Show off your RE weathered Obi sabers!

That looks fantastic!!! :cool

You used aluminum black on the steel? I've never tried that, but it looks like it worked pretty well. :thumbsup :thumbsup



Wow, thank you. At some point down the line I want to get one of your all shiny ones to have an as first built too.

Yeah, I read in one of these threads [edit: it was James Kenobi in Dr Talyn's build thread] that the aluminum black makes it darker than the perma-blue so I figured I'd try it. Worst case I could always just redo it with blue. I like it though.
 
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ZombieKiller, thanks to you I'm now obsessed with finding a box for my saber and fill it with other obscure tools and parts. It's amazing how hard it is to find something with those dimensions.


I suppose these belong here as well, full details of the techniques used are in the dedicated thread.

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I tried out the PermaBlue paste and wow, it works completely different from the SuperBlue liquid. Goes on a lot more solid, doesnt rub off at all and stays on. Now to find some AluminumBlack and try that too.
 
I got mine today, and It's fantastic! Haven't gotten around to weather it further yet, but I'm think on making some scratches and dents here and there. I ordered it without a hole for the D-ring, since I am planning for putting a Covertec wheel on it, making it a Obi ep 3 - ep 4 nomad saber :)

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When weathering the brass stem that the windvane sits upon, how do you guys get the part above the windvane to be brassier and the part below to be darker? I was figuring that I would do the ammonia treatment and then use steel wool to remove some of the tarnishing on the upper portion. Would that work?
 
Here's a vid I made detailing my experiments with weathering the windvane. In the end, I ended up using some espresso grounds in the ammonia and also burying the brass parts in some grounds while keeping it all sealed up in a little drink cooler. I'm quite pleased with the results.
 
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Very informative Matt ... thanks for experimenting for us ... now how about the rest of the grenade? :)

Chaim

It's in the works :cool. I just have to edit the video down.

I also have to figure out how I want to approach the clamp. I'm not sure if I should go the peeled up mylar tape route or not. I'm leaning toward no, since I can't see any evidence of it on the Tunisia pics, but I'm open to any suggestions.
 
If it's a real vintage clamp ... leave as is ... grab it from time to time for a natural weathering approach ... personally I don't like the mylar tape weathering on an OB1 saber ... but that's just me :)

Chaim
 
If it's a real vintage clamp ... leave as is ... grab it from time to time for a natural weathering approach ... personally I don't like the mylar tape weathering on an OB1 saber ... but that's just me :)

Chaim
I'm glad to know that I'm not the only one that prefers non-taped, although I have seen some tape jobs that were quite impressive. I've got a replica Roman clamp on this guy, so I'm going to have to give it a head start on the weathering. I figure I'll take some finer grade sandpaper to it to wear down the plating and then, yeah, take the natural weathering approach. Maybe I'll just keep the clamp in my pocket with my keys and change while I'm at work :lol.
 
You can always just put the tape on and see how you like it. If you don't, just take it off. It's cheap enough. I personally think it looks cool, so mine has it, but it's not a necessity for me either.
 
Part 4: using birchwood casey aluminum black to weather the booster, grenade, and emitter.

Very cool vids! :thumbsup

A few tips (you may have already figured out) :

If you let the parts air dry before rinsing you'll get more rust build up. Most can still be removed with a toothbrush.
If you rinse immediately after treatment, then use a hair dryer (as you did), you get more of that white residue. Just use a toothbrush to remove residue.
Try lightly turning parts in steel-wool to give the black finish a bit of a "shine". However, if you turn too much or too hard, you'll remove the finish so be careful.

:cheers
 

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