GrumpyStud
New Member
Thanks for replying to me... I tried the setting you posted, it didn't work came out BOLD BLACK. What's happening to the prints is that its not printing clearly :confused It's like a pixelated image. Like blowing up a picture
robo3687's Iron Man Pep Files - SD War Machine links page 73
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IMIM2
Sr Member
I didn't notice that you use pep designer.
Try print preview, how does it look? It should come up with 14 pages.
You can try one of these (not in particular order):
1. Restart your windows
2. Uninstall the program and install it again.
3. Install pep viewer
4. Open other pdo file(s) does it print correctly?
5. Check printer set up
6. Check the scale a helmet height should be around 270-320mm
Try print preview, how does it look? It should come up with 14 pages.
You can try one of these (not in particular order):
1. Restart your windows
2. Uninstall the program and install it again.
3. Install pep viewer
4. Open other pdo file(s) does it print correctly?
5. Check printer set up
6. Check the scale a helmet height should be around 270-320mm
GrumpyStud
New Member
Tried all of the above nothing worked right. Scale is left at default. Looking at the preview print screen most of the templates don't fit on the paper (I'm using Card Stock 8 1/2 x 11) and I'm print in Landscape mode like it says to print. I don't want to give up on this yet. I also downloaded the pep files again, and printed it pep viewer.
Go back to Settings>Print and Paper Settings then set the 'Line Weight' to 3, select 'print lines smoothly (bitmap print)', set the 'Transparency' to around 10 - 20%, and at the bottom set the 'Bitmap Resolution' to High or Very High. That should solve the issue.
paxtoprime94
Active Member
Hey! I'm new here and new at pepping and I have a few questions, mostly about hardening/strengthening the armor and hopefully they're not too noob-y haha and sorry this might be kinda lengthy too. First I would like to say thank you so much to Robo, Sharkhead, and any others who have collaborated on this! Okay though, I've already pepped the helmet, chest, back, abs/lower back, biceps, forearms, handplates, and codpiece, and with only a few parts remaining to be pepped, I've started thinking about the near future, so here goes:
1. What is the purpose of the brace (like the chest brace thing?) is it something I really should build?
2. I used 110 lbs cardstock paper and superglue; if I would like to strengthen/harden it and skip the bondo process, (yes, I know it won't be smooth but I just wanna skip this step) what would be the best thing to use to strengthen/harden it? I've heard the names Smoothcast 300 Series and EpoxAmite, and of course the fiberglass, and I'd be fine with using fiberglass mats/tissue but I was sorta looking for maybe an alternative resin substance thing? I'll use fiberglass if I have to though, I just want the suit to be hard, strong, and sturdy, and not real flexible when I'm done with it
3. Even though I used 110 cardstock, some of my peices (mostly like the chest and back peices) are kinda floppy at times; they keep their shape and were pepped very well (sorry I'm bragging but just wanted to make sure ya'll didn't think I did a crappy job) but don't always stay in the right position (like when I set the chest down on a table or something it gets more spread out) how would I make it stay in one position while strengthening/hardening the peice? I don't wanna have a weird looking chest or back peice...Hopefully I made this question clear enough haha
4. I pepped Sharkhead's helmet (the awesome one with the teeth and stuff) and I'd like for the faceplate to be a seperate peice (that's what it's designed to do after all) but how should I strengthen/harden the helmet? my faceplate is sorta warp-y and doesn't fit onto the rest of the helmet by itself, but when I tape it to the helmet it's perfect-looking; I worry if I harden/strengthen the faceplate by itself and the rest of the helmet by itself, it won't look right or fit together right anymore, so I wondered if I should strengthen/harden the helmet with the faceplate taped on? If I did that, I'd probably have to cut the faceplate out after it's hardened, right? But what tool would I use to cut it?
5. I've seen on this thread something about resining or hardening or whatever one part of the helmet at a time? Does this refer to the actual parts it was made to seperate in (faceplate, jaw, etc.) or just refer to not doing the whole thing at once?
