Spiderman web shooter: A collaborative project.

got my shooter (singular) today..... (finally!) :)

already made some headway on the PCB design...

confirmed a no sound pcb would be easy/doable..... and would only need the input of how/what you guys want use for switches.. I can put two generic 'pads' somewhere and you can solder whatever you like.. or we can think of some custom solution..etc


re: audio..

I rotated the uSD socket a bit.. to make it not interfere with the 'post'.. (they are quite the pain!... well only because this a retro fit though)

I have bee playing with the idea of only using 2 of the posts.. and cutting the other two off.. so I dont have to make drill holes in the PCB to accommodate for them.. and hence have a bit more space....thoughts?

this is a FUN challenge for me!.. I think we're close!..



***NOTE: need some help in brain-storming here guys..

since there is nothing on TOP of the PCB.. (except the main 'chip'.. and the LEDs)...

there is no room to mount any 'red' leds to light up the MAIN chip/red bingo chip....



**Status of current PCB design:

schematic layout is 80% done.. (changing as we go along to accommodate for pads/led..etc)
pcb design is about 70% complete..
drill holes and layout figured out..
ID/OD of the model (and hence pcb size) figured out.
test prints of pcb size and led alignment and chip position = done/good!



(top)
TASM_webshooter_pcb_v2.1.jpg


(bottom) - gives better idea of size/angle of the SD card and space when inserted and ejected..etc
TASM_webshooter_pcb_v2.1b.jpg



things let to 'hash out'

1.) power input pads
2.) final placement of components (caps/resistors)
3.) give thought to how to flash bootload (pre-flashed? on-board ICSP pads?)
4.) give thought to how to upload sketches after assembly/future (on-board serial pads?)
5.) discuss how to we want to go about illuminating the top 'red' center?


when I get home form work.. I'll post some pics of the print outs.. the speaker I found..uSD socket..etc..
so e can have a visual on how things we come together..


thanks!
 
do what? design a PCB for it?

thats the fun part here.. everyone is pitching in.. so the people that know this junk can work on this.. and ES provided the 3D work/models..etc..

I took some pics of some (fake) mock-ups with uSD socket, PCB and main chip.. for thickness measurements..etc.. tests...etc..

posting them up now. :)
 
ok.. here is the stuff/components "I" am planning on using/testing with for this.. :)

ideas/suggestions on how to improve always welcome!

some pics of the speaker/uSD socket I plan on using:

TASM_webshooter_pics-005.jpg


TASM_webshooter_pics-006.jpg


overview of all 'parts' laid out.. (fake) pcb in the 'housing' with SD socket and main 'chip' on top for testing/mock-up

TASM_webshooter_pics-007.jpg


TASM_webshooter_pics-008.jpg




main 'housing/faceplate' (bezel).. with a printed out outline of the PCB.. (for test fitting the post alignment/drill hole placement..and overall size/fitment)... along with the SMD leds to go in the 'windows'

TASM_webshooter_pics-009.jpg


view of 'pcb/main chip/SD socket 'installed'..from BOTTOM

TASM_webshooter_pics-010.jpg


TASM_webshooter_pics-011.jpg



view from side.. to see how 'tall' the bezel is with chip/pcb/uSD socket.. (guesstimating about how much will need to be cut from the 'bottom' 3D printed part.....results = not much.. simple outline cut all the way through will more than enough.. thickness doesnt really go all the way through)

TASM_webshooter_pics-012.jpg




front/top view:

TASM_webshooter_pics-013.jpg




sorry for the crappy/grainy pics!!

thanks!!
 
Although i don't fully understand what's going on in these pics its looking pretty awesome. xl97 do you have an estimated cost worked out?
 
as far as what? :) hardware?

above is mostly mocking up the resources/parts to to clearance/space fit checks..etc..

once I get my personal one worked out..I'll post whatever files people need.. (community project and all)...

that being said.. Im not sure how many people can really take advantage of it..

