yes, I might just go the magnet route. A mid-range epoxy would probably be fine to secure the P1, but being able to pop the body open for repairs or whatever without damaging paint would be nice.

 

[Gregatron]

Drilled holes and glued magnets into the P1 halves. The magnets are flush to the front edge of the P1, but, in the photo below, there are extra magnets atop them to ensure alignment. Once the glue is cured, I’ll drill corresponding holes into the P2 forehead towers, and glue those extra magnets in while the p1 is in the saddle. I presume this should be enough, but I may also add a magnet to the rear of the P1.

 

[Gregatron]

…and, after drilling the appropriate holes in the P2 and adding a few dabs of glue, I seated and taped the P1 into place, so that the magnets with be glued in the proper positions.

I’ll let it cure overnight, and see how it turns out.

 

[Gregatron]

The magnet trick worked. Perfect alignment. However, the magnets aren’t strong enough to hold the P1 in when the pistol is, say, turned upside-down, for example. Which is what I figured, so I’ll be adding a tiny dab of glue to each magnet during final assembly.

That way, the P1 will stay properly aligned if it ever needs to removed and reinstalled, and any such removal will not damage any of the paintwork. The magnets will seat the P1 in place, and the tiny amount of glue will keep it in place.

Not that I imagine needing to open the prop up, but it’s nice to have the option, just in case any electronics or other parts need to be repaired or replaced.

 

[pengbuzz]

It recently came to my attention that the incomparable Nicksdad had done a run of replica Brad Nelson phaser kits, cast from an original. Having already built a static kit from another maker in the PHASE II style (no electronics, detachable handle, etc.), I still felt the urge to do a “convention”-style Nelson.

So, I acquired one of Nicksdad’s gorgeous kits, which arrived today. The kit also includes an electronics package to simulate (but not exactly replicate) one from a Nelson phaser. I still need to work out a battery setup. And I have a leftover trigger switch from my previous build, but it now looks like it may not be compatible with the Nicksdad aluminum trigger, since I had to trim the red trigger stem down a bit while working on the fit and action of the trigger. I may have to seek out another vintage trigger, or find a modern equivalent.

Anyway, I’ve already done some preliminary work—degreasing the resin parts, driling holes for the emitter and trigger, etc. Need to do some bodywork and test-fitting before any assembly.

I’m going for a later Version 1-style Nelson build—tall tenturn knob, red/green battery meter, prismatic crispy, etc. I have a leftover can of Rustoleum Textured Dark Pewter Gray, which looks to be a good match for the P2 body color. And I presume a semigloss black would be accurate for the P1.

I’m also wondering about how best to perform the joining of the trigger box to the handle. I believe the real Nelsons used epoxy.


Any tips, tricks, or accuracy details would be appreciated! Thanks!


View attachment 1855505

If you're using Rustoleum on resin, I have plenty of advice:

1) Degrease it twice; I had to give up on using Rustoleum on my projects after two of them failed due to the paint sloughing off of them. I had made sure it was not humid, the parts were well degreased (soaked in bleach and then washed, then rinsed in isopropyl alcohol), and the cans were at the appropriate temperature and shaken until my arms were numb.

Still sloughed off and never dried appropriately.

After cleaning the wreckage, I switched to Krylon primer and no issues at all.

2) Use Krylon.

3) Use KRYLON.

4) USE KRYLON.

5) get yourself a Coffee Coolatta.

 

[Gregatron]

If you're using Rustoleum on resin, I have plenty of advice:

1) Degrease it twice I had to give up on using Rustoleum on my projects after two of them failed due to the paint sloughing off of them. I had made sure it was not humid, the parts were well degreased, and the cans were at the appropriate temperature and shaken until my arms were numb.

Still sloughed off and never dried appropriately.

After cleaning the wreckage, I switched to Krylon primer and no issues at all.

2) Use Krylon.

3) Use KRYLON.

4) USE KRYLON.

5) get yourself a Coffee Coolatta.

Hmm. Thanks for the tips!

I've not had a problem like that, before. I'm nowhere near the painting (or even priming] stage, yet, so we'll see.

Might use adhesion promoter, too, just to be sure.

 

[Gregatron]

Doing some body work. Applied filler putty to the magnets to blend them in, as well as a few pinholes on the resin P1 and P2 bodies. I also added the first coat of filler primer to the aluminum handle, after some wet-sanding.

Once the handle is properly smoothed and primed, I’ll glue it into the P2 body. Just wondering how best to replicate the join-seam. On some BN phasers, there appears to be a firm seam line, and, on others, the epoxy glue used as a filler appears to blend the trigger box and the handle much more smoothly.

 

[Gregatron]

Sanded the magnet putty flush on both P1 and P2. Trimmed down the brass potentiometer rod that the tenturn slips onto, so that the tenturn sits at the right height. Eventually, I’ll have to seal the potentiometer inside the resin body, fill the seams, then prime and paint.

I also screwed up the bending of the aluminum P2 forehead tower clip, so I unbent it, traced it, and cut a new one out of sheet aluminum. It’s now bent to the proper shape, and just got a coat of matte clear, like the real Brad Nelson props.

The handle already looks good with a light coat of primer. I’ll give the seams a once-over with putty, then another, heavy coat of filler primer.


I also have the accurate thumbwheel and trigger switch on the way from TopgunTech2.


Here’s the current test-fit.