epilepticsquirl
Sr Member
ya did? Lemme check my messages, I hope I didn't delete it by accident. I've been known to fubar things like that. :lol
Spiderman web shooter: A collaborative project.
- Thread starter epilepticsquirl
- Start date
xl97
Master Member
hahaha.. yeah.. 2 now I think! (I was hoping you werent starting to think I was stalking you!)
1.) was to (offer) to send you 1 of the boards to test and give some feedback (just needed address in good ol FL.)
2.) second was to hopefully ask a favor, about getting a 'modification' to one of the pieces of your 3D printed 'kit' (the bottom solid piece)
I was curious as to how hard it would be to tweak the file to make a new/alternate one (it would help people having to hack up their parts if it was modified a bit..and being the bottom piece.. shouldnt mess up anyones current projects..)
in the bottom piece.. could you add a 'pocket' (not sure how to describe it).. that it the same size/shape as the PCB (bezel inside)..not all the way through.. just a 0.3 'dip/pocket' for the microSD card socket to 'sit/hang' in.. so people dont have to exacto things up!
I DIY'd mine.. but figured it would be a nice choice for those who want things still nice and pretty like when they came form shapeways!
*(but in a perfect world.. the bezel piece could get some edits too to help with the pcb/internals!)
I have 2 x sound version ready to go..
1.) one has VERY (very) slim/flat green leds on the top.. and the other has some taller ones.. (the clear part that goes in the windows/slots over the green leds doesnt fit with the pcb and leds there.. maybe some sanding?)
2.) the second w/sound pcb I mad.. has the reds mis-placed! has 1 @ 12:00 and the others @ 3:00 & 9:00... instead of the correct placement which should be: 12:00, 4:00 & 8:00 positions..
Just about to make my JY INT thread into a SALES thread.. and get the first round out.. and order more pcbs for the second round/batch..
(you see the JY thread?)
anyways.. thanks!
let me know if you want give it a review for me!.. and also about the possible model edit/variation.
thanks!
1.) was to (offer) to send you 1 of the boards to test and give some feedback (just needed address in good ol FL.)
2.) second was to hopefully ask a favor, about getting a 'modification' to one of the pieces of your 3D printed 'kit' (the bottom solid piece)
I was curious as to how hard it would be to tweak the file to make a new/alternate one (it would help people having to hack up their parts if it was modified a bit..and being the bottom piece.. shouldnt mess up anyones current projects..)
in the bottom piece.. could you add a 'pocket' (not sure how to describe it).. that it the same size/shape as the PCB (bezel inside)..not all the way through.. just a 0.3 'dip/pocket' for the microSD card socket to 'sit/hang' in.. so people dont have to exacto things up!
I DIY'd mine.. but figured it would be a nice choice for those who want things still nice and pretty like when they came form shapeways!
*(but in a perfect world.. the bezel piece could get some edits too to help with the pcb/internals!)
I have 2 x sound version ready to go..
1.) one has VERY (very) slim/flat green leds on the top.. and the other has some taller ones.. (the clear part that goes in the windows/slots over the green leds doesnt fit with the pcb and leds there.. maybe some sanding?)
2.) the second w/sound pcb I mad.. has the reds mis-placed! has 1 @ 12:00 and the others @ 3:00 & 9:00... instead of the correct placement which should be: 12:00, 4:00 & 8:00 positions..
Just about to make my JY INT thread into a SALES thread.. and get the first round out.. and order more pcbs for the second round/batch..
(you see the JY thread?)
anyways.. thanks!
let me know if you want give it a review for me!.. and also about the possible model edit/variation.
thanks!
epilepticsquirl
Sr Member
ah I found one of em. It was between a "How much will you charge me for a shooter" and "Tell me how to build a shooter" PM. :lol
PM reply incoming
PM reply incoming
AlexGordon
Active Member
I'd love mirrored + accurate FPC switches (especially if they could have the rubber boot buttons).
I'll probably hold off on the first batch until two identical ones are available. Can the PCB's just be spun for each shooter or do they have to be mirrored?
