Edit, after a few requests I’ll be making more! they have come out cleaner lately but I need to re make the molds. If I do this… will people buy them? I finished a few for someone the other day, but they were leftovers. I pulled out the molds and they are not working very well… 5 failed casts in a row, so I need to buy silicone…
These are the tips I have made, so I’m buying caps and the resin casts are the next hurdle.
Edit 10/20/21
I got 20 bushings in so I started prepping scopes and I'll be ready for orders!
I have more coming, and I'm going to make as much as I can with what I have.
Again, they are all sort-of raw. They need some cleanup and are wonky, being made by hand, which is very accurate to the filming props. The plastic caps are fragile, so they may be scuffed, scratched, etc. but some cleanup and paint or plain old Pledge/wax will take care of that.
Edit 9/23/21
Okay folks. The scopes are reliably pretty good. Like I said, i'm your average prop replica maker so I'm pretty proud of these. Solid Onyx resin, including flanges for the scope ring and the front cap. I have to cut or drill a notch for each cap's screw, and install some sort of attachment for the cap. Button head wood screws are on their way, and I'll judge them... if they're too ugly, I'll drill a hole to thin the upper wall ONLY, and pop-rivet it. So, centered but high positioned, I won't bore out the whole scope body
There are consistently bubbles in the rim, that is a complicated part of the mold and I can't seem to get rid of them. I recommend Apoxie sculpt or the baking soda and super glue trick for the tiniest of holes. Apoxie works great though and bonds to resin. I've used it on every single resin piece I've worked on and loved it, just smear it in like clay.
The scopes could all use an 800 grit (or so, your call) light sanding. Try not to remove the details, but the surface could always be polished.
Okay everyone, I'm moving forward on this enough to start taking names! I will try to continue this run as long as I can gets materials ... so I will do this in pieces, as some are easier to put together than others..
For those unaware, I'm able to slap together a close enough approximation of the front of those fabricated scopes from Return of the Jedi. We don't have the cap IDed yet, and there are old film canisters that are pretty close. I've been able to take them into my shop and shape them into a pretty good representation of the scope.
www.therpf.com
1) Caps: trim, shape and finish, including score marks, I make my own injection molding point and drill and tap a mounting hole for the tip.
2) Tip:
For an attachment, I don't have a lathe to bore out an offset hole for a rivet to be used. I have found little socket wood screws that would hold it well and look the part.
here is the original I’ll be working from. Molding the scope tomorrow
I still need to order special boxes for these to protect them, and still waiting on the brass and top screws as of the first post
The real scope tips do bend back a little. This is due to the thin bottom of the cap, and not something I know how to correct, but at least it's accurate
Please let me know what you're in for. Right now I have LIMITED quantity of the caps, so I will turn those into complete fronts. I am always open to requests...extra or less things
So, you can order any of the following (in USD, not including shipping)
LIMITED - as long I can find caps I will continue to add slots
~full scope: bell + tip + cap = 60
~full front only: tip + cap = 35
~shaped cap only 15
UNLIMITED
~full tip only 20
~resin knob with a pilot hole 6 (I have lots of these)
~carved front screw only (with vintage nut for free until they run out) 6
~brass bushing only 8
~resin scope bell only 25
These are all made by hand and I've gotten quite good. Things might be off by a few mm, have marks on them and be a little wonky, which is very accurate to the original props - none of these are done on high quality equipment. A Drill press and mini/large miter saw and my hand tools only. Bubbles will exist, most likely in the rim of the scope, typical for resin casts. I suggest a spin of high-grit sandpaper (800 or above) and a dusting of Rustoleum Satin Black if the texture is not smooth enough for your liking on the scope casts.
I can probably ship these for less than five bucks in the US, they don't weigh very much.
CLAIM YOUR CAPS! with details please!
other orders:
~
~
~
~
~
~
~
my paypal is t.delmonte9@gmail.com
please include your address in the Paypal notes!
and add %2.89 if using goods and services. If you already know me you can use friends and family
There is a decent lead time for now
I'm not taking payments yet!!! I'll message you as yours is completed and continue to update this thread
These are the tips I have made, so I’m buying caps and the resin casts are the next hurdle.
Edit 10/20/21
I got 20 bushings in so I started prepping scopes and I'll be ready for orders!
I have more coming, and I'm going to make as much as I can with what I have.
Again, they are all sort-of raw. They need some cleanup and are wonky, being made by hand, which is very accurate to the filming props. The plastic caps are fragile, so they may be scuffed, scratched, etc. but some cleanup and paint or plain old Pledge/wax will take care of that.
