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[ARogo]

I think these are all of them but let me know if I missed something.

Two in the pommel. I used a small amount of CA to keep them in. The non-vented pommel has two small aluminum plugs in lieu of the D ring.

The two large greeblies go here. They break fairly easily, so sand until they fit.

The two smaller ones go here. I broke one of these but had no trouble gluing it back together.

The four transparent resin pieces slide in after some light sanding. I chose not to glue them in. I wet sanded the exposed areas first to get rid of the 3d printing lines.

Two small copper rods here - the one in the emitter is a tight fit but it will go in. The one in the plug required the hole to be enlarged slightly. I also wet sanded the resin insert in the blade plug.

The buttons go together like sandwiches - one piece under and one over. I wet sanded the top of the transparent resin button to remove the printing lines. I also had to sand the underside of both buttons that come into contact with the electronic switches as the switch module wouldn't sit flat.

I think that's all of them?

 

[DrEximus]

I still want to make sure I have a correct wiring diagram, If anyone is willing to share theirs. I can solder but this is my first saber install with a proffie board and I'm just a little confused. Used the manual and looked at a lot of videos and this build in particular is worrying me.

 

[ARogo]

I still want to make sure I have a correct wiring diagram, If anyone is willing to share theirs. I can solder but this is my first saber install with a proffie board and I'm just a little confused. Used the manual and looked at a lot of videos and this build in particular is worrying me.

There are a handful of ways to wire it up and I didn’t create a diagram. You might want to post yours here for review.

 

[DrEximus]

There are a handful of ways to wire it up and I didn’t create a diagram. You might want to post yours here for review.

I have like three separate diagrams that I'll have to combine with some Photoshop and send. I sent a rudimentary one a fair few pages back but realized I still don't have everything I need to confidently wire it.

 

[Masefield]

I've been studying these pictures of the prop that were posted earlier in this thread. Are these inserts slight curved? It would be easy enough to sand my resin inserts to match, but I would like some other opinions here. Am I nuts?

 

[TheSweatshop]

I've been studying these pictures of the prop that were posted earlier in this thread. Are these inserts slight curved? It would be easy enough to sand my resin inserts to match, but I would like some other opinions here. Am I nuts?

From what I’m seeing, definitely! Good catch!

 

[DrEximus]

The parts I'm still confused on are which gauge to use on those two wires and how the button panel works, What is Do, Din, and Com. Do any wires go to those ports. And also the Pixels + and -. And what's the difference between those and White Leds + and -. The only ones I know are B1 and B2. So basically I'm most confused on how the wires are meant to go into the button panel and where those would go on the proffieboard.

 

[imawilliamray]

View attachment 1693048
The parts I'm still confused on are which gauge to use on those two wires and how the button panel works, What is Do, Din, and Com. Do any wires go to those ports. And also the Pixels + and -. And what's the difference between those and White Leds + and -. The only ones I know are B1 and B2. So basically I'm most confused on how the wires are meant to go into the button panel and where those would go on the proffieboard.

My understanding (hopefullly correct):

Din - data in to control pixels
Do - data out if you want to connect the pixels in series with more pixels
Com = button common. note in your wiring diagram the black common wire connecting the two buttons

There are two sets of LEDs on the switch PCB. Two regular white LEDs with the +/- pads on the top of the board and two pixels which are the pads on the bottom side of the board. I think if you're running the pixels you can ignore the white leds unless you want both (probably not necessary).

I'll probably be using 22awg for the blade power. The Proffieboard manual goes into some depth about choosing appropriate sized wires in the last couple pages. Check that out.

 

[fearofghsts]

Hey Justin. Any updates on the installations? Just curious if we are a couple months out or longer? Thanks! Saberbay

 

[Saberbay]

Hey Justin. Any updates on the installations? Just curious if we are a couple months out or longer? Thanks! Saberbay

Weeks not months, about half are shipping to me next week with the rest week or two after

 

[greyrat]

I've been studying these pictures of the prop that were posted earlier in this thread. Are these inserts slight curved? It would be easy enough to sand my resin inserts to match, but I would like some other opinions here. Am I nuts?

To my eye that curvature is underneath the polymer. I've used my advanced skills in paint to illustrate.

Both are a profile view, the one we've recieved is on the left.

 

[Masefield]

To my eye that curvature is underneath the polymer. I've used my advanced skills in paint to illustrate.

View attachment 1693430

Both are a profile view, the one we've recieved is on the left.

That's a really good thought and explains better what I'm seeing. I wish we had some clearer pictures. I don't have a resin printer, so I'm going to see if I can track down some plexiglass and experiment. It's a subtle detail for certain, but a cool one in my opinion. Thank you!

 

[greyrat]

That's a really good thought and explains better what I'm seeing. I wish we had some clearer pictures. I don't have a resin printer, so I'm going to see if I can track down some plexiglass and experiment. It's a subtle detail for certain, but a cool one in my opinion. Thank you!

Literally been researching how to get translucent prints with FDM printers; seems more than doable.

 

[Masefield]

Literally been researching how to get translucent prints with FDM printers; seems more than doable.

If you figure it out, please set me up. I'll gladly order a set from you!

 

[TheSweatshop]

Literally been researching how to get translucent prints with FDM printers; seems more than doable.

I might have to model and resin print it, unless someone beats me to it.

 

[DrEximus]

My understanding (hopefullly correct):

Din - data in to control pixels
Do - data out if you want to connect the pixels in series with more pixels
Com = button common. note in your wiring diagram the black common wire connecting the two buttons

There are two sets of LEDs on the switch PCB. Two regular white LEDs with the +/- pads on the top of the board and two pixels which are the pads on the bottom side of the board. I think if you're running the pixels you can ignore the white leds unless you want both (probably not necessary).

I'll probably be using 22awg for the blade power. The Proffieboard manual goes into some depth about choosing appropriate sized wires in the last couple pages. Check that out.

I see, so Com just attaches the two buttons meaning I only have to run one wire out of it instead of two from each button.
I'm still not sure where Do and Din run into the board. I don't have any extra pixel strip to put on the board since I didn't want that in my build. So do I not need to run any wires from them in that case or are they for the button pixels, or something else? Please excuse my excessive questioning, I just want to make sure I'm doing this right.

 

[ARogo]

I see, so Com just attaches the two buttons meaning I only have to run one wire out of it instead of two from each button.
I'm still not sure where Do and Din run into the board. I don't have any extra pixel strip to put on the board since I didn't want that in my build. So do I not need to run any wires from them in that case or are they for the button pixels, or something else? Please excuse my excessive questioning, I just want to make sure I'm doing this right.

You’ll need to run 2 or 3 data lines. 1 to the main blade, 1 to the crystal LED, and 1 to the switch board. The data lines send information to the pixels. You can run one data line from the proffie to the crystal then solder a wire from the Do to the Din of the switch board and chain them like that. If you are running 3 separate data lines from the proffie, you don’t need to worry about the Data out on any of the pixels. The two accents cannot chain with the main blade, since it’s RGBw.

 

[MMcFett]

can anyone confirm that this is correct wiring on the blade?

And hilt PCB?

 

[ARogo]

View attachment 1693912can anyone confirm that this is correct wiring on the blade?

Unfortunately, no. Black goes to Din, blue goes to -.

 

[MMcFett]

Unfortunately, no. Black goes to Din, blue goes to -.

Ok so I swap those and probably the ones on the hilt side too?