wgdesign
Active Member
Yeah I was lucky enough a year ago to land a job in the 3D printing and scanning biz. I get to play with some great toys
Solo’s Blaster/Carbine
- Thread starter chubsANDdoggers
- Start date
Yeah, smoothing out FDM stuff and making it pretty and presentable is SUPER time-consuming. I've done a LOT of it.
It's just not worth it to me to do it on a mass scale. I'll do some models for myself, and in some cases I end up with an extra or two, and I'll sell those. But I'd go mad doing it over and over.
It's just not worth it to me to do it on a mass scale. I'll do some models for myself, and in some cases I end up with an extra or two, and I'll sell those. But I'd go mad doing it over and over.
wgdesign
Active Member
Yeah I can't be bothered with FDM for that exact reason. I only use it if I absolutely have to.
Dann wgdesign One of the reasons Ive never used FDM in the past is exactly what you have said here. Ive always looked at it like a beginners filament. Of all the 3d technology out there FDM is generally the cheapest, cleanest and most attainable for home printing. From day 1 of this endeavor of mine I’ve always used SLS (eventually MJF once it came on the scene) simply because its super strong, stronger than most realize and relatively pretty easy to smooth out. The only issue with MJF is the price. It’s expensive! This below is a MJF print with only primer added. Zero sanding as of yet and you can clearly see the advantages of SLS here..
FDM print quality has been and still is my biggest concern to this day. That concern hasn’t changed honestly but FDM technology seems to have.. this here is an FDM print apparently
FDM print quality has been and still is my biggest concern to this day. That concern hasn’t changed honestly but FDM technology seems to have.. this here is an FDM print apparently
Vagabond Elf
Well-Known Member
My experience is all in FDM, but I do find that a high quality and mechanically accurate printer makes a huge difference.
My first printer was an Ender-5, and even doing my prints at half speed and 0.12mm layer lines, the parts take a lot of sanding. I have R2-D2 parts from over a year ago that still aren't painted because they were printed on that Ender-5 and I just don't want to deal with the sanding.
My current printer is an X1C. Again, I'm printing at "half" speed (so only 100mm/s) to improve mechanical accuracy, with 0.12mm layer heights, and the result is so fine I can only barely feel the layer lines on the raw print. The bottom layer often doesn't need any sanding at all - or needs to be roughed up so I can glue things together - and other surfaces can be done very quickly. A shoulder horseshoe that came off the new printer needed less than 30 minutes of sanding to be ready to prime; the shoulder horseshoe that came off the old printer took over 90 minutes of sanding.
Using the right kind of plastic makes a huge difference, too. Of the three "hobby" filaments - PLA, PETG, ABS - most folks print in PLA, because it's easy. But PLA is actually the mechanically hardest of the three plastics, so it's a lot more work to sand. ABS is actually the softest of them, and it is much, much easier to sand smooth. (PETG falls in the middle.)
So my opinion these days is: if you want to print large-scale props, replicas, or costumes, printing them on ABS with a very accurate printer is the best way to go. (For smaller scale things, probably printing them in resin is the most accurate, though that adds a host of other complications.)
Assuming, of course, that one does not have access to industrial level methods like SLS.
My first printer was an Ender-5, and even doing my prints at half speed and 0.12mm layer lines, the parts take a lot of sanding. I have R2-D2 parts from over a year ago that still aren't painted because they were printed on that Ender-5 and I just don't want to deal with the sanding.
My current printer is an X1C. Again, I'm printing at "half" speed (so only 100mm/s) to improve mechanical accuracy, with 0.12mm layer heights, and the result is so fine I can only barely feel the layer lines on the raw print. The bottom layer often doesn't need any sanding at all - or needs to be roughed up so I can glue things together - and other surfaces can be done very quickly. A shoulder horseshoe that came off the new printer needed less than 30 minutes of sanding to be ready to prime; the shoulder horseshoe that came off the old printer took over 90 minutes of sanding.
Using the right kind of plastic makes a huge difference, too. Of the three "hobby" filaments - PLA, PETG, ABS - most folks print in PLA, because it's easy. But PLA is actually the mechanically hardest of the three plastics, so it's a lot more work to sand. ABS is actually the softest of them, and it is much, much easier to sand smooth. (PETG falls in the middle.)