6. And finally, are there any other armor peices that it would be preferable to harden while attached to each other (like should the chest be connected to the back when I harden it, or should the lower circular part of the forearm be connected to the upper bulkier part of the forearm? Are there any other peices that should be attached to each other while hardening?
Thank you so much in advance!
1. What is the purpose of the brace (like the chest brace thing?) is it something I really should build?
2. I used 110 lbs cardstock paper and superglue; if I would like to strengthen/harden it and skip the bondo process, (yes, I know it won't be smooth but I just wanna skip this step) what would be the best thing to use to strengthen/harden it? I've heard the names Smoothcast 300 Series and EpoxAmite, and of course the fiberglass, and I'd be fine with using fiberglass mats/tissue but I was sorta looking for maybe an alternative resin substance thing? I'll use fiberglass if I have to though, I just want the suit to be hard, strong, and sturdy, and not real flexible when I'm done with it
3. Even though I used 110 cardstock, some of my peices (mostly like the chest and back peices) are kinda floppy at times; they keep their shape and were pepped very well (sorry I'm bragging but just wanted to make sure ya'll didn't think I did a crappy job) but don't always stay in the right position (like when I set the chest down on a table or something it gets more spread out) how would I make it stay in one position while strengthening/hardening the peice? I don't wanna have a weird looking chest or back peice...Hopefully I made this question clear enough haha
4. I pepped Sharkhead's helmet (the awesome one with the teeth and stuff) and I'd like for the faceplate to be a seperate peice (that's what it's designed to do after all) but how should I strengthen/harden the helmet? my faceplate is sorta warp-y and doesn't fit onto the rest of the helmet by itself, but when I tape it to the helmet it's perfect-looking; I worry if I harden/strengthen the faceplate by itself and the rest of the helmet by itself, it won't look right or fit together right anymore, so I wondered if I should strengthen/harden the helmet with the faceplate taped on? If I did that, I'd probably have to cut the faceplate out after it's hardened, right? But what tool would I use to cut it?
5. I've seen on this thread something about resining or hardening or whatever one part of the helmet at a time? Does this refer to the actual parts it was made to seperate in (faceplate, jaw, etc.) or just refer to not doing the whole thing at once?
6. And finally, are there any other armor peices that it would be preferable to harden while attached to each other (like should the chest be connected to the back when I harden it, or should the lower circular part of the forearm be connected to the upper bulkier part of the forearm? Are there any other peices that should be attached to each other while hardening?
Thank you so much in advance!
propnoob74
Well-Known Member
Hey there, welcome to the amazing world of prop and costumes making; I have been working on my armor or a couple of months now and here is what so far I have learned.
1. What is the purpose of the brace (like the chest brace thing?) is it something I really should build?
I thin the brace is used to keep the torso (chest/back) in place and be more stable.
2. I used 110 lbs cardstock paper and superglue; if I would like to strengthen/harden it and skip the bondo process, (yes, I know it won't be smooth but I just wanna skip this step) what would be the best thing to use to strengthen/harden it? I've heard the names Smoothcast 300 Series and EpoxAmite, and of course the fiberglass, and I'd be fine with using fiberglass mats/tissue but I was sorta looking for maybe an alternative resin substance thing? I'll use fiberglass if I have to though, I just want the suit to be hard, strong, and sturdy, and not real flexible when I'm done with it
This one; a pro needs to answer, have you think about using rondo (Resin/bondo) you can use is like paint since is very liquid, use a good brush that won't leave a lot of marks and a light sand, presto that may work.
