Brad Nelson phaser build

[Gregatron]

Batteries test okay with good voltage individually? Are you using the handle, aluminum cover, and long screw to conduct POS or NEG to the board? Brad's configuration supplies 3V POS via the handle, cover, and long screw to the circuit. On the other end pf the handle the battery contact springs provided the ground to the circuit. Also, does the very butt end of the handle have paint on it, enough to interrupt a good contact with the aluminum cover?

Yes, I’ve recharged and tested the batteries several times. In a previous test with just the raw positive/negative wires touching the batteries, I got proper lights/sound. After that, I began working to test-fit the circuit inside the P2 body, with springs acting as the contacts.

I was going with Nicksdad’s suggested configuration, with the two lithium-ion batteries stacked on one side of the handle, positive end contacting the inside of the aluminum handle buttplate. On the other side, the negative wire is connected to a spring which also makes contact with the buttplate, thus using the the plate itself to complete the circuit.

As noted, however, a number of wires came loose from the board due to all the handling, and had to be resoldered. I wonder if that has something to do with the current problem. Because, when I took it back to just touching the pos/neg wires to the ends of the batteries, I got nothing.

And, yes, I should probably give the edge of the handle a good sanding, just to make sure that the buttplate makes contact.

 

[TopgunTech2]

Okay, so you've got proper voltage coming out of your handle/battery setup. And now nothing powering the board directly without the switch. Btw, what batteries/voltage are you using? Let's see a close up of the front and rear of the board. Your contact spring (NEG) should be isolated from the POS side of your handle/buttplate/long screw.

 

[Gregatron]

Nicksdad was kind enough to provide a sketch of his preferred setup (which I was working to emulate), with the positive spring in the front of the handle, and the negative (and the two Dragonfire 10440 3.7v rechargable batteries) in the rear.

And here’s the board in its current state. The negative for the P1 speaker/LED and the positive to the batteries (both circled in red) came loose and had to be resoldered. It should be noted that I resoldered the positive wire to the underside of the board, to avoid extra stress on it when snaking it into the handle.

Should’ve remembered to hit the board with some low-temp hot glue to avoid wires coming loose. Ah, well.

 

[TopgunTech2]

Any solder bridging these 3 spots?

 

[Gregatron]

Any solder bridging these 3 spots?

View attachment 1863481

Shouldn’t there be? Because there is, since that would send power to the LEDs and the speakers. I should probably double-check, though. Maybe the resolder job caused a loose connection.

That said, the multimeter still indicated a complete circuit when the full circuit was assembled. Huh.

 

[TopgunTech2]

Yes, correct. Looking to see if power is broken here. Tough to tell by the photo and glare from the flux. This feeds voltage to the LEDs, speaker, and pin 14 of the IC which turns it on. Alternatively, check the ground side as well where it connects to the small 2.2uf cap.

 

[Mr. E Man]

Are these Nicksdad Brad Nelson Phaser kits still available? I would be interested in getting one.


E

 

[Gregatron]

Getting back on this. I acquired a second electronics kit, since my efforts to repair the first one were unsuccessful.

I’m now working on 3D modeling a battery holder (with contacts in both ends) which will slide into the handle, and sidestep using the aluminum handle buttplate to complete the circuit.

Just need to refine the measurements/details and get it printed, and then maybe I can FINALLY get into final painting and assembly.

 

[Gregatron]

After much measuring and modeling, I had an ABS battery holder 3D printed. I then cut down battery contacts to fit into the endcaps.

Everything is fitting well, so far. Looks like this build can finally proceed.

 

[Reel Fakes]

Nicely done!

 

[Gregatron]

Installed the potentiometer into the rear of the P2, then sealed it in. Been working on filling and sanding the body seam on the rear deck of the P2.

I also simulated the epoxy glue joint between the P2 body’s trigger box and the handle with Apoxie Sculpt. Once cured, I’ll apply filler putty, sand and adjust the shape of the blend, then apply filler primer.

After the bodywork is done, I can finally spray the pewter gray P2 base color, then begin the process of getting the electronics properly soldered and installed.

