Project: Revell AT-AT Walker
- Thread starter anamorphicWayne
- Start date
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Thanks, Chaim. A complete overhaul is right. I never figured how much work is involved on this project. Geeez. :wacko
Last edited:
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
That's the plan anyways. If everything works out, I would like to do a simple walk cycle. But there is still more to do. I'm milling out the legs at the moment, which is very time consuming. Then, it's a matter of making all the parts work with each other. :unsure
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Thanks joberg. I know it's not going to be easy. Far from it. But as far as I know, no one has yet constructed a fully articulated AT-AT and got it to animate.
MonsieurTox
Master Member
I was almost there !
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=33141
But I stopped and went for the bigger boy !
Good job so far it will be great to watch some stop-mo animation !
Keep up the good work.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
I was almost there !
http://www.therpf.com/showthread.php?t=33141
But I stopped and went for the bigger boy !
Good job so far it will be great to watch some stop-mo animation !
Keep up the good work.
Thanks Julien.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Hello Gang. Another update as promised.
THE LEG BASE BLOCK and PANEL
I made up a template to go by and transferred it to a piece of styrene.
I then started to add the greeblies and bits.
Opps!! I Goofed when I should of Gaffed. Notice the two parts on opposites sides of the center Round Thing????
....they should be switched. That's better.
I also did the Leg Base Block, that attaches to the Main Chassis. Those four cylinders sticking out are for the Hips/Legs.
I drilled out the holes for the Joint Bases.
I did a test fitting. Everything looks okay.
All primed.
More to come......
THE LEG BASE BLOCK and PANEL
I made up a template to go by and transferred it to a piece of styrene.
I then started to add the greeblies and bits.
Opps!! I Goofed when I should of Gaffed. Notice the two parts on opposites sides of the center Round Thing????
....they should be switched. That's better.
I also did the Leg Base Block, that attaches to the Main Chassis. Those four cylinders sticking out are for the Hips/Legs.
I drilled out the holes for the Joint Bases.
I did a test fitting. Everything looks okay.
All primed.
More to come......
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anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LOWER FOOT SHELL
I worked on the Lower Foot Shell, which in the end, have to make a mold of using silicon rubber. From that, I'll cast the four parts using regular polyester resin. I think they'll be thin enough to avoid any shrinkage.
I used a 2" tube for the inner core.
I then used the shell from the Revell kit and applied plumber's paste as a filler.
I popped out the 2" tube and cleaned it up. Because the shell wasn't wide enough, I added layers of styrene to build it up.
I then drew in the panel lines and scribed them. I still need to cut out the toes slots and add on the greeblies.
After more carving and cutting, I got to this.
Next, I added the greeblies. I'll have to wait until I have the Foot Support Rods figured out to continue.
Until then.
I worked on the Lower Foot Shell, which in the end, have to make a mold of using silicon rubber. From that, I'll cast the four parts using regular polyester resin. I think they'll be thin enough to avoid any shrinkage.
I used a 2" tube for the inner core.
I then used the shell from the Revell kit and applied plumber's paste as a filler.
I popped out the 2" tube and cleaned it up. Because the shell wasn't wide enough, I added layers of styrene to build it up.
I then drew in the panel lines and scribed them. I still need to cut out the toes slots and add on the greeblies.
After more carving and cutting, I got to this.
Next, I added the greeblies. I'll have to wait until I have the Foot Support Rods figured out to continue.
Until then.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE FOOT SUPPORT RODS
Speaking of the support rods, it'll require some basic rods and tubes. The biggest trick is to find 'ball heads' or something similar to connect to the Ankles and the Lower Foot Shells.
For the top connector, I'll have to bore out a round chamber in small aluminum rods to accommodate the ball that attaches to the Ankles.
The base of this mechanisms will eventually be attached to the Lower Foot Shells.
For the ball 'n' socket bases, I found these 'ball head' screws used on cupboard doors. Unfortunately, I only have three and I need four. Grrrr.
I might have to come up something else or do more searching in my local area. This will be a work in progress.
In the meantime.............
NEXT, will be the fun stuff. THE LEGS!!! :rolleyes GULP!!!
Speaking of the support rods, it'll require some basic rods and tubes. The biggest trick is to find 'ball heads' or something similar to connect to the Ankles and the Lower Foot Shells.
For the top connector, I'll have to bore out a round chamber in small aluminum rods to accommodate the ball that attaches to the Ankles.
The base of this mechanisms will eventually be attached to the Lower Foot Shells.
For the ball 'n' socket bases, I found these 'ball head' screws used on cupboard doors. Unfortunately, I only have three and I need four. Grrrr.
I might have to come up something else or do more searching in my local area. This will be a work in progress.
In the meantime.............
NEXT, will be the fun stuff. THE LEGS!!! :rolleyes GULP!!!
TazMan2000
Master Member
Hey Wayne,
Check out your local RC Hobby store. I think they use similar screws for either RC aircraft or vehicle linkages. I think they're known as ball studs.
TazMan2000
Check out your local RC Hobby store. I think they use similar screws for either RC aircraft or vehicle linkages. I think they're known as ball studs.