I'll probably hold off on the first batch until two identical ones are available. Can the PCB's just be spun for each shooter or do they have to be mirrored?
xl97
Master Member
the pcb's will fit 'as is' in under each bezel...
they have no 'specific' direction/orientation..
that being said.. on one of them.. you will need to make the switch wires/leads a bit longer..
the switch pads are on one side of the pcb (bottom).. and when on the 'left' hand.. you'll need maybe an extra 0.5-1.0 inch extra length or so..
so the FPC will have 'two' different (yet very much the same) circuits to use..
the FPC's would be about $7.00 each or so.. (w/o shipping costs added in.. from china.. or to the end user)
we could add/use our own rubber booted switches if you find some you like..
its a PCB.. same as any other.. (just flexible)
connecting the FCP to the PCB will be a challenge.. it wasnt designed for FCP soldering.. just twp solder pads.. (somewhat spaced apart too)..
Im thinking some jumper wire from the pads to the fpc... will be needed or some other solution..
Also.. I am sending a SOUND enabled version to ES for him to test and post back on..
they have no 'specific' direction/orientation..
that being said.. on one of them.. you will need to make the switch wires/leads a bit longer..
the switch pads are on one side of the pcb (bottom).. and when on the 'left' hand.. you'll need maybe an extra 0.5-1.0 inch extra length or so..
so the FPC will have 'two' different (yet very much the same) circuits to use..
the FPC's would be about $7.00 each or so.. (w/o shipping costs added in.. from china.. or to the end user)
we could add/use our own rubber booted switches if you find some you like..
its a PCB.. same as any other.. (just flexible)
connecting the FCP to the PCB will be a challenge.. it wasnt designed for FCP soldering.. just twp solder pads.. (somewhat spaced apart too)..
Im thinking some jumper wire from the pads to the fpc... will be needed or some other solution..
Also.. I am sending a SOUND enabled version to ES for him to test and post back on..
AlexGordon
Active Member
gotcha. If we could get the boot switches to work without looking "off" I'd be down for doing that. Jumper wires were what I assumed as well, just running them under the leather strap.
xl97
Master Member
really.. the FPC will go as far as it 'can'..
but since the solder pads are a bit 'spaced' (check the pic).. we'd either need to somehow design for the FPC 'pads' to meet as close as possible.. or just use some simple jumper wire...
really I have no experience with FPC.. I happened to look at ordering another batch of the PCB's for these webshooters.. and noticed the same place now offers FPC!
my first priority is get these pcb's done and out the door though to be honest..
I have enough to do about 10 or so.... once I get a few more done.. the new pcb's should be here.. (as well as other missing more leds, more ATmega328P-AU chips..etc..)
I did first round of sanding on the bottom piece after priming.. was still a bit 'tacky' though...
I need to give another shot of primer (think I prefer the krylon primer over this rustoleum junk).. I'll post a pic then..
Also.. I heard back from ES.. we might have a new 'base' to order from shapeways!.. this will save a TON of trouble with an exacto knife.. and just drop the pcb in with minimal effort/modification.
whats next on the prop list?
I need a new challenge for making electronics!
but since the solder pads are a bit 'spaced' (check the pic).. we'd either need to somehow design for the FPC 'pads' to meet as close as possible.. or just use some simple jumper wire...
really I have no experience with FPC.. I happened to look at ordering another batch of the PCB's for these webshooters.. and noticed the same place now offers FPC!
my first priority is get these pcb's done and out the door though to be honest..
I have enough to do about 10 or so.... once I get a few more done.. the new pcb's should be here.. (as well as other missing more leds, more ATmega328P-AU chips..etc..)
I did first round of sanding on the bottom piece after priming.. was still a bit 'tacky' though...
I need to give another shot of primer (think I prefer the krylon primer over this rustoleum junk).. I'll post a pic then..
Also.. I heard back from ES.. we might have a new 'base' to order from shapeways!.. this will save a TON of trouble with an exacto knife.. and just drop the pcb in with minimal effort/modification.
whats next on the prop list?
I need a new challenge for making electronics!
AlexGordon
Active Member
it's probably easist to just use jumper wire, especially since one fpc would have to go further than the other. just so long as they function and look the part, I don't think it's a big deal to use jumper wire.
I'm nearly ready to build my shooters so be sure to keep us posted availability of your pcbs. my leather straps should be done pretty soon (if not already) and I'll show the off once I get some pictures or the finished product. the best part is the shop I commissioned them from will have them as a product, so if anyone here wants a set, all they have to do is measure their wrist and order from the site.
