Pulse Rifle 3d print Files, SPAS cage/Remington/clam shell shroud, racking etc,,

Hi, I hope everyone is enjoying the files and upgrades (more to come!).. if you need any help you can message me via messenger over on Arsebook ‘M41A 3D printed Pulse Rifle kit’.. and if you’re feeling generous you can send me a Xmas card containing a shiny round coin.. or buy me a pint via PayPal..my PayPal is dvlbtchtattoostudios0@googlemail.com Sean Broadhurst ...Stay Frosty Marines..!
you are a legend
 
You are a rockstar my friend, easily the best version of the best sci-fi gun ever made! I just downloaded the newest file set you uploaded last Tuesday, but I'm not seeing the files for the ammo (grenades or caseless). There are a lot of files so I might have missed it.
 
Thanks for the videos! The shotgun assembly makes more sense. I'm working mostly with the original files, and have noticed some changes. I think they may have solved some of the issues I've seen.

Having built some long blaster rifles - BlasTech A290's and A300's from Return of The Jedi and Rouge One - both resin and FDM, my concern has been keeping them from snapping in half when being handled and carried around while in costume.

I've made some modifications to use a 1/2" aluminum tube as the "core":

IMG_0001.jpg


I created some simple bushings in Tinkercad. One to center the "barrel" in the end of the receiver:

IMG_0003.jpg


and the other on the "pilot buff"

IMG_0004.jpg


This gives the receiver, shrouds, Thompson ex block, and barrel shroud something to hold on to

I had to remix the bolt and "cut" a 15mm hole lengthwise

IMG_0006.jpg


I had to sacrifice most of the internal functionality of the Thompson, but the bolt still slides back and forth manually. I intend to put electronics for sound and ammo counter, so as long as it makes noise and the counter decreases I don't think anyone will really mind. The ex block and "hex tabs" are slightly out of alignment

IMG_0002.jpg


You can see the ex block is at a slight angle - the rear is about 1mm lower than the front. This pushes the SPAS cage down away from the receiver, and the exterior shrouds up. I'll try softening the hex tabs (hot water or a controlled heat gun) and see it it can be put in alignment.
 
Thanks for the videos! The shotgun assembly makes more sense. I'm working mostly with the original files, and have noticed some changes. I think they may have solved some of the issues I've seen.

Having built some long blaster rifles - BlasTech A290's and A300's from Return of The Jedi and Rouge One - both resin and FDM, my concern has been keeping them from snapping in half when being handled and carried around while in costume.

I've made some modifications to use a 1/2" aluminum tube as the "core":

View attachment 1351124

I created some simple bushings in Tinkercad. One to center the "barrel" in the end of the receiver:

View attachment 1351125

and the other on the "pilot buff"

View attachment 1351126

This gives the receiver, shrouds, Thompson ex block, and barrel shroud something to hold on to

I had to remix the bolt and "cut" a 15mm hole lengthwise

View attachment 1351127

I had to sacrifice most of the internal functionality of the Thompson, but the bolt still slides back and forth manually. I intend to put electronics for sound and ammo counter, so as long as it makes noise and the counter decreases I don't think anyone will really mind. The ex block and "hex tabs" are slightly out of alignment

View attachment 1351128

You can see the ex block is at a slight angle - the rear is about 1mm lower than the front. This pushes the SPAS cage down away from the receiver, and the exterior shrouds up. I'll try softening the hex tabs (hot water or a controlled heat gun) and see it it can be put in alignment.
you are a legend
Thankyou fella.
 
Thanks for the videos! The shotgun assembly makes more sense. I'm working mostly with the original files, and have noticed some changes. I think they may have solved some of the issues I've seen.

Having built some long blaster rifles - BlasTech A290's and A300's from Return of The Jedi and Rouge One - both resin and FDM, my concern has been keeping them from snapping in half when being handled and carried around while in costume.