TazMan2000
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
Thanks VFX Freak. It should be interesting if it works out. BTW, I use 'animatable' so I would say it's safe to use.
Cheers,
- - - Updated - - -
RC Stores, of course. I believe we have one in our town. Thanks Taz.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part I
Well, it's been a while. I apologize for not updating sooner, but I've been feverishly working on the legs for the last three months.
So. Let's get started shall we?
Prepping.
Before I started on the legs, I needed to figure out how I'm going to pull off these complex shapes with my limited skills and budget.
I got the following tools:
- Drill Press
- Compound Table
- Drill Press Vise
- Rotary Table
- End Mills
- Dremel Bits
- Drill Bits
- Taps
- Metal Files
- Hack Saw
- Cutting Oil
- Marker Pens
- Ruler
- Sand Paper
- Wood/Metal Blocks
- Clamps
- X-Acto Knife
- Tooth Picks
For milling the straight edges and channels, I thought the Proxxon 27100 Micro Compound Table was good choice for the job. It was quite inexpensive and small enough to mount to the drill press table.
Next, the drill press. I found this unit at a local flea market. It wasn't expensive, so if I destroy it, it won't break the bank.
I also needed a vise for the drill press. I bought this one from a hardware store for $30. It's not the best, but it's working out just fine.
For a rotary table, I thought I'd make it myself. I took a square block of 3/8 aluminum and drew up what I needed on the top side.
I then cut off the corners, shaped it and made a base for it, so it can be mounted to the compound table.
This is how the rotary table will used with the parts. As I rotate the table, w/the part, the end mill will shave off metal.
Here it is on the drill press/compound table ready for work.
NEXT, will be the materials needed to for the legs.
Well, it's been a while. I apologize for not updating sooner, but I've been feverishly working on the legs for the last three months.
So. Let's get started shall we?
Prepping.
Before I started on the legs, I needed to figure out how I'm going to pull off these complex shapes with my limited skills and budget.
I got the following tools:
- Drill Press
- Compound Table
- Drill Press Vise
- Rotary Table
- End Mills
- Dremel Bits
- Drill Bits
- Taps
- Metal Files
- Hack Saw
- Cutting Oil
- Marker Pens
- Ruler
- Sand Paper
- Wood/Metal Blocks
- Clamps
- X-Acto Knife
- Tooth Picks
For milling the straight edges and channels, I thought the Proxxon 27100 Micro Compound Table was good choice for the job. It was quite inexpensive and small enough to mount to the drill press table.
Next, the drill press. I found this unit at a local flea market. It wasn't expensive, so if I destroy it, it won't break the bank.
I also needed a vise for the drill press. I bought this one from a hardware store for $30. It's not the best, but it's working out just fine.
For a rotary table, I thought I'd make it myself. I took a square block of 3/8 aluminum and drew up what I needed on the top side.
I then cut off the corners, shaped it and made a base for it, so it can be mounted to the compound table.
This is how the rotary table will used with the parts. As I rotate the table, w/the part, the end mill will shave off metal.
Here it is on the drill press/compound table ready for work.
NEXT, will be the materials needed to for the legs.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part II
From my research and plans, I'd determined I needed the following gauges of aluminum to make the main leg parts.
Blocks and Sheets:
1/8 - Leg Tension
3/16 - Hip Plates, Lower Foot Caps and Lower Foot Bases and Toes
1/4 - Upper and Lower Legs
3/8 - Horse Shoes, Ankles
1mm - Fly Wheels, Upper Foot Bases
2mm - Caps, Brackets and Panels
I got the main blocks cut for me by my local supplier. These blocks consist of 3/16, 1/4 and 3/8 gauges.
Next were the Caps, Brackets, Panels, Leg Tensions and Horse Shoes. Along with the Fly Wheels and Toes.
Then, the task of cutting them down to a manageable level was required, so it'll be easier for milling.
I started with the less difficult parts by simply using a coarse file.
An assortment of aluminum rods were needed for the Joints, Pins, Caps and Foot parts.
On the left, are parts for the Body_Hip Joints and the right, the Lower Foot Chamber.
NEXT, let's start making legs.
From my research and plans, I'd determined I needed the following gauges of aluminum to make the main leg parts.
Blocks and Sheets:
1/8 - Leg Tension
3/16 - Hip Plates, Lower Foot Caps and Lower Foot Bases and Toes
1/4 - Upper and Lower Legs
3/8 - Horse Shoes, Ankles
1mm - Fly Wheels, Upper Foot Bases
2mm - Caps, Brackets and Panels
I got the main blocks cut for me by my local supplier. These blocks consist of 3/16, 1/4 and 3/8 gauges.
Next were the Caps, Brackets, Panels, Leg Tensions and Horse Shoes. Along with the Fly Wheels and Toes.
Then, the task of cutting them down to a manageable level was required, so it'll be easier for milling.
I started with the less difficult parts by simply using a coarse file.
An assortment of aluminum rods were needed for the Joints, Pins, Caps and Foot parts.
On the left, are parts for the Body_Hip Joints and the right, the Lower Foot Chamber.
NEXT, let's start making legs.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part III
The Hip Plates.
