Brad Nelson phaser build

[TopgunTech2]

With all the Nelsons I've owned or had pass across my bench, I can say I've never seen 2 handle seams match between the tubes and connected to the body. Some were not as refined as others and it boiled down to how busy he was making phasers. Hand made one-at-a-time. Personally, I can't imagine making a dozen of them let alone 430!

 

[Gregatron]

With all the Nelsons I've owned or had pass across my bench, I can say I've never seen 2 handle seams match between the tubes and connected to the body. Some were not as refined as others and it boiled down to how busy he was making phasers. Hand made one-at-a-time. Personally, I can't imagine making a dozen of them let alone 430!

Yeah, I'm just gonna collect reference images of originals and go with a look I like.

 

[Gregatron]

Cut out the slot for the thumbwheel and gave the P1 a shot of primer.

Yes, Rustoleum. We’ll see how it sticks.

I also cut out the tiny tenturn indicator triangle from sheet aluminum, which was not included in the kit. Went with steeper sides on the triangle than on my PHASE II build, as per images of early Nelson phasers.

 

[Gregatron]

Received the accurate thumbwheel and trigger switch from TopgunTech2.

Gave the P1 and handle some more putty treatments, and another coat of filler primer. Despite Pengbuzz’s concerns’s there’s been no problem with adhesion, so far.

At Nicksdad’s recommendation, I also ordered a set of rechargeable batteries w/charger, and some compression springs for them, along with the recommended P1 semi-flat black paint.

Once that all arrives, I can finally work on the electronics. Nicksdad says he set things up so that the batteries stack atop each other on one side of the handle. Once I have everything in hand, I’ll see what’s feasible with the different sizes of springs I ordered.

 

[Gregatron]

Well, I Dremeled out the underside of the P1 to create an opening for the wire connections and whatnot, as with a real Brad Nelson phaser. The remaining P1 underside “frame” has now been epoxied to the topside. I can then proceed with finishing and painting the P1 as a single unit. And, since that giant hole is now on the bottom, the parts which mount from inside (thumbwheel, power meter, electronics speaker, indicator LED) can be dropped in at the very end of the build.

I also carved out the resin next to the thumbwheel slot on the inside of the upper P1, then laid down some Apoxie Sculpt in the cavity. The thumbwheel mount was then carefully pressed into the putty to make an impression. That way, when the thumbwheel is glued in, it’ll have a mounting surface pre-molded to its shape, to ensure proper alignment.

 

[Gregatron]

Now that the Apoxie Sculpt has had time to cure, here’s a test-fit of the thumbwheel, taped into place from the inside.

Once the batteries arrive in a few days, I can test the electronics, then seal the potentiometer inside the P2 and prime that assembly.

 

[Captain Dunsel]

Now that the Apoxie Sculpt has had time to cure, here’s a test-fit of the thumbwheel, taped into place from the inside.

Once the batteries arrive in a few days, I can test the electronics, then seal the potentiometer inside the P2 and prime that assembly.

View attachment 1858614

Looks outstanding!

 

[Gregatron]

While the upper rear deck of the P2 does not yet have the potentiometer sealed inside, I still masked off the P2 body’s mating surfaces, and gave it a shot of filler primer. That way, I can take care of any pinholes or other issues before installing the potentiometer.

I also did a little body work on the P1, and gave both it and the handle another shot of filler primer. Once I get the electronics tested, I can epoxy the handle to the P2 and work on puttying the joint.

Coming right along. Testing the electronics and making sure everything will fit and work properly is the only big hurdle remaining. Once that’s in the bag, this build should go together pretty quickly.

 

[Gregatron]

Now that the primer has dried, here’s a test-fit. Starting to look like a proper phaser!

 

[Gregatron]

Painted the P1 with the recommended semi-flat black. Once it’s properly cured, I’ll give it a look to see it it needs has any imperfections fixed and/or needs another coat.

I’ll wait to attach the prismatic tape, since I want to test the electronics first, and see whether or not the top of the P1 will need holes for sound venting.

 

[Gregatron]

All parts except for the prismatic tape have been installed. The thumbwheel was tacked in place with JB Quik, then potted in with full JB Weld, which will cure overnight. The meter and indicator/bezel were clear-epoxied in.