3. Even though I used 110 cardstock, some of my peices (mostly like the chest and back peices) are kinda floppy at times; they keep their shape and were pepped very well (sorry I'm bragging but just wanted to make sure ya'll didn't think I did a crappy job) but don't always stay in the right position (like when I set the chest down on a table or something it gets more spread out) how would I make it stay in one position while strengthening/hardening the peice? I don't wanna have a weird looking chest or back peice...Hopefully I made this question clear enough haha
You can use some craft sticks to give the parts some support; take a look at my build and you will see what I mean
http://www.therpf.com/f24/my-hd-war-machine-suit-pic-heavy-151527/index4.html
4. I pepped Sharkhead's helmet (the awesome one with the teeth and stuff) and I'd like for the faceplate to be a seperate peice (that's what it's designed to do after all) but how should I strengthen/harden the helmet? my faceplate is sorta warp-y and doesn't fit onto the rest of the helmet by itself, but when I tape it to the helmet it's perfect-looking; I worry if I harden/strengthen the faceplate by itself and the rest of the helmet by itself, it won't look right or fit together right anymore, so I wondered if I should strengthen/harden the helmet with the faceplate taped on? If I did that, I'd probably have to cut the faceplate out after it's hardened, right? But what tool would I use to cut it?
A dremel with a hand piece extension that way you can handle it better; here is a link to that
Flex-Shaft Attachment-225-01 at The Home Depot
Last two questions I will leave it to the pro's here...Good luck and post tons of pictures when you start.
5. I've seen on this thread something about resining or hardening or whatever one part of the helmet at a time? Does this refer to the actual parts it was made to seperate in (faceplate, jaw, etc.) or just refer to not doing the whole thing at once?
6. And finally, are there any other armor peices that it would be preferable to harden while attached to each other (like should the chest be connected to the back when I harden it, or should the lower circular part of the forearm be connected to the upper bulkier part of the forearm? Are there any other peices that should be attached to each other while hardening?
Thank you so much in advance![/QUOTE]
1. What is the purpose of the brace (like the chest brace thing?) is it something I really should build?
I thin the brace is used to keep the torso (chest/back) in place and be more stable.
2. I used 110 lbs cardstock paper and superglue; if I would like to strengthen/harden it and skip the bondo process, (yes, I know it won't be smooth but I just wanna skip this step) what would be the best thing to use to strengthen/harden it? I've heard the names Smoothcast 300 Series and EpoxAmite, and of course the fiberglass, and I'd be fine with using fiberglass mats/tissue but I was sorta looking for maybe an alternative resin substance thing? I'll use fiberglass if I have to though, I just want the suit to be hard, strong, and sturdy, and not real flexible when I'm done with it
This one; a pro needs to answer, have you think about using rondo (Resin/bondo) you can use is like paint since is very liquid, use a good brush that won't leave a lot of marks and a light sand, presto that may work.
3. Even though I used 110 cardstock, some of my peices (mostly like the chest and back peices) are kinda floppy at times; they keep their shape and were pepped very well (sorry I'm bragging but just wanted to make sure ya'll didn't think I did a crappy job) but don't always stay in the right position (like when I set the chest down on a table or something it gets more spread out) how would I make it stay in one position while strengthening/hardening the peice? I don't wanna have a weird looking chest or back peice...Hopefully I made this question clear enough haha
You can use some craft sticks to give the parts some support; take a look at my build and you will see what I mean
http://www.therpf.com/f24/my-hd-war-machine-suit-pic-heavy-151527/index4.html
4. I pepped Sharkhead's helmet (the awesome one with the teeth and stuff) and I'd like for the faceplate to be a seperate peice (that's what it's designed to do after all) but how should I strengthen/harden the helmet? my faceplate is sorta warp-y and doesn't fit onto the rest of the helmet by itself, but when I tape it to the helmet it's perfect-looking; I worry if I harden/strengthen the faceplate by itself and the rest of the helmet by itself, it won't look right or fit together right anymore, so I wondered if I should strengthen/harden the helmet with the faceplate taped on? If I did that, I'd probably have to cut the faceplate out after it's hardened, right? But what tool would I use to cut it?
A dremel with a hand piece extension that way you can handle it better; here is a link to that
Flex-Shaft Attachment-225-01 at The Home Depot
Last two questions I will leave it to the pro's here...Good luck and post tons of pictures when you start.
5. I've seen on this thread something about resining or hardening or whatever one part of the helmet at a time? Does this refer to the actual parts it was made to seperate in (faceplate, jaw, etc.) or just refer to not doing the whole thing at once?
