Rogue One - Jyn Erso BlasTech A180 Blaster Pistol

TheMechanic

Sr Member
I can't seem to find an accurate Jyn blaster anywhere. The Evike is gorgeous but wrong and all the ones I see on Etsy look like crappy toys.
 

Art Andrews

Community Owner
Community Staff
Not saying my model is perfect but but I was on a good run but ran into some fit issues and I just haven’t had a chance to revisit.

I can't seem to find an accurate Jyn blaster anywhere. The Evike is gorgeous but wrong and all the ones I see on Etsy look like crappy toys.
 

Art Andrews

Community Owner
Community Staff
Got my latest print in (my third)... and it still isn't right. I made a number of updates that are working beautifully and the gun LOOKS excellent... but there is an issue with firing... and I THINK I not have it figured out (but then I thought I did the last couple of times as well). I think I have the barrel about 2mm too short and when the gun cycles, the end of the real gun barrel is hitting the front of the Jyn Erso barrel. There was also a SLIGHT alignment issue with the rifle connector which helps hold the barrel in place. I am REALLY hoping this is the last time as I am BEYOND done messing with this piece....

jyn-erso-barrel-take-54.JPG
 

NubcakeMoo

New Member
Looking great Art, if you need anyone to test print or have a close look at your files I'm happy to volunteer, in all seriousness it can help to have another angle on it sometimes!
 

Detreut

Member
IMG_20180414_164924.jpg

I made this using the Umarex with non-moving mechanism.. it's not the navy-version, but I got it for about 100 bucks, which is great factoring in that I live in Sweden!

It still needs some paint, but I managed to work out how you 3d-print sawblocks and guides which enables one to make this with only a dremel and a small drillpress.

The whole shroud and barrel-tip is cast in pewter, but could easily be coldcast using the same approach (its all metal).

I can upload the files and a short build guide if anyone is interested and is working on a budget with few tools at their disposal?
 

Detreut

Member
IMG_20180415_133342.jpgIMG_20180415_132440.jpg

Umarex P08 "fixed" top mechanism mod:

CAD-files (if you cannot download them, just send me a message and I will work out a solution):

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EglsMJEzo-4f-eP9CFx2K8ezX-Q9Fz0Y

Materials:

28mm outer diameter, min 25mm inner diameter, 160mm long aluminum pipe
Silicone
Pewter
3d printed parts
Hacksaw
Dremel
3mm hex screws
1mm slotscrews

1) Print the parts and finish them. Im using a dremel with a sanding attachment. PLA tends to melt if you sand it to hard, therefore it is better to use a vibrating sander. I then sprayed them with filler spray and took them to a 400 grit finish.

IMG_20180415_133237.jpg

2) Insert the tube the whole way into the saw- and drill guide. Carefully saw down about 1mm and then rotate a couple of degrees to get the ribbing. Repeat this step about 24 times.... then flip it over at make the cut in the bottom. After that remove the tube from the block and insert it "backwards", then use a drillpress and drill out the countersunk holes (make sure everything is correctly aligned every step of the way!). I couldn't make a saw guide for the horizontal cuts, while it cant be 3dprinted in a structually good way.

IMG_20180415_132947.jpgIMG_20180415_133008.jpg

3) Modify the support structure parts (they are a couple and slide the over the barrel of the p08 after removing the sights. Slide the barrel over the supports and make necessary adjustments.

4) Make silicone molds of the parts, Tested and Punished Props have great tutorials for this.

IMG_20180415_133134(1).jpgIMG_20180415_133115.jpgIMG_20180415_133055.jpgIMG_20180415_133050.jpg
 
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Detreut

Member
5) Cast the parts and clean them up. Drill out the holes and insert the screws (I used the cut off pieces from the hex-screws as the top screws. Use a dremel and cut a small slide on the side where the screwhead used to be and then screw them in from the inside!). Be carefull when drilling out the holes in the piece below the barrel and insert screws that lock into the barrel, fixing it in place.

IMG_20180413_191432(1).jpgIMG_20180413_133823.jpgIMG_20180413_133559.jpgIMG_20180413_114813.jpg

6) Cut a ring that is 18mm long from a 33mm outer diameter pipe that fits over the barrel and then cut a slot as wide as required in the bottom. At this point you should hade something like this on your workbench:

IMG_20180414_162321.jpg

7) Finish with paint and weather the blaster (the pictures of the finished blaster show some of the black in a slight browninsh tint.. Im blaming the wet oilpaint for that ;) ). All the pieces fit really well, which means small dabs of superglue will reinforce the friction-fitting of the parts surprisingly well!

And there you have it: It is cheaper than buying a milled piece and doesn't require a mill and lathe, and it has a nice weight thanks to the pewter :D

(I know that there isn't supposed to be a button on the right side, I realised that it was a black hex screw and a washer a couple of weeks ago. But I like my design better ;) It was made using a button from a discarded tv-remote and a small aluminum ring, which I countersunc.

I also descided to keep the safety, it's almost impossible to disassemble this model, and while it isn't a navy version I made it to be another version of the A180, just like there is a difference between the standard Luger p08 and the navy-version)

Hopefully this will help some of you guys out! :D
 
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Dann

Master Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Nice work! I like the 3d printed jigs.

What's the deal with the trigger on your P08? I guess Umarex couldn't replicate the Luger trigger exactly?

Sent from my VS996 using Tapatalk
 

Detreut

Member
Yeah I know! I actually prefer the feel of this trigger, but it does look kind of odd haha... looked it up: The Umarex P08 with blowback has the correct trigger, wierd that they have different ones... must have something to do with the blowback mechanism..
 
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