So my opinion these days is: if you want to print large-scale props, replicas, or costumes, printing them on ABS with a very accurate printer is the best way to go. (For smaller scale things, probably printing them in resin is the most accurate, though that adds a host of other complications.)
Assuming, of course, that one does not have access to industrial level methods like SLS.
Vagabond Elf You are assuming correct.. most, including myself do not have access to an industrial level SLS printer. I obviously have to outsource all those SLS prints and have been doing so now for over 8 years. The question I get more often than not is why I dont have more blasters on hand that are actually my own. Because it simply expensive. To have these full CAD blasters printed up full in MJF is well over $200. And that is NOT using Shapeways. If I printed these up in MJF through Shapeways it would be well over $300 easy. No joke. But the strength and quality rivals and even outdoes in some cases parts that are machined. It’s just simply expensive.
I already have my own CAD software that I’ve become pretty proficient at over the years. But “test” printing in MJF isn’t that cost effective clearly. The X1C is the exact printer I’m looking at to be honest. I am planning on getting the AMS as well but I’m thinking about printing mostly in PETG over PLA or ABS. PLA I from my understanding is the most friendly but also the most brittle so some of the smaller, more delicate designs I dont think will work. I’d rather not modify the parts either but thats a bridge to cross at a later date. ABS is tempting but from all the info I’ve gathered PETG seems to have the best balance of the two. The P1P is an option as well but I like the enclosure of the X1C and the ability to upgrade to carbon fiber down the line if desired.
It’s not for these basters alone that I would be making such an investment either. Ive been patiently waiting for FDM printers to get to this kind level & simplicity for a while now. Nothing yet is truly plug and play but by the sounds of it, we’re getting closer. I did go to a trade show about year ago and was blown away by some of the FDM printers and print details that were on display. Since then I’ve been monitoring the latest and greatest and your X1 seems to have really made some waves.
I already have my own CAD software that I’ve become pretty proficient at over the years. But “test” printing in MJF isn’t that cost effective clearly. The X1C is the exact printer I’m looking at to be honest. I am planning on getting the AMS as well but I’m thinking about printing mostly in PETG over PLA or ABS. PLA I from my understanding is the most friendly but also the most brittle so some of the smaller, more delicate designs I dont think will work. I’d rather not modify the parts either but thats a bridge to cross at a later date. ABS is tempting but from all the info I’ve gathered PETG seems to have the best balance of the two. The P1P is an option as well but I like the enclosure of the X1C and the ability to upgrade to carbon fiber down the line if desired.
It’s not for these basters alone that I would be making such an investment either. Ive been patiently waiting for FDM printers to get to this kind level & simplicity for a while now. Nothing yet is truly plug and play but by the sounds of it, we’re getting closer. I did go to a trade show about year ago and was blown away by some of the FDM printers and print details that were on display. Since then I’ve been monitoring the latest and greatest and your X1 seems to have really made some waves.
Vagabond Elf
Well-Known Member
Here's my thoughts on filaments, based on my experience building R2-D2 parts.
PLA: easy to print, very very durable, inexpensive. Impossible to solvent weld, so any joins have to be glued. This is inherently weaker, and means you're painting over two different substrates; this is certainly doable, but it complicates life. Because PLA is so durable, it takes a lot of work to sand it smooth. Finally, PLA has a fairly low glass transition temperature of about 60 degrees. (C, I'm Canadian and think in real measurements.
)PLA is very good for stand alone parts that don't need to hide the fact that they're 3d printed and aren't going to be near windows, in vehicles, or used in high-friction situations. PLA makes an excellent doorstop; I've also used it to make all sorts of mounts and jigs and even a battery tray for motocycle-battery sized LiFePO4 batteries. It's also good for prototyping parts that will end up in some other plastic.
PLA+ is PLA with something added to it. It's not a standard, it's an advertising hook, and every manufacturer's PLA+ is different. Common additives are to increase the glass transition temperature or to make it easier to solvent weld. I've only used PLA+ by accident, so I don't have a lot of knowledge on it.
PETG is almost as easy to print as PLA. It's melting point is the top end of the safe zone in a PTFE-lined hotend, which a lot of lower-cost printers use. You do have to be cautious about the print surface, as PETG can bond too well to either glass or PEI sheets - especially textured PEI. PETG is actually slightly less durable than PLA, meaning a PETG coathanger would fail sooner than a PLA one. However, it's just a tiny bit flexible, which means it's very good for things with a mechanical join like a screw - the plastic flexes a bit around the metal, rather than chewing itself up on it.