6. And finally, are there any other armor peices that it would be preferable to harden while attached to each other (like should the chest be connected to the back when I harden it, or should the lower circular part of the forearm be connected to the upper bulkier part of the forearm? Are there any other peices that should be attached to each other while hardening?
Thank you so much in advance![/QUOTE]
aronxiceman
New Member
so i need some advice?.. I recently downloaded the iron man files and when i attempted to print i only got the edge id numbers but no lines i checked settings > other settings > line style to ensure i had the proper lines selected but again i only printed the edge ids and this is for all the iron man file from robo any ideas or advice
Governor
Member
First make sure your cut lines are solid under settings> other settings> line style. Under settings> print and paper settings> I have Lineweight at 3, selected vector print and the bitmap resolution is high and the transparency is set around 50%
Hope that helps
aronxiceman
New Member
I needed to select vector print thanks for the help.
This is how I have mine setup:
http://www.therpf.com/f24/robo3687s-iron-man-pep-files-sd-war-88147/index85.html#post2379524
theavengers2012
Member
well i know this isn't iron man but i need to know how to create a domino mask
paxtoprime94
Active Member
So I completely finished pepping the entire suit with the exception of the neck seal; here's my pic:
[/URL][/IMG]
^I actually didn't include any of the back in this picture but I've done it too
I have found that I really enjoy doing this, but I find it a huge pain in the ass at the same time haha. Well the most time consuming part is behind me now though; I'm planning on using SmoothCast 321 and some fiberglass cloth, and I'm gonna skip the bondo step. I might even see if I can sand down the rough edges/angles on the outside when I'm done.
Next would be spraypainting, then finishing touches (sunglass lenses for the eyes, light-up chest and hands), and hooking it all together.
A couple questions:
1. Is it just really bad if I cut the eyepeices out of the faceplate before I harden it?
2. What would be the best hinge system to use with the faceplate/helmet if I didn't want to motorize it?
^I actually didn't include any of the back in this picture but I've done it too
I have found that I really enjoy doing this, but I find it a huge pain in the ass at the same time haha. Well the most time consuming part is behind me now though; I'm planning on using SmoothCast 321 and some fiberglass cloth, and I'm gonna skip the bondo step. I might even see if I can sand down the rough edges/angles on the outside when I'm done.
Next would be spraypainting, then finishing touches (sunglass lenses for the eyes, light-up chest and hands), and hooking it all together.
A couple questions:
1. Is it just really bad if I cut the eyepeices out of the faceplate before I harden it?
2. What would be the best hinge system to use with the faceplate/helmet if I didn't want to motorize it?
Last edited:
Devastator
New Member
Hello to all guys, I follow a long time your forum and I congratulate you on your work, I'm just starting out with the armor of ironman, but I have difficulty in obtaining the pdo file in A4 format.
I wanted to ask if you could post these files. my height is 174 cm. For now I am only able to get the helmet in A4 format.
I apologize for my English is very poor, but I hope it is enough to understand.
Respond quote so that I have no difficulty in finding the answer.
Thanks and greetings from Sardinia.
I wanted to ask if you could post these files. my height is 174 cm. For now I am only able to get the helmet in A4 format.
I apologize for my English is very poor, but I hope it is enough to understand.
Respond quote so that I have no difficulty in finding the answer.
Thanks and greetings from Sardinia.
theIronyMan
New Member
Brethren! I'm getting baffled by assembling different parts together. :/
Any advice?
Any advice?
SpaseCowboye
New Member
Robo, I know you get this more times than you can count, but Thanks.
I'm starting a foam/resin reinforced speed-build Mark V/VII combo that I can hopefully get done by Halloween.
Your files are WAY easier to use than some of the others out there. I tried doing the Mark VII, but each piece was taking way too long, and I just got burned out, and ultimately had to put it on hold.
I'm starting a foam/resin reinforced speed-build Mark V/VII combo that I can hopefully get done by Halloween.
Your files are WAY easier to use than some of the others out there. I tried doing the Mark VII, but each piece was taking way too long, and I just got burned out, and ultimately had to put it on hold.
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