Rustoleum or Krylon Primer?

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haloboyvash

Member
I am getting ready to start painting on my model kit and I was wondering what I should do.

I know I need to clean the parts in soapy water... but do I need to also lightly sand the entire piece or no? Once Primed does it need to be sealed then painted? Any info on the painting process would be greatly appreciated!

BUT the main question is primers.... I don't have an airbrush yet so I will will be using a spray aerosol primer.

I was wondering what's your guys favorite primers to use for models, whether it's rustoleum or krylon and why. Or if you use something else I would like to know. Just doing all my homework first before I start spraying anything on this kit.
 

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BLACKULA727

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I use both & both are nice. However if I'm going to mold it, I use the krylon. I've heard that rustoleum has fish oil in it and it can cause silicone to not cure. So, I don't take the chance.
 

moffeaton

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Tamiya.

I used to like Plastikote T-235 gray, but they changed the formula and ruined my life!!
 

REL

Sr Member
If I can't get Tamiya, Duplicolor Filler Primer is the next best thing. I don't use the Plastikote anymore because they changed the nozzle and I don't like it.
 
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moffeaton

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Yeah, it spits and sputters like it has a croupy cough. Plus, it now likes to peel off of the lower grade resins. Which apparently every one uses.

I miss the old formula with the red caps!!
 

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SteveNeill

Sr Member
All right guys here's my two cents.

I live in California where everything is practically banded. I wish the people banding everything would get banded themselves! Anyway. I use to use Dupont 131s. You got it it got banded.

OK. So I used tamya for awhile but then you can't get that either for some reason. Earthquakes and stuff like that they tell me.

Haven't tried the stuff you guys are talking about now and I will if it hasn't been set fire to or banned.

But I have used Krylon. A real stinker and takes far too long to dry to sand.

On the other hand I have used the Rustoleum with marginal success and no, it won't react or imped the setting up of silicone. The 32 molds I just did for my 66 inch TOS Enterprise tells me so. They all came out fine and didn't react to the Rustoleum. Not remotely so that's an old wise tale if I've ever heard one.

And the man is right. the cans can some times spit and send little chunks of paint out on to your surface but at least they sand down well and fast.

Richard is right of course but if you have to use a rattle can and had only the two choices use the Rustoleum.

Steve
 

haloboyvash

Member
That sounds interesting as well... I would prefer a air brush but I just don't have one at the moment.

Hmmm got my mind a wondering now.
 

SteveNeill

Sr Member
Well go look at my half scale TOS Enterprise thread. It's the one with over dare say 70 thousand hits now and toward the end is a 17 part series of videos with your's truly the nut case molding the masters blow by blow. They were all shot over with the Rustoleum.

Steve
 

Underdog

Sr Member
Well go look at my half scale TOS Enterprise thread. It's the one with over dare say 70 thousand hits now and toward the end is a 17 part series of videos with your's truly the nut case molding the masters blow by blow. They were all shot over with the Rustoleum.

Steve
Agreed. I use some of the cheap dollar stuff for prelim coats, just to sand and smooth, but use Rustoleum a lot. It's some good stuff.
 

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SteveNeill

Sr Member
Automotive Primer Fast Drying Wet Sandable is the full name. I get it at Home Depot in the paint section. 4 bucks a can. Shake well. Then shake again. Spray first until you get a reliable consistency on a test surface. Don't go to heavy juts use a light coat, let it dry a bit followed by more coats. You can Sand the same day if you don't build it up too fast and too thick. Experiment first.

Steve
 

REL

Sr Member
The best readily available, cheap primer you can get anywhere, in my opinion, is Duplicolor Filler Primer. It's acres above Rustoleum or Krylon as it's lacquer based, but as Steve said it might not be available everywhere as some areas ban lacquer based paints. It also has one of the best nozzles of any automotive rattlecan primer which lays the paint on in a fan pattern, almost like a mist.

This was primered with Duplicolor.



And something like this with a lot of detail I would usually go with Mr Surfacer, or Tamiya primer, but since neither was available I used Duplicolor. No rough surface, no wet sanding necessary. Dries like silk.

 

SteveNeill

Sr Member
Be glad you don't live out here Richard. It...well...sucks and they are trying to band all lacquers, my flying field, running boats out the local lakes and much more.

Steve
 

moffeaton

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
The West coast needs to get it's head outta it's butt. Banning McDonalds Happy Meals, plastic bags, and scale models on lakes? They going to ban circumcision and HAPPINESS next? (fun fact™ - "circumcision" and "happiness" rarely appear in the same sentence)
 

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robn1

Master Member
I've used the Duplicolor and it is good stuff. I also tried the Ace Premium recently based on someone's recommendation here and I like it too, very smooth.

Which brand/type depends on what you're doing. A scratch built master needs some filling, so a thick type primer is good. But a finished piece with a lot of detail that only needs a good base for painting is better off with the smooth lacquer type primer.

And I second what REL said about the fan spray nozzles, they really allow you to make a smooth light spray. I've been saving the good nozzles from empty cans, when I get a can with a crappy nozzle I replace it with one of the good ones.
 

haloboyvash

Member
Thanks for this wealth of knowledge, I believe I will check in my local Advanced Auto Parts.. I think the carry the Duplicolor Filler Primer. If I had to go with anything else I would have to buy it online and wait on shipping.

The piece I already have is in fact a finished piece so this primer should work best on this application? If I have something that is scratch built what would you recommend?
 

SteveNeill

Sr Member
The West coast needs to get it's head outta it's butt. Banning McDonalds Happy Meals, plastic bags, and scale models on lakes? They going to ban circumcision and HAPPINESS next? (fun fact™ - "circumcision" and "happiness" rarely appear in the same sentence)

Arggg!!!!!My favorite one is when the local home owners banned and radio controlled slope soaring sight because of the model airplane engine noise?? WTH?? gliders don't have engines.

Steve
 

Logan Cade

Well-Known Member
Dupli-Color Filler Primer is my choice for the best out there for modeling. It goes on light and silky and sands very easily. Works on everything. I’ve even used it on wood to fill grain. See Here

I’ve always found it at Walmart for about 3-4 dollars a can, trick is; look in the automotive section for it, not the paint aisle.

 

SteveNeill

Sr Member
Dupli-Color Filler Primer is my choice for the best out there for modeling. It goes on light and silky and sands very easily. Works on everything. I’ve even used it on wood to fill grain. See Here

I’ve always found it at Walmart for about 3-4 dollars a can, trick is; look in the automotive section for it, not the paint aisle.

In California? Please. Or am I dreaming. :lol Maybe could be?

Steve
 

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