Brad Nelson phaser build

Batteries test okay with good voltage individually? Are you using the handle, aluminum cover, and long screw to conduct POS or NEG to the board? Brad's configuration supplies 3V POS via the handle, cover, and long screw to the circuit. On the other end pf the handle the battery contact springs provided the ground to the circuit. Also, does the very butt end of the handle have paint on it, enough to interrupt a good contact with the aluminum cover?

Yes, I’ve recharged and tested the batteries several times. In a previous test with just the raw positive/negative wires touching the batteries, I got proper lights/sound. After that, I began working to test-fit the circuit inside the P2 body, with springs acting as the contacts.

I was going with Nicksdad’s suggested configuration, with the two lithium-ion batteries stacked on one side of the handle, positive end contacting the inside of the aluminum handle buttplate. On the other side, the negative wire is connected to a spring which also makes contact with the buttplate, thus using the the plate itself to complete the circuit.

As noted, however, a number of wires came loose from the board due to all the handling, and had to be resoldered. I wonder if that has something to do with the current problem. Because, when I took it back to just touching the pos/neg wires to the ends of the batteries, I got nothing.

And, yes, I should probably give the edge of the handle a good sanding, just to make sure that the buttplate makes contact.
 
Okay, so you've got proper voltage coming out of your handle/battery setup. And now nothing powering the board directly without the switch. Btw, what batteries/voltage are you using? Let's see a close up of the front and rear of the board. Your contact spring (NEG) should be isolated from the POS side of your handle/buttplate/long screw.
 
Nicksdad was kind enough to provide a sketch of his preferred setup (which I was working to emulate), with the positive spring in the front of the handle, and the negative (and the two Dragonfire 10440 3.7v rechargable batteries) in the rear.

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And here’s the board in its current state. The negative for the P1 speaker/LED and the positive to the batteries (both circled in red) came loose and had to be resoldered. It should be noted that I resoldered the positive wire to the underside of the board, to avoid extra stress on it when snaking it into the handle.

Should’ve remembered to hit the board with some low-temp hot glue to avoid wires coming loose. Ah, well.

IMG_7482.jpeg
IMG_7483.jpeg
 
Yes, correct. Looking to see if power is broken here. Tough to tell by the photo and glare from the flux. This feeds voltage to the LEDs, speaker, and pin 14 of the IC which turns it on. Alternatively, check the ground side as well where it connects to the small 2.2uf cap.
 
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