ROTJ detonator charges

roygilsing

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I had the pleasure of holding the screen used prop in my hands yesterday!
Have a look at that bottom. There's a cone on the inside, just as I predicted in my replica. So the Kango part doesn't extend to the bottom but is cut off higher and then an inner and outer cone were added. The question is why?

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thd9791

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
is that countersunk screw on the ledge in the plastruct cone, or is there a "floor"?

Also, can't tell what the inner cone is made from, were you able to?

thank you for sharing!!!
 

BlandoCalrssian

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
My first thought would be a magnet embedded inside the inner cone in order to attach the prop to the ceiling. Then again, the shot of Han attaching the bomb to the ceiling may have been filmed upside down so such a thing may not even have been necessary :unsure:
 

roygilsing

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
My thought is that the bottom (with central countersunk slotted brass screw) had an adhesive layer which is now covered with the paper.

The inner cone is sitting on a flat surface in between. The slotted screws are in that flat surface. It's grey and possible a Plastruct part as well, just like both cones (likely coming from the same cone part.
 

3251bimmer

Jr Member
Broke down the vintage parts build in an attempt to make it even more accurate. With the help of roygilsing first hand account of the real prop, as well as checking out my theories with his overlays and dimensions, we have discovered how the prop, including the bottom was assembled. Going to continue to refine and then will share more results so everyone can replicate!

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3251bimmer

Jr Member
All updates completed and I believe the bottom assembly (and some other findings) have finally been uncovered!
So based on new photographs and first hand feedback from roygilsing, I was able to formulate a theory about how the bottom was assembled. I drew up a quick model to visualize and was off to search for a Plastruct disc or ring (based on the photo evidence I knew I was looking for a Plastruct Part).


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I scoured every single part offered by Plastruct and then checked my work against their catalog, but the effort was hallow; so I contacted Plastruct and some distributors to assist. I received confirmation that the disc(s) I was searching for did not exist in the sizes I needed. So I returned to the real prop images to see what else I could see.


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On thing is that the disc we are looking for sits in the inner skirt lip, not flush with it… so the disc/plate in question had to be thinner than the ledge of the skirt… and there it was! Plastruct has generic ABS sheets that would have been used, I imagine, across studio models etc and would have been plentiful… the discs we are looking for may have already been cut and been “scrap” from other models… while this was anticlimactic, I decided to give it a try and ordered some.


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While waiting for the new sheets to arrive, we started to examine the inner cone. To me, it appeared that the base of the inner cone was immediately cut from the top of the skirt. roygilsing did some overlays to the screen used prop and found that it was approx 2mm smaller than the real part??? We couldn’t cut back one more step in the cone or it would be too small… did they use a different cone for the inner assembly - didn’t make a lot of sense as the discarded top cone would have already been available. Then a lightbulb… just like the upper plate, the lower plate would be thinner than the inner step. If the cone was sanded back in order to make the disc flush, this would reduce the OD ~2mm matching what Roys overlays were telling us.


The Plastruct Sheets arrived and were what appeared to be a match. I cut the top disc (about 88.9mm) and the lower disc (about 76.3mm) and then sanded back the ledge of the inner cone to allow the lower disc to sit flush, making the total height of the cone around 19.6mm. Holes will drilled in the center of each disc to allow for an M4 screw to pass in order to lock the assembly together and here were the initial results… I was now convinced we were on the right path!!!

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roygilsing took all this and created a cleaner model based on the real parts and then cross checked them against the overlays to confirm everything was a match!

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4 screws, about 90 degrees apart, were added to the upper disc to allow it to screw into the bottom of the reduced Kango Body. While working through the finishing touches on the bottom, I began thinking about roygilsing ’s description of the very top plate that holds the greeblies; “its covered in foil”. Well since 2 discs were already created for the bottom, it seemed very plausible that a 3rd was made for the top, so I did just this, added foil tape, and then drilled the required holes for the pot switch and LEDs. A side note on the LEDs, those were also upgraded after kurtyboy reached out to me. I was informed that Camdonboss LEDs were used for both Vaders Belt and the Carbonite Panels… this seemed enough evidence to me to give them a try on the Bunker and I think the results are just perfect!

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Hope this wasn’t too long and it helps other in their builds!
 

kurtyboy

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Excellent build 3251bimmer

I'm sunk at the start. I can't figure out how to get the Kango part out! I removed all the visible screws but can't see how to get at it. Can someone help me please?
 

teecrooz

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
kurtyboy, some people have cut the housing, but if you keep the motor partially assembled so that the center shaft is still in place and the tan plastic part is still screwed on, you can elevate the housing and hammer on the shaft. The pushing of the shaft onto the tan housing part will pull the orange housing out with it.

Keep this part screwed to the orange housing.
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Hammer downward onto center shaft. Maybe use something more robust than a screwdriver…
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CatfoodRob

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Cutting them open prevents scratches down the part you want to save . Kurtboy, if you are struggling send your kango down to Simon at rs props , I’ll collect it from him and extract the gold for you .
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roygilsing

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
roygilsing, will you be making any updates to your bunker bomb kit from your shop, based on your new findings?
For now no. The only difference that is worth modifying would be the shape of the inside cone in the bottom. But that's only a tiny bit different. I never thought it would be made from the same part as the outside skirt/cone. When assembled you can hardly tell the difference.
My main body is still more precise than the Kango parts because my replica has the proper shape of the top inner cylinder!
 

Mr Mold Maker

Master Member
My main body is still more precise than the Kango parts because my replica has the proper shape of the top inner cylinder!

I’ve been wondering about this. To date, I haven’t personally seen a Kango housing that perfectly matches the prop. Perhaps there are some out there and I just haven’t seen them. The one that I have and the ones I see commonly seem to be much thinner and rounded out on the top cylinder.
 

3251bimmer

Jr Member
I’ve been wondering about this. To date, I haven’t personally seen a Kango housing that perfectly matches the prop. Perhaps there are some out there and I just haven’t seen them. The one that I have and the ones I see commonly seem to be much thinner and rounded out on the top cylinder.
They were machined to properly fit the internals and then into the kango itself.

The ones used for the film appear to be fresh motor housings (or rejected molds) that were never machined to be installed
 

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