PETG has a higher glass transition temperature, somewhere around 90C, making it reasonably safe in most non-industrial environments. It can be solvent welded, but it needs extremely toxic chemicals like MEK. (MEK is a controlled substance in many jurisdictions like Europe and California because it's really quite dangerous.) PETG is made of PET, and PET has a reputation for being difficult to paint, although I'm starting to conclude that's less a characteristic of the plastic itself and more a side effect of most things being made from PET being both extremely smooth and vacuum-molded, and thus likely contaminated with release agents.
I use PETG for things like lenses and diffusers, where even an LED might get hot enough to be an issue over time (and because the stores I shop at are more likely to have transparent PETG than transparent PLA). I also use it for things that need screws, like an L-bracket or the thing that holds my droid's centre wheels onto the (wooden) centre foot.
ABS has a much higher glass transition temperature. It also has a higher melting point, enough that a PTFE lined hotend is going to start off-gassing nerve agents, and so should only be used on an all-metal hotend. It can be solvent-welded with acetone or even model cement (which is basically acetone) to get a nice strong bond with no foreign materials. It's also softer than the other plastics (there's a reason why plastic gaming miniatures are usually cast in ABS) so it's relatively easy to sand, for anything that need to be finished and painted.
The main doinside to ABS is that it shrinks slightly when it cools, and if your printer isn't enclosed the middle of a print will start to cool even while the top (fresh out of the nozzle) and the bottom (sitting on the heated build plate) are still warm. This can result in warping or even delaminating. So you need a good printer and you need to know what you're doing, to print ABS. But, if you can print it, the finishing work is a great deal less.
As for the X1C: this is a great printer, but keep in mind that it was designed to print carbon-fibre filaments. ABS is really the bottom end of its intended use-case. If you're printing PLA on it regularly, you want to get a PEI print surface and you'll need to take off the lid; even then the auxillary cooling fan will be on full blast and the thing will be loud. Basically, using an X1C to print PLA is like taking your Peterbuilt tracto-trailer to the 7-Eleven for a pack of chips. You can do it, but it's really not using the machine's capabilities.
My recommendation: If you're just planning to print PLA & PETG, look at the P1P instead. There's also totally unsubstatiated rumours of a "P1S" which the Interwebs are assuming will be an upgraded version. The P1P is slightly less user-friendly (especially if you're avoiding the cloud-based features) but its a lot less money, just as precise (it's the exact same motion system) and well-suited for the lower temperature filaments.
On the other hand, if you can afford the money cost and aren't planning to have the printer in your bedroom or office (which I think is a bad idea with any 3d printer), the X1C will do what you've described as your goal, and has that extra capacity in reserve for when you decide to make an ABS or carbon fibre blaster.
And of course this is all just my opinion, you should definitely do the thing that feels right to you!
Vagabond Elf you have given me a lot to think about. I’ve been all over YouTube as well as asking all sorts of questions on Reddit with regards to filaments, each printers limitations (or lack there of), accessories.. you pretty much tackled most of them in your above reply. Thank you! The only thing you mentioned that seem to contradict info Ive found elsewhere is PETG to PLA. You said it’s more likely to break over PLA. I was under the impression it’s the opposite, unless I’ve mistaken you. I remember watching a YT video where the guy left prints out in the sun and while the PLA deformed the PETG seemed keep its shape. This is also from BL webpage..
“Known for impact and water resistance, high flexibility, strong layer adhesion, Bambu PETG Basic is ideal for printing tools (vises, tensioners, bag clips), toys (frisbees, boomerangs), water containers (bottles, watering cans), and outdoor items (planter pots, bottle cages) that require long-term exposure and withstanding impacts.“
The only issue that has been giving me hesitation in PETG is apparently its hard to paint. That and I’m trying to find out if you can mix filaments with the AMS system when multi color printing. For example can you print a sign with the background one filament (say PLA) and the lettering another filament (say PETG)? Or does it have to be all the same filament?
