Solo’s Blaster/Carbine

Matte Painter Bravo bud!! When I first saw it the mystery disk looked like it was metal. Thanks for sharing your technique as well. Always around this time of year the question comes “what do u want for Xmas?”.. I think I know the answer now. You just sold me on an Airbrush. Absolutely beautiful!

Would you suggest a certain airbrush specifically (or additional attachments). Or are they pretty much universal as far as what they do? Lastly do you have a page of your own here (RPF) or an Instagram page I could fallow to see more of your work? Cheers!
 
Badger or Paasche are good quality airbrushes. Whatever you get, make sure it's a double-action. That allows you to vary the air/paint mixure while working... essential for fine detail work. I prefer the bottom feed to the top cup, as you can have different paints prepared and ready to go and it's easy to swap out. I've always just used the inert gas bottle from my Mig welder for propellant (with a regulator for the airbrush), but otherwise a compressor is a good idea. The small propellant bottles are a PITA.
 
chubsANDdoggers said:
Matte Painter Bravo bud!! When I first saw it the mystery disk looked like it was metal. Thanks for sharing your technique as well. Always around this time of year the question comes “what do u want for Xmas?”.. I think I know the answer now. You just sold me on an Airbrush. Absolutely beautiful!

Would you suggest a certain airbrush specifically (or additional attachments). Or are they pretty much universal as far as what they do? Lastly do you have a page of your own here (RPF) or an Instagram page I could fallow to see more of your work? Cheers!
Click to expand...
The mystery disc is metal. I bought some thin sheet aluminium from Ace Hardware and cut out the disc with my Dremel. I then superglued the disc to the end of a grinding bit on my Dremel and pushed the disc up to a piece of fine sand paper. Spinning the disc gave me the radial grooves.
I use a few Iwata airbrushes. I usually do miniatures so the top feed paint cup is ideal, I only need small amounts of paint. If you're mostly doing props you might want something with a bottom feed that can have larger paint reservoirs.
Make sure to get a compressor with a tank. Sparmax is always a safe option but you're looking at spending over $200.
I just post stuff here occasionally, I haven't done a lot of props. I'm currently working through the Jedi training remote and trying to make genuinely accurate CAD representation of all the nurnies.
 
MGC replica progress..
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Here’s another fun scratch recreation from using pictures alone. The esoteric crowd should appreciate this but that crowd is also understandably hard crowd please.
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The weavers most predominantly featured in ROTJ on the e11’s and more importantly Solo’s two screen used (and unused) DL-44’s have become pretty much extinct these days. So instead of using inaccurate ones that sort of, kind of fit bill.. why not simply recreate them!

As Oscar Goldman once said.. “Gentlemen, we can rebuild him. We have the technology.”

I designed up everything you see here including the screws. The threading is designed into the part as well and it’s great to see it all come together without any hiccups (well.. except for the color). I’ll end up using a resin print for knob as the details will come out better but for strength and durability this MJF nylon print is more than up for the task. Again don’t mind the color as that’s simply a mistake on the service providers part and they will be painted regardless..
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Vagabond Elf said:
The scope mount is awesome!
Click to expand...

Thanks bud!

Vagabond Elf said:
I'm very curious to see if the tolerances are enough to let it keep working after you've painted it. Fingers crossed!
Click to expand...

For the Stembridge scope mount? What do u mean by “keep it working” if you don’t mind? Might be able answer ur concern now to be honest. Any male/female part I don’t paint in order to keep them working properly but you won’t see those parts anyhow. For example on this I weaver won’t be painting any of the threaded parts themselves. The rest of course will be painted though. That way everything works as designed.

Edit: oh wait u probably mean Bespin mount sorry. That I’ll simply cover when painting. It shouldn’t be an issue either.
 
chubsANDdoggers said:
Thanks bud!



For the Stembridge scope mount? What do u mean by “keep it working” if you don’t mind? Might be able answer ur concern now to be honest. Any male/female part I don’t paint in order to keep them working properly but you won’t see those parts anyhow. For example on this I weaver won’t be painting any of the threaded parts themselves. The rest of course will be painted though. That way everything works as designed.

Edit: oh wait u probably mean Bespin mount sorry. That I’ll simply cover when painting. It shouldn’t be an issue either.
Click to expand...

I meant whatever version it is that you referred to when you said this:

I designed up everything you see here including the screws. The threading is designed into the part as well and it’s great to see it all come together without any hiccups (well.. except for the color). I’ll end up using a resin print for knob as the details will come out better but for strength and durability this MJF nylon print is more than up for the task. Again don’t mind the color as that’s simply a mistake on the service providers part and they will be painted regardless..
Click to expand...

My takeaway was that you had printed a functional screw in MJF Nylon and intended to keep it as a functional screw. I also assumed that part of that screw would emerge from the far end of the mount. So I thus assumed that you'd need to paint at least part of the screw since leaving it bright blue was probably not ideal.
 
Vagabond Elf gotchya! I’ve being printing “screws” for a while now but originally tapping and threading them in hand but now as I mentioned I’m doing all the threading in the design itself. The concerns you mentioned honestly have already been taken into account. For example with this Stembridge weaver I made the tip smaller so when painted it won’t conflict with the attachment. Simply tape it up and paint. There’s enough room for it to come out the other side..
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Just reworked the TOD vial lid with some new rhinestones provided by cjunco1937. It’s also created for him as well as he is one of the most passionate Indy’s fan I’ve had the pleasure of chatting with. His Indy collection is 2nd to none so having this on display within it will be an honor..
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As always, John knocks it out of the park. Here are some comps against the the screen version, albeit this was with an earlier set of rhinestones— the ones eventually used were less pointy and closer in color, but these pics show how close to the prop chubsANDdoggers got with this replica.


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