Limited Run RUN CLOSED * DL-44 ESB Blaster Machined Parts Set * RUN CLOSED

If you look closely at the placement of the fasteners to the left and right of the centerline of the pistons in this picture it looks like the forward one is not as far under the pistons as the back one.







My shop came up with a simple solution, a slot instead of 2 separate counter bores.

This will allow the individual to attach the screws in what ever location they deem appropriate. I do not plan on drilling holes for this detail. I will cut the threaded body off the screw and epoxy the head in the correct location.



Here are the 2 ways it can be done, please discuss:

 
So, we're thinking the side screw heads are partially covered by the pistons and not inset? Coverage gives an interesting look in my opinion. Coverage implies the screws were installed first and then covered by the pistons on top. Inset implies the pistons were installed and then the screws were used to stabilize or add detail. Hmmm....
 
Is drilling and bolting them instead of gluing on heads out of the question at this point? I always prefer mechanical connections... The piston could still slide forward or backwards over the heads.
 
Bear in mind the pistons are hollow plastic model kit parts.

This is why I think a slot is more accurate.. ? I'm leaning that way :)


P.s. just saw "The Film" Lots more to replicate there ! can't wait :)
 
So, we're thinking the side screw heads are partially covered by the pistons and not inset? Coverage gives an interesting look in my opinion. Coverage implies the screws were installed first and then covered by the pistons on top. Inset implies the pistons were installed and then the screws were used to stabilize or add detail. Hmmm....

Yes, if you look at the picture you can clearly see the back screw head is covered up by the piston as it the piston on top of it


Bear in mind the pistons are hollow plastic model kit parts.

They may have use resin cast but you never know.




Is drilling and bolting them instead of gluing on heads out of the question at this point? I always prefer mechanical connections... The piston could still slide forward or backwards over the heads.


The mausers will be drilled for the 2 center vertical screws and you could drill it for the 2 side screws if you wanted too, but I don't think the 2 side screws should be pre drilled because opinion will vary on what is correct.

Half of the back screw is covered up but you can see more of the front screw and it is partial obscured by the piston radius.

I like idealized props so mine will both be centered, however, others might want the front screw to be more exposed and the extent of that exposure is open to debate so there is no way the shop pre-drill the side screw holes in a cost effective way that would make everyone happy


I'm getting a quote to have a disk made from aluminum that is the same diameter and height and the pan head screw I plan to use toy the front it will just have flat sides.

I will email the group to get the number required but you won't have to pay for it until it's time to pay for the other miscellaneous hardware and shipping
 
I understand the difficulty. Could idealized, centered drilled/tapped holes with real bolts rather than epoxied heads potentially be an add-on option? For me, it'd be worth investing in, but isn't something I would do myself.
 
I'm fine with either option but I think from an assembly stand point the slot would be slightly harder to deal with because the screw head wouldn't have anything to brace against (I'm assuming the removal of the threaded part and only using the head). But on the other hand the slot allows for a more custom positioning and a small strip of styrene could be fit into the back of the slot to give a back support for the head positioning. Removing the heads of screws is also kind of a pain in the a**.
 
I understand the difficulty. Could idealized, centered drilled/tapped holes with real bolts rather than epoxied heads potentially be an add-on option? For me, it'd be worth investing in, but isn't something I would do myself.




I will offer drilled side holes / piston attachment as an optional service in the $5 price range, I have to do it once to figure out how much of a PITA is first.






I'm fine with either option but I think from an assembly stand point the slot would be slightly harder to deal with because the screw head wouldn't have anything to brace against (I'm assuming the removal of the threaded part and only using the head). But on the other hand the slot allows for a more custom positioning and a small strip of styrene could be fit into the back of the slot to give a back support for the head positioning. Removing the heads of screws is also kind of a pain in the a**.



I really don't think the epoxy method will be that hard.

Apply dab of epoxy to each side of the slot, set the screw head and disk in place, set the pistons over them and install the center mounting screws loosely, adjust the side screw head and disk and tighten the mounting screws.


The epoxy will also help secure the pistons to the mauser and the squeeze out should flow into the rest of the slot instead squeezing out from the edges of the pistons as it has in the past.
 
I do not like the slot idea and would rather have either milled screw holes (as originally planned) or nothing...




The end result will be the same so I don't understand why you seem so upset. Actually now each person has the option to adjust the fastener heads as they see fit so this way is better in that respect.





Originally it was assumed the side counter bores were cut in from the side which meant this part could be machined in 2 set ups -

1 to remove the material from the back

1 to drill the center holes and side counter bores.


Once I had a piston unit on had I tried the side cut method and it would not have looked right. So I discuss cutting them from the bottom with the shop. The problem with that was it required 3 set ups, the 3rd would be to flip them over to cut the counter bores.

Because this was unexpected the shop heavily discounted the cost for the machine time but even at the discounted prices cutting 2 separate counter bores added $8 to the cost of each piston and cutting the slot added $4.


So I weighed all the info and went with the slot and I will cover the additional cost since it was something I overlooked.




HOWEVER, I do have extra non slotted piston units and you can swap them out with the slotted unit if you want to have the counter bores cut separately. If you can not do it I'm sure Scott or Vince can do it for you.




I have the next week off and I have some personal stuff to sort out but at some point I will mount a set of pistons on a Denix and post updated pictures to this thread.
 
Boba,
Just to be clear, I'm not at all upset... I was just expressing my preference. Please don't read anything more into that post. I appreciate everything you've done for this complicated project! I am not upset or dissatisfied in any way, just expressing my opinion on the forum. I just have a certain idea in my head (which could be completely wrong) of how some parts should look. My concern re: this part was that the slot would be too visible from the side if the side screw isn't set significantly within it and setting the screw within it obscures the screw too much for my liking, that's all. I appreciate & accept your offer of a non-slotted piston. Again, thanks for all your efforts!
 
Boba,
Just to be clear, I'm not at all upset... I was just expressing my preference. Please don't read anything more into that post. I appreciate everything you've done for this complicated project! I am not upset or dissatisfied in any way, just expressing my opinion on the forum. I just have a certain idea in my head (which could be completely wrong) of how some parts should look. My concern re: this part was that the slot would be too visible from the side if the side screw isn't set significantly within it and setting the screw within it obscures the screw too much for my liking, that's all. I appreciate & accept your offer of a non-slotted piston. Again, thanks for all your efforts!


Sorry if I read to much tone into your post.

You would have the same issue with the counter bore unless I had intentionally made it shallow on the front side, then there would have been a huge on how shallow to make it even though there is no conclusive information about that detail.

This area is so small that by the time to paint and weather the blaster any gap will be unnoticeable. If you look at the picture it looks like they ue a lot of epoxy in that area and I'm sure I am sure of you go 1/2 covered in the back and 1/3 covered in the front it will look great.


Please email me with your piston change info so I have a better way to track that change.
 
I keep reading this thread and keep wondering if I made the right decision not getting a set of pistons for the Bespin blaster...
 
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