With all the info you have given me it makes me re-think that maybe I’d be best to stick with all PLA and the P1P. I just believe that certain parts will need a certain amount of flexibility to work and thats where the X1C comes in. Those parts could be printed in Carbon Fibre alone if needed and X1C gives you that option. I know you technically could enclose the P1P but I’d rather simply save up and get the X1 if that’s case. Well I wont be getting it for at least another month or so as I need to catch up on some projects first. So I have plenty of time to continue contemplating and deep diving.. this is always the most enjoyable part of this endeavor. Growing, learning and exploring. You have shared a LOT of info and its been very helpful Mr Elf! Thank you very much for taking the time. As far as the P1S goes ya I’ve heard the patents BL have filed for that and the X1’s but thats all speculation at this point. Smoke = fire and BL have announced they do have something big cooking up. But you have to jump in at some point without regrets. That takes me back to the X1. No regrets with that one.
“Known for impact and water resistance, high flexibility, strong layer adhesion, Bambu PETG Basic is ideal for printing tools (vises, tensioners, bag clips), toys (frisbees, boomerangs), water containers (bottles, watering cans), and outdoor items (planter pots, bottle cages) that require long-term exposure and withstanding impacts.“
The only issue that has been giving me hesitation in PETG is apparently its hard to paint. That and I’m trying to find out if you can mix filaments with the AMS system when multi color printing. For example can you print a sign with the background one filament (say PLA) and the lettering another filament (say PETG)? Or does it have to be all the same filament?
With all the info you have given me it makes me re-think that maybe I’d be best to stick with all PLA and the P1P. I just believe that certain parts will need a certain amount of flexibility to work and thats where the X1C comes in. Those parts could be printed in Carbon Fibre alone if needed and X1C gives you that option. I know you technically could enclose the P1P but I’d rather simply save up and get the X1 if that’s case. Well I wont be getting it for at least another month or so as I need to catch up on some projects first. So I have plenty of time to continue contemplating and deep diving.. this is always the most enjoyable part of this endeavor. Growing, learning and exploring. You have shared a LOT of info and its been very helpful Mr Elf! Thank you very much for taking the time. As far as the P1S goes ya I’ve heard the patents BL have filed for that and the X1’s but thats all speculation at this point. Smoke = fire and BL have announced they do have something big cooking up. But you have to jump in at some point without regrets. That takes me back to the X1. No regrets with that one.
Also.. ur not the only Canadian around these parts
Vagabond Elf
Well-Known Member
Check out CNC Kitchen's comparisons of PLA and PETG for a deeper dive, but basically, PLA is harder or more rigid. So for some things, it's better, especiallf if the part needs to resist mechanical wear, like a wedge you stick under the door to keep it open.
Also, the lower melting point tends to contribute to better layer adhesion. Remember that FDM builds things up in layers, so an FDM printed part is weakest between those layers. It's kind of like the grain in wood. When the new layer comes down the previous layer melts just a little and that's why the two layers stick together. The more the previous layer softens, the better the layer adhesion.
But PETG, whilst a little softer, is also less rigid. So for things that need to withstand impacts, like a buffer on your wall that's meant to absorb the force of the door being opened rally fast, or for things that will have metal parts interacting with them like the bolts holding RD-D2's legs on, it tends to work better. It also works well for things that inherently flex, like a cable clip or a bookmark. These differences are small, though, and the main reason I can think of to use PLA over PETG is that PLA is easier to store. PETG is extremely hygroscopic, so if you're pulling out an old roll would want to dry it out before you use it. But if you're set-up to print PETG by default, it's probably not worth stocking PLA for those occasions when it's mildly better.
The bit you're referring to about the PLA deforming after being left in the sun has nothing to do with the strength of either plastic, though. That comes down to PLA's lower Glass Transition Temperature. There was a fellow on here building Andor's blaster; they printed it in PLA, painted it, and left outside to cure. Dark paint of course absorbs heat; primer and paint are insulators so it also trapped the heat in the plastic. Over time, the plastic got warm enough to soften and deform. (It's also possible in that scenario that things were affected by the paint, because spray paint can do weird things to plastic, so the glass transition temp may have been lowered.)
Overall, then, it is probably safe to say that PETG is less likely to fail than PLA. But it is more likely to simply break due to mechanical force. Because breaking is only one of the many ways a physical part can fail.
Injection-molded PET is very hard to paint, and I'm starting to suspect that PETG's rep for being hard to paint is mostly based on that. I haven't painted very much PETG, but what little I did worked okay. Plenty of droid-builders are working in PETG as well and they seem to have reasonable success in painting their droids. However, 95% of what I print is in ABS, so I don't have a lot of data there.
