I used the back edge of an xacto blade to score right in the corner of the step. Just basically held the xacto with one hand and spun the cone with the other until I could see the score line from the outside. Then I did one final pass with the blade.Curious teecrooz and Mr Mold Maker what tools you adopted to cut the adapter cone?
Wall seems thin enough for a variety; but I think do’s and dont’s would be helpful if you have opinions
Out of curiosity, how large are those windows in the vintage Kango, Chris? I had a dickens of a time trying to bend the vintage dynodes over Roy's replica, and I'm wondering if the larger window would make the task easier.Drilled the pilot holes. Need to pick up a new endmill because the hole size I want is in between the two sizes I had.
*update, new endmills ordered so I can make larger holes.
I also cut the housing down to size. Wasn't sure I wanted to but I guess I’m all in on finishing this thing now.
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Interesting pointOut of curiosity, how large are those windows in the vintage Kango, Chris? I had a dickens of a time trying to bend the vintage dynodes over Roy's replica, and I'm wondering if the larger window would make the task easier.
Thanks for the tip. I actually tried that very approach thinking the screws themselves would bend the dynode as needed, but the screw holes weren't quite positioned in the exact spot where the holes are on the dynode so I ended up having to pre-bend them and then use the screws to create new holes in the Kango.Interesting point
(On my replica kit from Roy I actually didn’t pre bend my dynodes, I used the screws, got them going a little bit… And then screwed them in incrementally until they seated which bent it around the radius of the housing. They don’t slip anyway due to the friction and luckily the print quality is great so it stands up to the amount of resistance)
Gotcha, maybe I got lucky with my dynodes from RoyThanks for the tip. I actually tried that very approach thinking the screws themselves would bend the dynode as needed, but the screw holes weren't quite positioned in the exact spot where the holes are on the dynode so I ended up having to pre-bend them and then use the screws to create new holes in the Kango.