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[satoshi71100]

Using a heat gun won’t do anything. Was recommended to bend it over my knee and hold it for a minute or two to try and straighten it out

bending it the other way did absolutely nothing! even taking 10/20min at the price of the blade, it's just a shame

 

[satoshi71100]

Using a heat gun won’t do anything. Was recommended to bend it over my knee and hold it for a minute or two to try and straighten it out

bending it the other way did absolutely nothing! even taking 10/20min at the price of the blade, it's just a shame ‍

 

[cgiaco]

Using a heat gun won’t do anything. Was recommended to bend it over my knee and hold it for a minute or two to try and straighten it out

OK, I would think heating it before bending it would help it take the change in shape better. Good luck!

 

[slaggedheap]

Weeks not months, about half are shipping to me next week with the rest week or two after

Any update on the installed ones? Thought they would be shipping by now but maybe I misunderstood or missed an update

 

[TheSaberTrade]

All blades vary in how straight they come. Just the nature of working with long, thin and flat injection molded parts.

Normally my blades are CNC out of a flat sheet but it’s also much more costly and time consuming on our end. But even then I can’t guarantee they are perfect or that they will stay perfect. Any of them that are considered too extreme are thrown out.

There are efforts that can be made such as bending a warped blade over your knee and holding it a minute or two to form the blade back straight. Only do this while outside the saber and before applying the decal as it can crease them and PLEASE DO NOT USE HEAT GUN. Room temp only.

If you believe your blade is just too extreme feel free to send me an email and I’ll see about swapping you out or getting you an upgrade.

I am planning a batch of longer and wider CNC machined blades. But these would be be heavier and less flexible for display and trooping and trooping only.

 

[cgiaco]

All blades vary in how straight they come. Just the nature of working with long, thin and flat injection molded parts.

Normally my blades are CNC out of a flat sheet but it’s also much more costly and time consuming on our end. But even then I can’t guarantee they are perfect or that they will stay perfect. Any of them that are considered too extreme are thrown out.

There are efforts that can be made such as bending a warped blade over your knee and holding it a minute or two to form the blade back straight. Only do this while outside the saber and before applying the decal as it can crease them and PLEASE DO NOT USE HEAT GUN. Room temp only.

If you believe your blade is just too extreme feel free to send me an email and I’ll see about swapping you out or getting you an upgrade.

I am planning a batch of longer and wider CNC machined blades. But these would be be heavier and less flexible for display and trooping and trooping only.

Good to know!

 

[Saberbay]

Using a heat gun won’t do anything. Was recommended to bend it over my knee and hold it for a minute or two to try and straighten it out

Just have to be in room temp room and this will fix any bend
Since these are durable and light they will bend in temperature change(in shipping, storing or Season change) but the over the knee fix does the trick

 

[PatMan26]

For anyone that did a self install, does this diagram appear to be correct. My saber won’t turn on after kill switch is flipped. Did I do something wrong? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[PatMan26]

For anyone that did a self install, does this diagram appear to be correct. My saber won’t turn on after kill switch is flipped. Did I do something wrong? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[PatMan26]

For anyone that did a self install, does this diagram appear to be correct. My saber won’t turn on after kill switch is flipped. Did I do something wrong? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks!

Sorry for the triple post, trying to get the picture to work.

 

[ARogo]

Sorry for the triple post, trying to get the picture to work.

Your diagram looks ok, do you have photos of your wiring?

 

[PatMan26]

Your diagram looks ok, do you have photos of your wiring?

 

[PatMan26]

Your diagram looks ok, do you have photos of your wiring?

View attachment 1704807

Your diagram looks ok, do you have photos of your wiring?

 

[VanPersie]

You seem to have two wires that have been left with too much exposed wiring that could cause shorts potentially.

Using same colour wires is making it more difficult to know whether each is in the right place.

Any noticeable damage on the mosfet?

 

[imawilliamray]

You seem to have two wires that have been left with too much exposed wiring that could cause shorts potentially.

Using same colour wires is making it more difficult to know whether each is in the right place.

Any noticeable damage on the mosfet?

Agreed on both the wire color and the exposed wire. As somebody still learning, having wire colors that are easily tracked down helps a lot.

Also, how is the bridged connection on the LED2 and LED3 pads? It is a little hard to tell from the picture, but I'm worried that may have overflowed to the chips next to it. If you plug the proffie into a computer is it recognized? I actually fried the proffie on my very first build getting too close to one of those with my iron.

 

[PatMan26]

Agreed on both the wire color and the exposed wire. As somebody still learning, having wire colors that are easily tracked down helps a lot.

Also, how is the bridged connection on the LED2 and LED3 pads? It is a little hard to tell from the picture, but I'm worried that may have overflowed to the chips next to it. If you plug the proffie into a computer is it recognized? I actually fried the proffie on my very first build getting too close to one of those with my iron.

Noted on the wires. Was going for style over function, probably not the smartest thing to do but live and learn. Yeah when I plug in the board it’s recognized but the sound coming from the speaker has heavy static. Doesn’t look like any solder got on any thing though. Can exposed wires be fixed or has everything potentially been fried?

 

[Bruinrogue]

Saberbay Any updates on the PDF? (Just wondering since I'm not in too big a rush because USPS lost my proffie v3 that I wanted to use for the install).

 

[VanPersie]

Noted on the wires. Was going for style over function, probably not the smartest thing to do but live and learn. Yeah when I plug in the board it’s recognized but the sound coming from the speaker has heavy static. Doesn’t look like any solder got on any thing though. Can exposed wires be fixed or has everything potentially been fried?

Can you list what you wired to which pads?

You’d have to desolder the pad, then push the wire through more then trim the excess, or isolate it with heatshrink or similar

The static is normal as it doesn’t power it enough to make it clear when plugged in

 

[PatMan26]

Can you list what you wired to which pads?

You’d have to desolder the pad, then push the wire through more then trim the excess, or isolate it with heatshrink or similar

The static is normal as it doesn’t power it enough to make it clear when plugged in

 

[greyrat]

Saberbay are/will there be anymore grips avaliable to buy?