I do think that if you figure you're probably going to print carbon fibre down the line, getting the X1C is much simpler and probably cheaper than upgrading the P1P. If you do that, though, you should definitely experiment with ABS. 3dprintingcanada offers "generic" ABS for 22$, so it's affordable enough to try out. It does take some learning to get things to really work out, but I find it just so much easier to build things from once they're off the printer. (Also, PETG sticks way too well to all the print surfaces the X1C ships with, so it's actually kind of tricky to work with on that particular machine.)
As for mixing types of filaments: That's usually a bad idea, unless they have very, very similar temperature profiles. On the X1C in specific you have the problem that it all has to fit through the same nozzle, and the slicer isn't smart enough to change the nozzle temp mid-job, so all the filaments used have to have similar melting points. For your sign, you'd be better off just using two different colours of the same filament.
If you really want to mix filaments in a single part, you want a multi-toolhead or IDEX machine like the Prusa XL. Even there, though, you have potential issues with the two plastics not sticking together well. The colder plastic might not fuse properly; the hotter one might distort previous layers. And from a design standpoint, it feels like things probably should have been two separate parts that you join after. This is stepping outside my true knowledge, but it seems to me the most common use case for true multi-material printing in a single part is soluble supports. This is where you print your supports in something that dissolves easily (usually in water) making it a lot easier to get the parts and supports separated after you're done.
Also, the lower melting point tends to contribute to better layer adhesion. Remember that FDM builds things up in layers, so an FDM printed part is weakest between those layers. It's kind of like the grain in wood. When the new layer comes down the previous layer melts just a little and that's why the two layers stick together. The more the previous layer softens, the better the layer adhesion.
But PETG, whilst a little softer, is also less rigid. So for things that need to withstand impacts, like a buffer on your wall that's meant to absorb the force of the door being opened rally fast, or for things that will have metal parts interacting with them like the bolts holding RD-D2's legs on, it tends to work better. It also works well for things that inherently flex, like a cable clip or a bookmark. These differences are small, though, and the main reason I can think of to use PLA over PETG is that PLA is easier to store. PETG is extremely hygroscopic, so if you're pulling out an old roll would want to dry it out before you use it. But if you're set-up to print PETG by default, it's probably not worth stocking PLA for those occasions when it's mildly better.
The bit you're referring to about the PLA deforming after being left in the sun has nothing to do with the strength of either plastic, though. That comes down to PLA's lower Glass Transition Temperature. There was a fellow on here building Andor's blaster; they printed it in PLA, painted it, and left outside to cure. Dark paint of course absorbs heat; primer and paint are insulators so it also trapped the heat in the plastic. Over time, the plastic got warm enough to soften and deform. (It's also possible in that scenario that things were affected by the paint, because spray paint can do weird things to plastic, so the glass transition temp may have been lowered.)
Overall, then, it is probably safe to say that PETG is less likely to fail than PLA. But it is more likely to simply break due to mechanical force. Because breaking is only one of the many ways a physical part can fail.
Injection-molded PET is very hard to paint, and I'm starting to suspect that PETG's rep for being hard to paint is mostly based on that. I haven't painted very much PETG, but what little I did worked okay. Plenty of droid-builders are working in PETG as well and they seem to have reasonable success in painting their droids. However, 95% of what I print is in ABS, so I don't have a lot of data there.
I do think that if you figure you're probably going to print carbon fibre down the line, getting the X1C is much simpler and probably cheaper than upgrading the P1P. If you do that, though, you should definitely experiment with ABS. 3dprintingcanada offers "generic" ABS for 22$, so it's affordable enough to try out. It does take some learning to get things to really work out, but I find it just so much easier to build things from once they're off the printer. (Also, PETG sticks way too well to all the print surfaces the X1C ships with, so it's actually kind of tricky to work with on that particular machine.)
As for mixing types of filaments: That's usually a bad idea, unless they have very, very similar temperature profiles. On the X1C in specific you have the problem that it all has to fit through the same nozzle, and the slicer isn't smart enough to change the nozzle temp mid-job, so all the filaments used have to have similar melting points. For your sign, you'd be better off just using two different colours of the same filament.