The textured tape “trigger” was placed based on photos of original BN phasers, and the prismatic tape will be aligned right up against it when the time comes.

The aluminum side strips could use a little masking and extra polishing once they’re fully glued on.

The P1 is essentially done, though. The next step will be testing the electronics and working out the battery placement. When that’s done, the speaker and LED can be installed through the hole in the bottom of the P1.

 

[Gregatron]

Masked, sanded and polished the side rails.

Had a bit of a setback—the thumbwheel actually came loose from its mount, somehow. Fortunately, the epoxy inside the P1 shell hadn’t fully cured, so I was able to remove the whole thumbwheel assembly, disassemble it, and epoxy the wheel back on. Once that’s cured, I’ll re-epoxy the assembly back into the shell.

 

[Gregatron]

Thumbwheel reinstalled. Coming right along.

 

[Gregatron]

Test-fitting with the unsoldered electronics and uncharged batteries.

Looks like the easiest way to do this will be to stack the two batteries atop each other on one side of the handle, with a small compression spring glued to the inside of the handle buttplate to hold them against the upper spring that’s mounted to the circuit board.

There’s already enough room to run the trigger wires into the P2 body, so I may not have to cut away the top of the aluminum handle to accomodate the trigger switch.

 

[Gregatron]

I did end up cutting away the front of the top section of the handle that sits inside the trigger box, just to avoid any space issues with installing the trigger switch. I also epoxied the handle inside the trigger box. Once that’s cured, I can address the blend of the handle and the box.

I also laid down some Apoxie Sculpt into the cavity of the P2 rear deck, then stuck the potentiometer (which the tenturn sits atop) down into it. The resulting impression will ensure proper alignment for the potentiometer, since it’ll end up sealed inside the resin P2 body.

Once this bodywork is all cured, the next step is soldering and testing the electronics. Once that’s done, final body/paintwork on the P2 can proceed, followed by final assembly.

 

[Gregatron]

A bit under the weather, which has slowed my progress. I attempted to solder the electronics kit provided by Nicksdad together, but it didn’t work when tested the batteries. I’m probably missing something very simple, and perhaps it’ll make more sense once I’m feeling better.

It should be very simple: black/ground wire connects to trigger switch, while red/positive and the other trigger wire connects to the battery contact PCB. And yet, nothing.

Anyone else who’s put one of these great kits together, feel free to chime in!

 

[TopgunTech2]

Trigger switch interrupts ground, one switch leg to the negative battery terminal and the other leg to the board's black ground wire. Board red wire directly to the positive battery terminal. This circuit was designed to run on 9 volts but IIRC it'll still work on as little as 6 volts.

 

[Gregatron]

Trigger switch interrupts ground, one switch leg to the negative battery terminal and the other leg to the board's black ground wire. Board red wire directly to the positive battery terminal. This circuit was designed to run on 9 volts but IIRC it'll still work on as little as 6 volts.

It's been a struggle. I'm by no means an electronics expert, but I do have some experience. I've tested the circuit a number of times with the multimeter, and have consistently gotten a 0.00 resistance rating.

I DID successfully get lights/sound during a previous test after the trigger switch was soldered into the circuit, but, when the assembly was actually installed into the P2 body, nothing.

I'm attempting Nicksdad's solution of using the aluminum handle buttplate itself to complete the circuit, but something must not be making contact when the parts are all in place.

I did have to resolder a few wires which came loose from handling, too. Hope I didn't screw something up.

And, as of the last test, I couldn't get anything to work. I may have to dive in and replace all the wiring, step by step.

 

[Gregatron]

…well, I’m baffled. The multimeter indicates a complete circuit when the trigger is pressed, and yet I get nothing when the batteries are connected. I dunno if a component has failed, or if something is failing to make proper contact.

 

[TopgunTech2]

Batteries test okay with good voltage individually? Are you using the handle, aluminum cover, and long screw to conduct POS or NEG to the board? Brad's configuration supplies 3V POS via the handle, cover, and long screw to the circuit. On the other end pf the handle the battery contact springs provided the ground to the circuit. Also, does the very butt end of the handle have paint on it, enough to interrupt a good contact with the aluminum cover?