I’ve held off applying the prismatic tape to the top of the P1, since I dunno if sound venting holes will be needed, yet. That’ll probably be the last thing I do, during final assembly.



Here’s a test assembly, as the Apoxie Sculpt cures.

 

[Gregatron]

Got the trigger box blend looking good. Gave the P2 body two coats of Rustoleum Textured Pewter Gray, which is a reasonably good rattlecan match for the originals. Once fully cured, I’ll buff the paint to remove the grainy texture and give it that semigloss sheen of the early Nelson phasers.

After that, it’s on to painting the rear P2 fins, and then we can finally start getting into installing the electronics.

 

[Gregatron]

Buffed the P2 body to knock down the textured paint. I’m pleased with the sheen and the color, and I also just finished masking and spraying the rear P2 ribs the proper aluminum color.

 

[Gregatron]

Another test-fit of the parts. The paint has a nice sheen, now. Might buff it a bit more.

I'll wait until the electronics are installed before gluing the various metal parts onto the P2.

 

[TopgunTech2]

Fantastic! I can't imagine making 430 of these. Oh, and the printed battery compartment is an excellent upgrade... Nice job on that one!

 

[Gregatron]

Fantastic! I can't imagine making 430 of these. Oh, and the printed battery compartment is an excellent upgrade... Nice job on that one!

A necessary step. After all the hassle with the first electronics set, I wanted as foolproof a setup as possible to ensure battery contact and also avoid lots of test-fitting, which would strain the solder joints.

 

[Gregatron]

Finished buffing the paint. After applying the textured vinyl piece to the P2 window, I proceeded to glue the aluminum forehead plate to the tower, and cut a small triangle of aluminum to place in front of the rear tenturn knob.

The next step will be beginning the electronics installation. Soldering the battery contacts to their wires, fitting the battery holder into the body, then working on soldering the connections and getting the trigger button mounted.

I also need to add a spacer into the the aluminum trigger’s hole to allow the button to depress properly.

 

[Gregatron]

Assembly has begun. I’ve started making the necessary solder connections, and have installed the battery contacts into the 3D-printed endcaps of the battery holder. Everything is fitting perfectly.

I also stuck a ball of Apoxie Sculpt into the aluminum trigger, so as to allow the trigger button to function when the aluminum trigger is glued on.

I’m gonna let everything cure for awhile, and then the next step will be soldering the positive wire from the battery holder’s contact to the trigger, the negative wire on the board to the negative battery contact’s wire, and seating the circuit into the P2 body.


I’m taking a leap of faith, here, since I haven’t actually tested this second, replacement set of electronics from Nicksdad. But, since I’ve barely touched it, there’s no reason it shouldn’t work once everything is installed.

The only other thing I’m worried about at this point is making sure that the trigger button is properly installed in the trigger box so that the aluminum trigger part sits correctly and has enough room to move properly when the trigger is pressed.

We’re finally approaching the finish line. I’m gonna be very, VERY annoyed if this thing doesn’t work when I get everything installed.

 

[Gregatron]

SUCCESS!!!!!!!

I finished making the final solder connections, popped in the batteries, and pressed the trigger button.

Lights and sound! At last!


Now, all that remains is to fit the board and wiring into the P2 body, install the speaker and LED into the P1, install the trigger assembly, attach the tenturn, and glue on the metal parts.

 

[Gregatron]

Okay, I gently fitted the board into the P2, and snaked the trigger button and emitter LED through the appropriate holes.

As I suspected, a quick test revealed that the P1 shell is too thick to allow the sound effect to be heard loud and clear. Fortunately, I held off applying the prismatic tape just for that reason, and have now drilled sound-venting holes into the top surface of the P1.

I also glued in the P1 speaker and indicator LED, isolated the power meter with electrical tape, and covered the bottom of the LED with Tulip Slick fabric paint, which will light-block the power meter and allow only the acrylic indicator to light up.

Finally, I gave the metal parts a quick polish, and enlarged the hole in the rear of the acrylic P2 emitter to accommodate the LED.

I’ll let everything sit overnight before continuing.