Edit 9/23/21
Okay folks. The scopes are reliably pretty good. Like I said, i'm your average prop replica maker so I'm pretty proud of these. Solid Onyx resin, including flanges for the scope ring and the front cap. I have to cut or drill a notch for each cap's screw, and install some sort of attachment for the cap. Button head wood screws are on their way, and I'll judge them... if they're too ugly, I'll drill a hole to thin the upper wall ONLY, and pop-rivet it. So, centered but high positioned, I won't bore out the whole scope body
There are consistently bubbles in the rim, that is a complicated part of the mold and I can't seem to get rid of them. I recommend Apoxie sculpt or the baking soda and super glue trick for the tiniest of holes. Apoxie works great though and bonds to resin. I've used it on every single resin piece I've worked on and loved it, just smear it in like clay.
The scopes could all use an 800 grit (or so, your call) light sanding. Try not to remove the details, but the surface could always be polished.
Okay everyone, I'm moving forward on this enough to start taking names! I will try to continue this run as long as I can gets materials ... so I will do this in pieces, as some are easier to put together than others..
For those unaware, I'm able to slap together a close enough approximation of the front of those fabricated scopes from Return of the Jedi. We don't have the cap IDed yet, and there are old film canisters that are pretty close. I've been able to take them into my shop and shape them into a pretty good representation of the scope.
ROTJ Fabricated Scopes
I have a feeling the front part of the scope may come from a cut down plastic film cannister. The dimensions differentiate slightly from manufacturer but on average are about 33-35mm diameter, which is what I approximated when I used photogrammetry techniques to 3d model the scope.
www.therpf.com
1) Caps: trim, shape and finish, including score marks, I make my own injection molding point and drill and tap a mounting hole for the tip.
2) Tip:
a) I have a handful of the original found parts for the knurled section. I prepped them for installation and molded them, I've been casting tips in Onyx resin
b) Hand machined brass countersunk bushing. The original ones are a strange size and have striations on them, so instead of finding a new part... I carve them up myself.
c) Hand carved vintage 10-32 screw (and nut - limited quantity) I use a dremel and metal files to carve the tip to the shape we see on the props in the film. This part is kind of fun and I have a LOT of screws
3) I also have found a good size and shape scope to use as the back half. I'm going to do a 2 part mold and cast this darned thing. It will include 2 hand made flanges to fit the 1 inch scope ring and raise the cap to correct heightFor an attachment, I don't have a lathe to bore out an offset hole for a rivet to be used. I have found little socket wood screws that would hold it well and look the part.
here is the original I’ll be working from. Molding the scope tomorrow
I still need to order special boxes for these to protect them, and still waiting on the brass and top screws as of the first post
The real scope tips do bend back a little. This is due to the thin bottom of the cap, and not something I know how to correct, but at least it's accurate
Please let me know what you're in for. Right now I have LIMITED quantity of the caps, so I will turn those into complete fronts. I am always open to requests...extra or less things
So, you can order any of the following (in USD, not including shipping)
LIMITED - as long I can find caps I will continue to add slots
~full scope: bell + tip + cap = 60
~full front only: tip + cap = 35
~shaped cap only 15
UNLIMITED
~full tip only 20
~resin knob with a pilot hole 6 (I have lots of these)
~carved front screw only (with vintage nut for free until they run out) 6
~brass bushing only 8
~resin scope bell only 25
These are all made by hand and I've gotten quite good. Things might be off by a few mm, have marks on them and be a little wonky, which is very accurate to the original props - none of these are done on high quality equipment. A Drill press and mini/large miter saw and my hand tools only. Bubbles will exist, most likely in the rim of the scope, typical for resin casts. I suggest a spin of high-grit sandpaper (800 or above) and a dusting of Rustoleum Satin Black if the texture is not smooth enough for your liking on the scope casts.
I can probably ship these for less than five bucks in the US, they don't weigh very much.
CLAIM YOUR CAPS! with details please!
- Darth Wilder - full scope
- Darth Wilder - full scope
- Mgoob - full front
- Mgoob
- Mgoob
- Mgoob
- Mgoob
- Cantina_dude - full scope
- Jonis - full scope
- Starbuc - Front (full)
- Starbuc - Front (full)
- Slave1
- Roy - Full scope
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
- -
other orders:
~
~
~
~
~
~
~
my paypal is t.delmonte9@gmail.com
please include your address in the Paypal notes!
and add %2.89 if using goods and services. If you already know me you can use friends and family
There is a decent lead time for now
I'm not taking payments yet!!! I'll message you as yours is completed and continue to update this thread
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