Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club (PIC HEAVY!)

[Atlanthia]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

That's the best news I've had in a while!
I look forward to your next update

 

[F3nri5]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Looking really good!

Wiring wise - Real world.

There would be trunking, to support and protect the wiring, running down the spine linking the CM to 'Walkway Cage 1' to 'Walkway Cage 2'. Also probably some sort of interconnect brances off to the Main pod when it is in situ.

So you could approximate this idea. You could use 'dolls house' plug and sockets to act as 'scale' connectors between the supply and lights to further 'detail' this unseen on screen effect. The plugs and socketes are 2 pin connectors and are generally listed as 1/24th scale. Hope this helps. But there are 1/12th scale as well.

http://www.matlockminiatures.com/Shop/index1

http://www.microminiatures.co.uk/acatalog/Plugs_and_Sockets.html

Or make your own with these -

http://www.rapidonline.com/Cables-Connectors/SIL-Single-in-line-Turned-pin-sockets-82700

Fen

PS. Not sure where you can legally aquire fissionable material to power all this of course...........

 

[crackerjazz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Excellent stuff, Atlanthia and LMFAOSchwarz thumbsup:thumbsup Looking forward to more updates.

 

[Atlanthia]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Excellent stuff, Atlanthia and LMFAOSchwarz thumbsup:thumbsup Looking forward to more updates.

Many thanks from myself and on behalf of LMFAOSchwarz! We appreciate your support.

Looking really good!

Wiring wise - Real world.

There would be trunking, to support and protect the wiring, running down the spine linking the CM to 'Walkway Cage 1' to 'Walkway Cage 2'. Also probably some sort of interconnect brances off to the Main pod when it is in situ.

So you could approximate this idea. You could use 'dolls house' plug and sockets to act as 'scale' connectors between the supply and lights to further 'detail' this unseen on screen effect. The plugs and socketes are 2 pin connectors and are generally listed as 1/24th scale. Hope this helps. But there are 1/12th scale as well.

The Dolls House, Miniatures, Accessories and Dollshouse Lighting Specialists - MATLOCK MINIATURES

Miniatures Electrical Sockets

Or make your own with these -

SIL (Single in line) Turned pin sockets

Fen

PS. Not sure where you can legally aquire fissionable material to power all this of course...........

Hi Fen! And glad to see you made it over to here

Those are some great links, mate and I thank you much lay, Sir, as I didn't even know stuff like that existed! Glad that other issue worked out for you.

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Ok, I got out all of the assembled components to see where I'm at with this thing.
View attachment 117400
View attachment 117401
View attachment 117402
View attachment 117403
View attachment 117404
And then I see Darren's Eagle progress..with lights, no less...and I can't help but feel underwhelmed by my static, architectural build.
View attachment 117405
View attachment 117406
I mean, look at the walkway thus far. Kinda creepy in the darkness, no? Looking a bit like Space:1999 meets The Blair Witch Project or something.
View attachment 117407
View attachment 117408
Then again, maybe I can use that effect to inject some "mood" into the project...
View attachment 117409
Seeing how crackerjazz is so effectively combining his model with a background... http://www.therpf.com/f11/cetacean-man-atlantis-submarine-help-130800/...that I couldn't help but be inspired to flesh out my planet surface idea somewhat.
Remember I mentioned the idea of using planet Piri as a backdrop for the model? I could always illuminate those globe-things, strategically placing them perhaps to highlight the model. In a way it'd be the same idea as lights which shine upon a building at night. Not as brightly, of course, but a soft glow might make it look cool in a lowered-light room environment.
View attachment 117410
I know my knees shake at the very thought of making small human figures, but I wonder how it might look to have this pose of Alan Carter siting up front? It might be entertaining to have a little slice of a story to add interest to the display. Just an idea!

 

[F3nri5]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

We're not underwhelmed!

vive le differance as they say in some place!!

Both builds are great. They offer a variety of methods and techniques between them that will be useful to us 'mere mortals'. Keep up the good work and stop worrying!

Fen

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Possibly...but worry is what keep me aware I'm challenging myself!

 

[greylocke]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Darren what type of LED's are you using? I've got a string of a solar rope light that the cats chewed through, I'm using it for small stuff in the camper. I got 4 of them to light up using a cr2032 watch battery and nothing else just some electrical tape, they dim too badly with 5 lights and I blew 3 of them when I tried 2 2032's.