I've made some modifications to use a 1/2" aluminum tube as the "core":

View attachment 1351124

I created some simple bushings in Tinkercad. One to center the "barrel" in the end of the receiver:

View attachment 1351125

and the other on the "pilot buff"

View attachment 1351126

This gives the receiver, shrouds, Thompson ex block, and barrel shroud something to hold on to

I had to remix the bolt and "cut" a 15mm hole lengthwise

View attachment 1351127

I had to sacrifice most of the internal functionality of the Thompson, but the bolt still slides back and forth manually. I intend to put electronics for sound and ammo counter, so as long as it makes noise and the counter decreases I don't think anyone will really mind. The ex block and "hex tabs" are slightly out of alignment

View attachment 1351128

You can see the ex block is at a slight angle - the rear is about 1mm lower than the front. This pushes the SPAS cage down away from the receiver, and the exterior shrouds up. I'll try softening the hex tabs (hot water or a controlled heat gun) and see it it can be put in alignment.
Brilliant idea!, I’m glad the latest videos help fella and keep up the good work.
 
Thanks for the videos! The shotgun assembly makes more sense. I'm working mostly with the original files, and have noticed some changes. I think they may have solved some of the issues I've seen.

Having built some long blaster rifles - BlasTech A290's and A300's from Return of The Jedi and Rouge One - both resin and FDM, my concern has been keeping them from snapping in half when being handled and carried around while in costume.

I've made some modifications to use a 1/2" aluminum tube as the "core":

View attachment 1351124

I created some simple bushings in Tinkercad. One to center the "barrel" in the end of the receiver:

View attachment 1351125

and the other on the "pilot buff"

View attachment 1351126

This gives the receiver, shrouds, Thompson ex block, and barrel shroud something to hold on to

I had to remix the bolt and "cut" a 15mm hole lengthwise

View attachment 1351127

I had to sacrifice most of the internal functionality of the Thompson, but the bolt still slides back and forth manually. I intend to put electronics for sound and ammo counter, so as long as it makes noise and the counter decreases I don't think anyone will really mind. The ex block and "hex tabs" are slightly out of alignment

View attachment 1351128

You can see the ex block is at a slight angle - the rear is about 1mm lower than the front. This pushes the SPAS cage down away from the receiver, and the exterior shrouds up. I'll try softening the hex tabs (hot water or a controlled heat gun) and see it it can be put in alignment.
Just checked the measurements at the front and back out of curiosity and mines bang on mate?, I’m just printing a fresh set of hex plates to double check the measurements but I’ve not come across any problems with them in the past.. I’m intrigued lol.. any chance the parts may be warped at your end?..cheers Sean
FDB9FDC2-0821-4BCE-85EB-BBD69EE7FE62.jpeg
E140DF1B-6DEE-4B22-937E-6B6F04AE7319.jpeg
 
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You are a rockstar my friend, easily the best version of the best sci-fi gun ever made! I just downloaded the newest file set you uploaded last Tuesday, but I'm not seeing the files for the ammo (grenades or caseless). There are a lot of files so I might have missed it.
I think they’re on a separate comment mate if not give me shout and I’ll post a fresh link..
 
Just a little reminder..you can buy me a beer Via PayPal and receive early access to the 3 part mag with M41A stamping, the prototype spas12 pump grip( closer to the real deal), the Thompson frame with markings ( safety and full auto) and a few other personal unreleased bits and bobs.. traceyhtchnsn@gmail.com Thanks in advance
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Just checked the measurements at the front and back out of curiosity and mines bang on mate?, I’m just printing a fresh set of hex plates to double check the measurements but I’ve not come across any problems with them in the past.. I’m intrigued lol.. any chance the parts may be warped at your end?..cheers Sean

Printed a spool rewinder yesterday, and found parts that should fit together, don't :D I suspect that everything is printing slightly oversize. On a 10mm part, it's almost not measurable. Print a 200mm part (SPAS Cage, Shroud, receivers, etc.) and you notice. I'm printing some calibration cubes right now.
 
Sexy!
One fine sunny day, when I do have the funds, I will flick you some beer monies. Most deserved, I think.



re markings on the mags, have you considered something closer to the markings on [real steel] Thompson mags?

For eg, here's a pic of my airsoft mags I had laser engraved -

My mags 02.jpg
 
Printed a spool rewinder yesterday, and found parts that should fit together, don't :D I suspect that everything is printing slightly oversize. On a 10mm part, it's almost not measurable. Print a 200mm part (SPAS Cage, Shroud, receivers, etc.) and you notice. I'm printing some calibration cubes right now.
Phew you had me worried there mate lol, I’ve checked and double checked the measurements on the block and hex plates and I couldn’t find anything wrong..
 

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