Excellent stuff, Atlanthia and LMFAOSchwarzthumbsup:thumbsup Looking forward to more updates.
Looking really good!
Wiring wise - Real world.
There would be trunking, to support and protect the wiring, running down the spine linking the CM to 'Walkway Cage 1' to 'Walkway Cage 2'. Also probably some sort of interconnect brances off to the Main pod when it is in situ.
So you could approximate this idea. You could use 'dolls house' plug and sockets to act as 'scale' connectors between the supply and lights to further 'detail' this unseen on screen effect. The plugs and socketes are 2 pin connectors and are generally listed as 1/24th scale. Hope this helps. But there are 1/12th scale as well.
The Dolls House, Miniatures, Accessories and Dollshouse Lighting Specialists - MATLOCK MINIATURES
Miniatures Electrical Sockets
Or make your own with these -
SIL (Single in line) Turned pin sockets
Fen
PS. Not sure where you can legally aquire fissionable material to power all this of course...........
We're not underwhelmed!
vive le differance as they say in some place!!
Both builds are great. They offer a variety of methods and techniques between them that will be useful to us 'mere mortals'. Keep up the good work and stop worrying!
Fen
Darren what type of LED's are you using? I've got a string of a solar rope light that the cats chewed through, I'm using it for small stuff in the camper. I got 4 of them to light up using a cr2032 watch battery and nothing else just some electrical tape, they dim too badly with 5 lights and I blew 3 of them when I tried 2 2032's.
You might be able to set it up so each section has it's own battery pack of watch batteries with a micro switch instead of various connectors to tie them all into one power supply/battery pack.
Have a look at this link. It will design your circuit for you.
As a rule each LED should have a resistor in series. LED's are current driven devices not voltage.
The resistor is chosen to keep the current within the spec of the LED but is calculated against the voltage supply. So you can 'tune' the current to be the minimum required or the max. Keeping the current at the low end will prolong the lifetime of the LED's.
LED's wired in parallel are better than series. Each LED has has a Forward voltage (Vf) This is the minimum voltage needed to make the LED illuminate. LED's in series add this together. (Vf+Vf). If the Vf exceeds the voltage supply the LED's in series wont work.
So if using a battery your LED's in series may well work initially. But as the battery drains and the voltage drops the LED's will stop working once the level goes under their combined Vf.
LED's in parallel will stay illuminated for longer as the voltage level will not dip below the LED's needs for longer than the series setup.
Decide on your supply Voltage, Select the current resitor based on the mA you want to run each LED at, and Robert is your Mothers Brother!
Current limiting Resistor calculator for leds
regards
Fen
I'm definitely hearing the voice to keep going...
View attachment 117549
My soon to be new avatar, methinks! .......with your permission, of course.
Wow now that's model building! Interesting process and ingenuity, time consuming I bet.
Nice work!
LMFAOSchwarz: Interesting! You've taken a very different approach than I would have thought of trying.
Originally posted by Atlanthia: Thanks Bob!Although I would be VERY interested to hear how you would have done it.... I think it would make for a really interesting thread to hear other people's ideas and points of view.
Originally posted by LMFAOSchwarz: All right, my friend, you asked my opinion, so....
I think I might have tried something like this (I borrowed your picture to illustrate!): my illustration is quick and crude, but the idea is using foam core horizontal vanes to define the shape, and to add strength. Layered cardboard would work well, too, as well as bring down the cost. I'm not saying this way is better by any means! Like I said...just different!
This is going to be fun!
So, how is that easier method of boiling plastic working out for you, Bro'? :lol
Hoho.:unsure Actually not too bad. I knew I'd want greater strength for the module and styrene would work well. All those gentle curves kept me avoiding it, though. The contour I just made was the biggest headache, as it bridges the gap between front end plain-old-module, and the rear cutaway-of-the-interior section. It's like two separate builds in one!
But to be honest, the boiled styrene was a recent thought!:confused