You might be able to set it up so each section has it's own battery pack of watch batteries with a micro switch instead of various connectors to tie them all into one power supply/battery pack.

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Greylocke's suggestion sounds feasible. Remember the days of yore, when one burned out Christmas bulb meant the whole string went dark? :unsure You'd end up with Christmas:1999 on your hands!

 

[F3nri5]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Have a look at this link. It will design your circuit for you.

As a rule each LED should have a resistor in series. LED's are current driven devices not voltage.

The resistor is chosen to keep the current within the spec of the LED but is calculated against the voltage supply. So you can 'tune' the current to be the minimum required or the max. Keeping the current at the low end will prolong the lifetime of the LED's.

LED's wired in parallel are better than series. Each LED has has a Forward voltage (Vf) This is the minimum voltage needed to make the LED illuminate. LED's in series add this together. (Vf+Vf). If the Vf exceeds the voltage supply the LED's in series wont work.

So if using a battery your LED's in series may well work initially. But as the battery drains and the voltage drops the LED's will stop working once the level goes under their combined Vf.

LED's in parallel will stay illuminated for longer as the voltage level will not dip below the LED's needs for longer than the series setup.

Decide on your supply Voltage, Select the current resitor based on the mA you want to run each LED at, and Robert is your Mothers Brother!

Current limiting Resistor calculator for leds

regards

Fen

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

I'm definitely hearing the voice to keep going...
View attachment 117549

 

[Atlanthia]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

We're not underwhelmed!

vive le differance as they say in some place!!

Both builds are great. They offer a variety of methods and techniques between them that will be useful to us 'mere mortals'. Keep up the good work and stop worrying!

Fen

Bob, you know I think your build, quality, finishing etc, is way superior to mine.....but I am happy with mine because I did it

Darren what type of LED's are you using? I've got a string of a solar rope light that the cats chewed through, I'm using it for small stuff in the camper. I got 4 of them to light up using a cr2032 watch battery and nothing else just some electrical tape, they dim too badly with 5 lights and I blew 3 of them when I tried 2 2032's.

You might be able to set it up so each section has it's own battery pack of watch batteries with a micro switch instead of various connectors to tie them all into one power supply/battery pack.

I am not sure what type they are. They come in a string of thirty and are powered by three AA 1.5 v batteries. It's not really a problem any more as such because all I am going to do is cut and extend certain sections of the loom. The CM. alone will require approximately twelve to fifteen of the thirty I have so that still leaves another fifteen to light the forward walkway cupboards/units and the computer screens in the passenger pod. I think it will work out just about exactly right. My issue is simply starting a job that I have never done before, but at the same time I know I am fully capable of. It's the taking the first step syndrome is all.

Have a look at this link. It will design your circuit for you.

As a rule each LED should have a resistor in series. LED's are current driven devices not voltage.

The resistor is chosen to keep the current within the spec of the LED but is calculated against the voltage supply. So you can 'tune' the current to be the minimum required or the max. Keeping the current at the low end will prolong the lifetime of the LED's.

LED's wired in parallel are better than series. Each LED has has a Forward voltage (Vf) This is the minimum voltage needed to make the LED illuminate. LED's in series add this together. (Vf+Vf). If the Vf exceeds the voltage supply the LED's in series wont work.

So if using a battery your LED's in series may well work initially. But as the battery drains and the voltage drops the LED's will stop working once the level goes under their combined Vf.

LED's in parallel will stay illuminated for longer as the voltage level will not dip below the LED's needs for longer than the series setup.

Decide on your supply Voltage, Select the current resitor based on the mA you want to run each LED at, and Robert is your Mothers Brother!

Current limiting Resistor calculator for leds

regards

Fen

Thank you, Fen. That will be invaluable to me at many stages of many builds!
Thank you also for the email! FANTASTIC!

I'm definitely hearing the voice to keep going...
View attachment 117549

lollol:lol

Absolutely brilliant!
My soon to be new avatar, methinks! .......with your permission, of course.

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

My soon to be new avatar, methinks! .......with your permission, of course.

I'd be honored..go for it!

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Alrighty...

Time to beef up this command module a bit.