* soldering SMD components
* re-flow/toaster oven
* optional solder stencil
etc..etc..

parts.. and what not are 'NOT' that expensive IMO..

rough break down:

* PCBS = 10 x $15.00 (+$5.00 if we go red/blue pcb)
* solder stencil = $30.00
* main chip = $4.00 ea.
* sd socket = $2.00
* smd leds green (0603 package) (total 5 needed) = ? ($1-3 bucks..not sure.. maybe ebay in bulk or digikey..etc)
* smd leds red (0603 package) (total 3 needed??) = ? ($1-3 bucks..not sure.. maybe ebay in bulk or digikey..etc)
* misc caps & resistors = ($1-3 bucks..not sure.. maybe ebay in bulk or digikey..etc)


I think thats roughly it as far as hardware..

basic minimal Arduino circuit..and SD card with some LEDS...

not 'too' much going on.. just TINY!!..

can maybe 'kit' up parts.. if fully assembled would cost more though of course. :)

but we're not there yet..


we have even figured out how to light up the red inner circle yet.. :)
 
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Cool i was just curious you know i bought a toy Web shooter and took the sound board out cost me ten bucks for each hand got everything pre made... I still have to fix it up with LED s
 
hhhhmmmmm im going to SDCC and im going as peter and spidey and im going to do the peter parker design the problem is making them light up when im on the full costume should i make them light up or not
 
@jolive -

Im not saying this is perfect/or the best (only) way to do this.. :)


I just love super hero stuff, love props. happen to see the main chip people were using for the shooter.. and it happened to be the same chip used int he Arduino (SMD version)..

figured it would be a great challenge...


I'd like to see pics of the toy shooter and the pcb it uses.. is it small enough to work with this models? :)
 
Hi guys! I'm waiting for my shapeways parts, i finally ordered them :D
Can i ask you something?
When you say "i have to sand it before painting"...what does it mean "sand it"?
Sorry, i'm italian and i'm following this thread by months, but i didn't understand what i'll have to do when i'll have to paint every parts :)
BTW i'll post pictures when parts arrive...i think that i have to wait a little bit...but i'll surely post them!
Best regards
 
hi-

IMHO.. the parts that come from 3D printing (Shapeways).. has a bit of a 'texture' on it...

its not 'perfectly' smooth...
so on most parts.. some very LIGHT coats of primer, and some sandpaper of very high grit would probably help seal and smooth that out before painting.
 
Now, i registered to sparkfun in order to get the chip and leds.
Just wanted to ask a council from some of you...what leds should i buy?
If you can provide sparkfun link it would be really appreciated.
So when shapeways will ship the parts i'll have leds and chip aswell :) :)
i'm buying a reed switch to make the circuit, am i doing well?
Thanks in advance!
 
hi Aracno800-

Im not sure what exactly your 'goal' is to be honest!..

if you are going to try and make your own 'circuit' (internals)..

the main chip you are buying will only be for 'looks'..

-unless-.. you know now to make/build an Arduino circuit with it.. (PCB..etc..etc)


but if you 'are' going for your own custom build..

then I think you are 'fine' and on the right track..

you will definitely need some resistors as well....however, just making the leds light up shouldnt be too hard and pretty straight forward.
 
hi xl97
yeah i didn't make myself clear, sorry.
btw yes, the chip is just for look :)
while i need the reed switch to open and close the circuit.
 
IMHO.. thats correct then! :)

you'll also need a magnet glued/secured to the end of the 'part' opposite the nozzle/shooter piece..

(so you can actually open/close the reed switch) :)


*and dont forget your resistors!! ;)
 
IMHO.. thats correct then! :)

you'll also need a magnet glued/secured to the end of the 'part' opposite the nozzle/shooter piece..

(so you can actually open/close the reed switch) :)


*and dont forget your resistors!! ;)

Mhm do you mean putting a magnet into the fluid cartridge?
So that when i put the cartridge in its slot, the green leds turn on? :)
What kind of resistor?
Why do i have to use it? :)
 
1.) you should always use a resistor (most of the time) to no BLOW your leds.. from getting to much voltage/current from your battery pack.

2.) yes the fluid cartridge (name escaped me when I posted last)

so that when you put int he fluid cartridge close enough to the reed switch it 'closes' the circuit.. (turning it on) doing whatever it is you designed your circuit to do. :)
 
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