I'm nearly ready to build my shooters so be sure to keep us posted availability of your pcbs. my leather straps should be done pretty soon (if not already) and I'll show the off once I get some pictures or the finished product. the best part is the shop I commissioned them from will have them as a product, so if anyone here wants a set, all they have to do is measure their wrist and order from the site.
xl97
Master Member
Id 'really' hold off if you are planning a SOUND version...
the bottom piece/plate needs EXTREME modding .... just a 'cut-out'.. but its needs to be precise... needs to be 'small' enough to not let PCB fall through.. but big enough to let all components on bottom 'hang down'.. (and they go 'very' close to the edge in some areas)
I'll do an 'inventory check' to see how much of each part I have...
I have 'different' green leds..since I wanted to experiment with the color/brightness and height..
the clear slotted 'window' piece that goes into the bezel where the green leds go is a 'concern'..
I think they'll need to be cut off and glued in place in the end..
since it was modeled without any space.. and not we have a PCB thickness (0.8").. and super flat SMD smds..but still they take up some room
(Im actually surprised how flat the green SMD leds are.. they are almost paper thin!)
the w/o sound guys are going to have it much easier IMHO.. maybe a couple 'holes' or some scrapping away to let a few components hang...
I'll see if I can make a set to get out to you as well...
the bottom piece/plate needs EXTREME modding .... just a 'cut-out'.. but its needs to be precise... needs to be 'small' enough to not let PCB fall through.. but big enough to let all components on bottom 'hang down'.. (and they go 'very' close to the edge in some areas)
I'll do an 'inventory check' to see how much of each part I have...
I have 'different' green leds..since I wanted to experiment with the color/brightness and height..
the clear slotted 'window' piece that goes into the bezel where the green leds go is a 'concern'..
I think they'll need to be cut off and glued in place in the end..
since it was modeled without any space.. and not we have a PCB thickness (0.8").. and super flat SMD smds..but still they take up some room
(Im actually surprised how flat the green SMD leds are.. they are almost paper thin!)
the w/o sound guys are going to have it much easier IMHO.. maybe a couple 'holes' or some scrapping away to let a few components hang...
I'll see if I can make a set to get out to you as well...
AlexGordon
Active Member
well, I can easily handle the exacto knife stuff. I'm something of a pro after pepping a full master chief costume. however, if the new base and led windows wind up getting done and working well, I may order then. I'm in no real rush, but I am ready to go when everything is in place with this.
xl97
Master Member
you should be able to use your lathe and mill to mod the base.. although make sure you sure everythign really good.. and pad the base so there is no flex..
lathe out the center to the OD it needs to be .90+ off top of my head..
and then mill out the square base/pocket for the leds portion of the pcb...
- - - Updated - - -
you should be able to use your lathe and mill to mod the base.. although make sure you sure everythign really good.. and pad the base so there is no flex..
lathe out the center to the OD it needs to be .90+ off top of my head..
and then mill out the square base/pocket for the leds portion of the pcb...
lathe out the center to the OD it needs to be .90+ off top of my head..
and then mill out the square base/pocket for the leds portion of the pcb...
- - - Updated - - -
you should be able to use your lathe and mill to mod the base.. although make sure you sure everythign really good.. and pad the base so there is no flex..
lathe out the center to the OD it needs to be .90+ off top of my head..
and then mill out the square base/pocket for the leds portion of the pcb...
AlexGordon
Active Member
I thought that this material didn't machine well? plus I bet there would be a ton of flex, but hey, I'm willing to give it a shot. I could probably even do it all on the mill with my new boring head.
xl97
Master Member
I dont have a boring head.. so maybe?
I didnt really have the 'gap/space' under it secured when I put it on the lathe.... and didnt realize the flex until after.
anyways.. for everyone else..
the JunkYard thread has been updated with the final updates before making it a 'sales' thread.
any feedback ya got is appreciated!
thanks!
I didnt really have the 'gap/space' under it secured when I put it on the lathe.... and didnt realize the flex until after.
anyways.. for everyone else..
the JunkYard thread has been updated with the final updates before making it a 'sales' thread.
any feedback ya got is appreciated!
thanks!
sshastings114
New Member
Is it just me? I can't seem to find the links for the webshooters <_<
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