Don't mind me, I'm thinking...planning...scheming.:love
View attachment 117722
There. I've got the basic curve shape I'm looking for. It's not exactly perfect, but I'll be able to tweak it once the plastic is in place..
View attachment 117723
What I'm doing is something new to me, boiling styrene and shaping it to the curve. The ellipse on paper will be my basic template.
View attachment 117724
This reminds me a bit of boiling spaghetti...strand by strand!:confused
View attachment 117725
I figure that by heating the center of the strip I'll get the most accurate curve. Theoretically. Trial and error..reheating..trial and error...etc...
View attachment 117726
There, I think I've got it in a useable shape now.
View attachment 117727
I cut out little notches in the edges of the foam core to seat the styrene. With the plastic glued into place, I can begin to see more of the shape emerging.
View attachment 117728View attachment 117729View attachment 117730View attachment 117731
Now to bend the other half. The 3/6/9/12 positions I'll make separately, then begin sanding down the exact contour once they're all in place.

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

I steamed another piece of styrene and molded the other half of the command module. I spared you another picture of water boiling. I then glued the other half on the module.
(In my previous post, I mistakenly referred to the pieces I'll add on the top and bottom as the '3-6-9-12' positions: how foolish of me, it should have said '6 and 12' positions.)
View attachment 117827
Not too bad! There are a few spots where I have to question the plastic's elliptical sobriety, but I expected that. I glued on some thin styrene to the outside in the low spots, so it can all be sanded later to a hopefully pleasing contour. I spliced in two pieces (lightly steamed) along the top and bottom, to form a continuous shape around the whole edge.
View attachment 117828View attachment 117829View attachment 117830View attachment 117831View attachment 117832View attachment 117833View attachment 117834View attachment 117835
Now, with something solid to work off of, I can begin to get this module built!opcorn

 

[Constantine]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Wow now that's model building! Interesting process and ingenuity, time consuming I bet.

Nice work!

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 Eagle Transporter Build Club UPDATED Sept 26th (PIC HEAVY!)

Wow now that's model building! Interesting process and ingenuity, time consuming I bet.

Nice work!

Thanks!
Well, it's time consuming if you count while I sit and stare and think about it. It's easily half the time involved!:unsure
Hitting "problem areas" is when I tend to slow down the most and get scared.:lol But once I'm over the hump, it moves along pretty well until the next "problem area" comes up!

 

[Atlanthia]

Re: Space 1999 50 1/2" Eagle Transporter Scratch Build (PIC HEAVY!)

LMFAOSchwarz: Interesting! You've taken a very different approach than I would have thought of trying.

Originally posted by Atlanthia: Thanks Bob! Although I would be VERY interested to hear how you would have done it.... I think it would make for a really interesting thread to hear other people's ideas and points of view.

Originally posted by LMFAOSchwarz: All right, my friend, you asked my opinion, so....
I think I might have tried something like this (I borrowed your picture to illustrate!): my illustration is quick and crude, but the idea is using foam core horizontal vanes to define the shape, and to add strength. Layered cardboard would work well, too, as well as bring down the cost. I'm not saying this way is better by any means! Like I said...just different!
This is going to be fun!

Newly posted by Atlantha: So, how is that easier method of boiling plastic and bending it by hand, working out for you, Bro'? :lol

 

[LMFAOSchwarz]

Re: Space 1999 50 1/2" Eagle Transporter Scratch Build (PIC HEAVY!)

So, how is that easier method of boiling plastic working out for you, Bro'? :lol

Hoho.:unsure Actually not too bad. I knew I'd want greater strength for the module and styrene would work well. All those gentle curves kept me avoiding it, though. The contour I just made was the biggest headache, as it bridges the gap between front end plain-old-module, and the rear cutaway-of-the-interior section. It's like two separate builds in one!

But to be honest, the boiled styrene was a recent thought!:confused

 

[Atlanthia]

Re: Space 1999 50 1/2" Eagle Transporter Scratch Build (PIC HEAVY!)

Hoho.:unsure Actually not too bad. I knew I'd want greater strength for the module and styrene would work well. All those gentle curves kept me avoiding it, though. The contour I just made was the biggest headache, as it bridges the gap between front end plain-old-module, and the rear cutaway-of-the-interior section. It's like two separate builds in one!

But to be honest, the boiled styrene was a recent thought!:confused

All I am saying is that my CM was built in 4 days and that has to be a record...you can keep your plastic boiling.....I will,stick to my papier mâché! :lol
Seriously, though...whatever works for you.