Limited Run RUN CLOSED * DL-44 ESB Blaster Machined Parts Set * RUN CLOSED

I have received some emails asking for projected ship dates for the kits and parts. At this time there is no way to estimate that because the last 2 machining processes are odd and they are still being worked out.

Here is the status of each phase -



Machined Flash Hiders / Scope Bracket Disks / Scope Bracket Spacers – Complete and binned (binned means the parts are in each members bin)



Machined Scope Brackets – in the queue at the machine shop. The code could not be written until they had the scopes and could verify that the real scope mounting hole spacing would work on the replicas.

I do not have a solid completion date but should have them before Christmas.



Brass Scopes and Pistons – The roughs are complete and the machine shop received them yesterday. They had a free machine so they are machining the back of the pistons today.

We need to work out the side counter bore dimensions before they do the rest but that does not impact any scheduling because it was always separate process.

It was just lucky that they were able to do the backs today.

Now that they have the scopes they can check the overall average size of the them and determine the best way to machine them. These were made in batches so variation could how they are machined and so we had to wait until we had all of them.

The scopes and the final process on the pistons will be the next item machined once the scope brackets are done.

I also noticed some talk about Black Oxidized Steel Scope Bolts. I am getting the cost of these and if it is the same I may go that route instead of brass.







Denix Mausers – These will be done last. Once the scope brackets are done I will use them to determine the placement of the parts mounting holes for each eversion – Bespin and Hoth.

Then I will send them to the shop for processing.


Plaques – They are done and binned


Glass Lenses for the Scopes / Resin Parts / Hardware kits – I have the glass lenses for the scopes. Vince is providing the resin parts and he normally has a pretty quick turnaround time. I will figure out the hardware once I have the scope brackets on hand to put the blasters together.

I will not ask anyone to pay for these parts until I do the final shipping invoice. On that invoice you will also be able to add optional finishing services from a menu that I will figure out once I have everything on hand.

These services will range from removing the front site post up to fully finished blasters. It is entirely up to you.



FINAL SHIPPING PROCESS - Most of you know how this works but I will cover it for the new members. Prior to shipping anything I will send you a list of parts that I think you ordered and I will ask you to confirm your order and your address.

Because I do this I normally work the easiest orders first, that way I can the most parts out. Then I handle orders that include labor services and I work those from the easiest to most involved. I do this so I can devote the most time to the most involved orders, I would not want to rush a full build up just to get it out quick





I know this is a lot to take in so if you have any questions please post them below

Thanks
 
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David, if the flash hiders are done, can I get the two that I ordered shipped out?

They were the only items purchased. (for custom projects)
 
I've totally missed the resin parts in the project, would It still be possible to throw in one distributor retainer?
 
I noticed a discussion about the scope mounting bolts being made of steel with a black oxide coating.

I called the shop and had them quote the bolts in that way instead of brass and the difference is only 32 cents per bolt which comes out to $64 for the entire quantity that we need.

Doing a split run would be a PITA so I am going with what the majority decides.

If we change to Steel with a Black Oxide coating I will just add that expense to the hardware kits that everyone will pay for during the shipping phase.


I just sent a group email requesting that everyone reply to that email with their choice so I can easy determine what the group wants.

If you did not receive that email contact me at bobadebt@ec.rr.com






WE also need to figure out the size of the hardware they use for the side mounting bolts on the pistons.

I’m pretty sure I use a #8 phillips screw for the center bolts and I think the side bolt are a different style but the same diameter and it looks like only 1/3 of the screw head is overlapping the side of the piston


PLEASE DISCUSS



 
I replied back with steel. I personally don't mind paying the extra 32 cents for the anodize. I like the idea of the bolts being steel, less chance of damaging the soft thread of the brass screw. these are just my personal beliefs

if we decided not to change to steel anodize it doesn't bother me either and I'm still on board. I just like the idea of steel. also can scratch it up and make it rust, give it the more "used feel"


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what's oxidized coating?

we don't have a problem with anodizing R2D2 aluminum frames, and there's many 4-40 thread holes in that frame.

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I like the idea of the bolts being steel, less chance of damaging the soft thread of the brass screw. these are just my personal beliefs

I originally asked this in my thread for the accuracy of my selfmade parts.

On the other side the danger of ruining the threading due to overtightening is always there. And a steelbolt ruining the inner threading in the bronzecast is causing a less repairable damage than a damaged brass bolt that could be replaced easily.

So you better should be carefull not to ruin the threading in your cast scopes due to using much force.
 
Just don't overtighten the dagummed things, you guys! I mean, how many times are y'all gonna be taking the bolts on and off? Maybe once or twice? ;)

Anodizing is for aluminum, black oxide is for steel. It's more of a matte finish than anodizing. You can't anodize steel.
 
thanks for the advice guys. have we come to a conclusion on the bolts?


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I'd be happy either way, honestly.

If they're brass, you can darken the heck out of them by putting them in a container with some ammonia.
 
I sent a reply back to the email voting for the black oxidized steel. For an extra .32 per bolt, why not? It's an insignificant cost compared ot the rest of the build for what I would consider an upgrade.

Anyone have a good reason not to?
 
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