If you really want to mix filaments in a single part, you want a multi-toolhead or IDEX machine like the Prusa XL. Even there, though, you have potential issues with the two plastics not sticking together well. The colder plastic might not fuse properly; the hotter one might distort previous layers. And from a design standpoint, it feels like things probably should have been two separate parts that you join after. This is stepping outside my true knowledge, but it seems to me the most common use case for true multi-material printing in a single part is soluble supports. This is where you print your supports in something that dissolves easily (usually in water) making it a lot easier to get the parts and supports separated after you're done.
Vagabond Elf truly thanks again for taking the time to be so informative in ur replay. Extremely helpful. CNC Kitchen is a great channel and very informative as well.
This is a great way to put it so it’s digestible as far as understanding is concerned..
”Overall, then, it is probably safe to say that PETG is less likely to fail than PLA. But it is more likely to simply break due to mechanical force. Because breaking is only one of the many ways a physical part can fail”.
Just saw the P1S has become official today. Looks to be a P1P but enclosed.
wgdesign good to know about the painting. That’s a concern but the more I review all these filaments it seems to me that the differences are very minor in the grand scheme of things. None of the materials seem to blow the other out of the water in any tests that are performed. Very interesting.
This is a great way to put it so it’s digestible as far as understanding is concerned..
”Overall, then, it is probably safe to say that PETG is less likely to fail than PLA. But it is more likely to simply break due to mechanical force. Because breaking is only one of the many ways a physical part can fail”.
Just saw the P1S has become official today. Looks to be a P1P but enclosed.
wgdesign good to know about the painting. That’s a concern but the more I review all these filaments it seems to me that the differences are very minor in the grand scheme of things. None of the materials seem to blow the other out of the water in any tests that are performed. Very interesting.
So I’ve finally jumped into the FMD world.
These parts are simply being printed one part at a time to see how my designs work as they are. Some parts will need to be tweaked eventually to work better and I’ll have to figure out the best orientation/supports but so far I’m really happy with what I’m seeing..
These parts are simply being printed one part at a time to see how my designs work as they are. Some parts will need to be tweaked eventually to work better and I’ll have to figure out the best orientation/supports but so far I’m really happy with what I’m seeing..
Vagabond Elf
Well-Known Member
That looks really good! Did you go with the Bambu machine, then?
I did yes. Went with the P1S. These printers really are revolutionary. I know they are not quite print and play but Bambu has gotten it pretty darn close. Supports and FDM material tolerances is my biggest learning curve to make all these individual parts work and play nice with one another.
Vagabond Elf
Well-Known Member
My experience is that an X1C's accuracy goes up a lot if you cut the speed to about half of Bambu's defaults, and the printer will still be faster than most Creality machines. Since the P1S has the exact same motion system, I suspect you'll see a similar effect.
Ive only printed in the Standard mode so far. Haven’t tried either sport or ludicrous just yet. Beyond that there is way too many numbers within each setting for me to start messing with.. But ive been goin down YT rabbit holes while doin some work in the garage which have been very helpful.
So I think I have most of these parts dialed in for FDM printing. The biggest learning curve was understanding the proper support setting (to leave as little distress as possible) and placement for each part on the build plate to achieve the best strength for durability. Some parts have been or will have to be slightly redesigned in order to achieve such strength like the firing pin for example. Did the same for the trigger as well..
Still need to modify some parts (grip lines for example so they are more predominant) but outside of that I think I’ve got most everything worked out. All the orange prints are literally the 2nd thing I ever printed on this printer (benchy being the 1st) and I’ve learned a lot since then. The different colors are nice way to show off a lot of the individual parts needed to make up this build. The only metal parts are the 1/4-20 screw that holds the mount on, 3 2/56 screws up front of the scope and the 2 springs (1 inside the bolt and other inside the sight slide).
Otherwise everything else is 3d printed..
Still need to modify some parts (grip lines for example so they are more predominant) but outside of that I think I’ve got most everything worked out. All the orange prints are literally the 2nd thing I ever printed on this printer (benchy being the 1st) and I’ve learned a lot since then. The different colors are nice way to show off a lot of the individual parts needed to make up this build. The only metal parts are the 1/4-20 screw that holds the mount on, 3 2/56 screws up front of the scope and the 2 springs (1 inside the bolt and other inside the sight slide).
Otherwise everything else is 3d printed..