I used a coarse file to round off the corners to make it easier for milling.
Then, I mounted the Hip Plates to the rotary table. Using the center pin as a pivot, I was able to mill the curved ends. For the straight edges, I removed the rotary table and used the compound table and milled them in the same manner.
Next, I milled the slanted slots and cut out the notches for the Joint Tension bolts.
I drilled the joint holes for the Body_Hip Joints and Upper Legs. I used a 1/2 bit for both.
For the Body_Hip Joint, I milled them to a 5/8 diameter. These particular joint holes is larger than the Upper Legs.
To finish them off, I cut slits for the Joint Tensions and drilled the correct holes for the Guide Pins.
NEXT, the Upper Legs. Please stay tuned.....
The Hip Plates.
I used a coarse file to round off the corners to make it easier for milling.
Then, I mounted the Hip Plates to the rotary table. Using the center pin as a pivot, I was able to mill the curved ends. For the straight edges, I removed the rotary table and used the compound table and milled them in the same manner.
Next, I milled the slanted slots and cut out the notches for the Joint Tension bolts.
I drilled the joint holes for the Body_Hip Joints and Upper Legs. I used a 1/2 bit for both.
For the Body_Hip Joint, I milled them to a 5/8 diameter. These particular joint holes is larger than the Upper Legs.
To finish them off, I cut slits for the Joint Tensions and drilled the correct holes for the Guide Pins.
NEXT, the Upper Legs. Please stay tuned.....
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part IV
The Upper Legs.
I milled the Upper Legs in the same manner as the Hip Plates.
To get any tough spots, I just used hand files.
To mill the Knee Joints, I thought of cutting grooves along each joint as it might make easy for me to mill them in sections.
I believe it worked quite well. For the areas in upper knee, I used the rotary table to mill those portions out.
Next, I milled the 'round cavity' in the center of the legs. Again I using the rotary table.
The cores were milled off later.
The large curved channels were next. I used a 3/8 end mill to mill that portion out.
You can see it here. I drilled guide holes and did the Guide Pin slots in the same fashion.
The Piston channels were simply milled in a straight line using a 3/16 end mill.
I did some cleaning afterwards by using a dremel tool and hand files.
I drilled two small holes at the bottom of the Piston channels, so I can mount the Piston Rails.
During my work, I discovered some issues concerning the Knee Joints which required me to alter my design. I had to enlarge the Knee Joint holes from 1/2 to 5/8 and install 5/8 copper rings. The Knee Joint holes on the Lower Legs had to be enlarged as well.
NEXT, will be the Lower Legs. These were done similar to the Upper Legs.
The Upper Legs.
I milled the Upper Legs in the same manner as the Hip Plates.
To get any tough spots, I just used hand files.
To mill the Knee Joints, I thought of cutting grooves along each joint as it might make easy for me to mill them in sections.
I believe it worked quite well. For the areas in upper knee, I used the rotary table to mill those portions out.
Next, I milled the 'round cavity' in the center of the legs. Again I using the rotary table.
The cores were milled off later.
The large curved channels were next. I used a 3/8 end mill to mill that portion out.
You can see it here. I drilled guide holes and did the Guide Pin slots in the same fashion.
The Piston channels were simply milled in a straight line using a 3/16 end mill.
I did some cleaning afterwards by using a dremel tool and hand files.
I drilled two small holes at the bottom of the Piston channels, so I can mount the Piston Rails.
During my work, I discovered some issues concerning the Knee Joints which required me to alter my design. I had to enlarge the Knee Joint holes from 1/2 to 5/8 and install 5/8 copper rings. The Knee Joint holes on the Lower Legs had to be enlarged as well.
NEXT, will be the Lower Legs. These were done similar to the Upper Legs.
anamorphicWayne
Sr Member
THE LEGS Part V
The Lower Legs.
The Lower Legs were very straight forward when it came to milling.
The outer channels were milled using a 5/16 rotary bit. It milled quite cleanly.
Next, I did the narrow channels on the inside of the legs. They'll be hidden by the Leg Brackets, but I included them in my design. Supposedly, they were on the studio model.
Like the Knee Joints on the Upper Legs, I did those the same way.
I drilled 1/2 holes for the knee joints, but I'd enlarged them later on.
Lastly, I milled the curved indents in the lower part of the legs. These indents are to accommodate the Horse Shoes inside the Ankles.
TO BE CONTINUED. The Ankles are next.
The Lower Legs.
The Lower Legs were very straight forward when it came to milling.
The outer channels were milled using a 5/16 rotary bit. It milled quite cleanly.
Next, I did the narrow channels on the inside of the legs. They'll be hidden by the Leg Brackets, but I included them in my design. Supposedly, they were on the studio model.
Like the Knee Joints on the Upper Legs, I did those the same way.
I drilled 1/2 holes for the knee joints, but I'd enlarged them later on.
Lastly, I milled the curved indents in the lower part of the legs. These indents are to accommodate the Horse Shoes inside the Ankles.
TO BE CONTINUED. The Ankles are next.
Vacformedhero
Sr Member
Brilliant work , you should cast each of your parts before you assemble so you can at a later date create another one quickly
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