Roman Obi-Wan ANH saber build

On screen to this day I will argue the grenade is not rusty…

I don’t know where the whole “rusty grenade trend” started

But on screen I can say with confidence I don’t see a bit of rust
Decided to give strip the parts and give them another peroxide and vinegar treatment. I’m currently stripping the resulting rust off the booster, but am leaving the rusty grenade out to oxidize for awhile.

I also gave the grenade a light once-over with a sanding drum in my Dremel, to rough up the pinapple’s edges a bit more. Then some more hammering.

Setting aside a lot of the real-parts builds (which unavoidably have badly-deteriorated grenades),a lot of the replicas out there tend to get over-weathered. Too much damage, too much rust. The real prop(s) don’t look nearly that bad.

I think the next step will be a good once-over with sandpaper to smooth things out, then degreasing and bluing.
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Took the parts out of the bath. Cleaned most of the rust off of the booster, bit I’m gonna let the grenade sit for awhile.

Took the parts out of the bath, cleaned them, blued them, and Barricaded them.

We’re headed in the right direction. If you look at the Chronicles photos, the grenade really isn’t that chewed up. Subtlety is the key. Surface texture and soft edges, rather than huge chips and dents.

More work on the steel parts. This time, I decided to re-blue the parts, and then let them oxidize for a while, resulting in some rust.

That being said, I tend to agree with such luminaries as Scottjua and Halliwax in that I don’t think the hero grenade(s) were particularly rusty. Getting the “color temperature” of the grenade is key to a good Obi-Wan saber, I think. Some go WAAAAYYYYYY too rusty, and others too blue or too black.

The photo below shows its current state. The rust is a probably bit too intense. Subtlety is the goal. I think I’ll let it sit overnight, then knock back some of the rust before applying Barricade. A quick double-check of the 4K version of the film indicates SOME rust/brownish tones on the grenade, so my goal is a dark steely-blue color with some very light, rusty highlights.


I also added the teeth marks to the appropriate fins on the booster, as well as giving it the same blue-then-oxidize treatment.


Once I get the grenade and booster looking right, I’ll move on to the windvane and balance pipe.
While the booster and grenade continue to oxidize, I’ve turned my attention to the balance pipe. I’ve developed a simple process for properly weathering it:

First, apply a blotchy coat of Super Blue applied with a Q-Tip. After that, attach the balance pipe to my ghetto lathe (aka electric drill), and spin it at various speeds against various grades of sandpaper (and a wee bit with files), concentrating on the center, to create a band of wear. The goal is a patchy pattern of aymmetrical wear, not precisely bands.

Then, use a Dremel with fine-tip engraving bits to mark dozens of tiny pit marks around the main body of the balance pipe. Re-apply Super Blue in a random, patchy manner (while making sure to saturate all those tiny pit marks), and proceed to run the pipe against sandpaper in the drill once again.

Repeat multiple times until you get a patchy, worn look.

Here’s where we’re at, currently. Mind you, the above technique is just to create a base layer of wear and weathering. The next step will be grime, stains, and simulated fuel deposits.

It should also be noted that inconel—which is what the real balance pipes were made of (unlike Roman’s steel replica)—does not rust. Therefore, any sort of rust treatments to this part would not be accurate. It’s much more about wear and grime.
On to the next step.

I grabbed some Tamiya paints (black, gray, brown, and deck tan), and randomly applied them onto the central portion of the balance pipe with a microbrush, smearing and streaking them together in spots.


Then, I once again stuck the balance pipe onto my drill, and gave it a light sandpaper treatment, followed by some random dabs of Super Blue. Needs another few treatments, but it’s coming along nicely.

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By the way, I’ve been applying a thin strip of tape around the balance pipe before adding most of the paint, to create the clean-ish band of wear seen on the original.

Great job. Very interesting. Many replicas made from replica parts don't seem grimey and beaten enough to me (especialy the balance pipe).
What I like the most with that prop is they just cobbled pieces of junk together without cleaning or cosmetic, just as they found them.
I gave the pre-weathered windvane assembly some light scuffs and scratches, and currently have it suspended over ammonia fumes to lightly re-darken it.

I’ve also begun the process of running the tap knob under some water, then letting it sit, so as to generate a wee bit of limescale in the nooks and crannies. I’ll also add some scuffs and scratches, as well as the promient scratch in-between the cubes.

Also, I’m thinking about how to handle the marks on the bottom of the balance pipe. Some people say scratches. Some people say crimping. Some people say glue. Some people say brazing.

I should, however, point out that the top stem of the windvane appears to be much more of a shiny brass color than the rest, which is badly tanished. That kinda makes me think that the part of the windvane which connects with the balance pipe was cleaned/polished in preparation for brazing, or maybe just for gluing.

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