Revell Razor Crest Lighting WIP

Antsnest

Sr Member
Had this kit kicking around for a while and finally decided to get started on a lighting system. The first thing that needed sorting out was the engines - these either need opening out with drills and files, or you can take the 21st century option of 3D printing some replacements with all the holes included ;-)

I did a quick rough-out and printed with FDM just to make sure I'd got the basic sizes right, and then started to finesse the details for a resin print. Much of this was just eyeballed from the kit part. One interesting thing I noticed was the 13 (?) small round nozzles are not evenly spaced - they appear in clumps, two of 3 and one of 7. I didn't bother trying to replicate that - mine are evenly spaced.

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Kit part on left, FDM centre, resin right.

I've not done the irregular "ramparts" around the outer cone yet (for want of better words) - and have a few more minor tweaks for size to come, but generally looking good so far.

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Here's an interesting example of thing to take note of when designing for 3D print - the nozzle was printed flat on the build plate but as it forms it is basically a cylinder perpendicular to the FEP sheet. Although there is not much resin sticking to the FEP on each layer, because it's a hollow cylinder, there is a huge amount of suction force to overcome each time the build plate lifts.
This had the effect of almost ripping the resin layers apart which you can see in the following picture, on the left. The surface finish is very poor and rough. On the next attempt I added a vent hole to prevent the suction and this worked - but only from the point where the hole starts to form. Below that, the surface is still poor.
In the 3rd version on the right, I've opened up the gaps in the outer flange and cut into the bottom of the cylinder so these parts are always open right from the bottom. Here there is no suction effect and the surface finish is fine.

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Nice work!

And yes, suction forces are a bitch. Light off delay can also help with rough surfaces (especially with solid or large surface area prints), but adequate vent holes as you have done is definitely the way to go if you can.
 
Yeah, the diffuser sure seems to work like a charm with one LED.

That will save on battery life if running by battery
 
Am following this lighting kit closely - I got one of your Cylon lighting kits for the 1/32 raider - and it is still going strong. Do you have any left by the way?
 
Am following this lighting kit closely - I got one of your Cylon lighting kits for the 1/32 raider - and it is still going strong. Do you have any left by the way?
That's good to hear - which raider are you after? TOS or New? Not sure what's still kicking around.

Been looking some more at the rest of the kit for lighting possibilities - it looks like it would be hard to do a full-feature solution that doesn't rely on extensive kit modifications and probably require soldering skills, so what I may end up with is something more generic that primarily aimed at the engines and nav lights and just leave a multitude of outputs for cockpit/hold lighting and random blinkies for the console.
 
Sounds good. I have sent you a PM regarding the Cylon effects. The engines are the big thing for the razor crest. 3d printing them in resin will ensure the smoothest surface I think
 
Gah! Life getting in the way again. Anyway made some more progress. Controller board designed & first proto taking shape.
I've decided to go with the 2 main engine lights and 2 red nav beacons - each nav will feed 2 fibres, one for top and bottom of each engine body. There's 4 different blinky blinkies which can be used for fiber to control panel lights and then provision for 12 other always-on lights for cockpit / cargo bay interior (inc one for the forward red nav lights).
I don't think the engine nav lights flashed on the show, but I've put a soft fade on them just for a bit of interest.
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There's some video here - it doesn't do it justice and is not really an accurate representation of what the eye sees due to exposure differences and the video shutter combining with the PWM control. The engine flicker is much less coarse in real life, but you get the idea...

 
That's gonna look awesome! Excuse my ignorance but what control board is that? And how easy is it to program? I'll be working on a Falcon in the hopefully not-so-distant future and would love to do a similar setup.
 

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