EchoLeader
Sr Member
Steve, AWESOME. work on your X-Wing. I can't wait to see what you do with your latest acquisition. Any ideas what you have planned for that one?
Presenting my latest adition! RED-2
- Thread starter STEVE THE SWEDE
- Start date
STEVE THE SWEDE
Sr Member
Thanks a bunch guys. Your response to the model is quite over whelming. :love
I'll try my best to answere some of your questions:
CessnaDriver,
The model was painted with a technique that Lee (rough studios) tought me. I'm also a firm believer (this has been discussed to death) that it just happens to be the same exact way that ILM did the original X and Y-wings. Basicly you start coating the model in flat black primer. Then you hit it with gloss white car paint. Yeah, that's right, everybody knows the real X-wings were white and not grey, right.
Your model should now look like crap. Don't worry, here's where the magic comes in. Rub down the white paint with fine grade steel wool. This should result in a finish that's kind of a cross between flat/satin and gloss. It looks incredible in real life and it's VERY hard to fake it with clear coats, believe me I've tried. This is what gives the model that special sheen that you see in some of my pics. Also, the rubbing takes a way some of the white paint which exposes the black primer, looks very cool.
The model was weathered, or rather SOAKED in different enamel washes. The soot and blast marks were airbrushed on. Finally I gave the entire model a final rub down with steel wool to blend it all together. I like to call this model building on steriods cause it's really a VERY rough prosses, much more like prop building then modeling. Since there's no pastel or stuff like that on it there's no need to seal it. Well, I hope this helps a bit.
moffeaton,
Thanks for noticing. Yes, the brass tubes was a little detail that I really liked and wanted to incorperate on my model too.
Echoleader,
The sad thing about that one is that it's gonna have to wait on a shelf until I've taken care of my commission works. One thing is sure though, I definately intend to make it my best work yet. Then again, with a canvas like that it's going to be hard to fail.
Thanks again all. Here's some new close up's taken without lights in plain daylight, as you can see different lighting changes the apperance drasticly.
[image]http://www.wackychimp.com/uploads/red-2-8-web.jpg[/image]
[image]http://www.wackychimp.com/uploads/red-2-9-web.jpg[/image]
[image]http://www.wackychimp.com/uploads/red-2-10-web.jpg[/image]
[image]http://www.wackychimp.com/uploads/red-2-11-web.jpg[/image]
Cheers,
Steve.
I'll try my best to answere some of your questions:
CessnaDriver,
The model was painted with a technique that Lee (rough studios) tought me. I'm also a firm believer (this has been discussed to death) that it just happens to be the same exact way that ILM did the original X and Y-wings. Basicly you start coating the model in flat black primer. Then you hit it with gloss white car paint. Yeah, that's right, everybody knows the real X-wings were white and not grey, right.
Your model should now look like crap. Don't worry, here's where the magic comes in. Rub down the white paint with fine grade steel wool. This should result in a finish that's kind of a cross between flat/satin and gloss. It looks incredible in real life and it's VERY hard to fake it with clear coats, believe me I've tried. This is what gives the model that special sheen that you see in some of my pics. Also, the rubbing takes a way some of the white paint which exposes the black primer, looks very cool. The model was weathered, or rather SOAKED in different enamel washes. The soot and blast marks were airbrushed on. Finally I gave the entire model a final rub down with steel wool to blend it all together. I like to call this model building on steriods cause it's really a VERY rough prosses, much more like prop building then modeling. Since there's no pastel or stuff like that on it there's no need to seal it. Well, I hope this helps a bit.
moffeaton,
Thanks for noticing. Yes, the brass tubes was a little detail that I really liked and wanted to incorperate on my model too.
Echoleader,
The sad thing about that one is that it's gonna have to wait on a shelf until I've taken care of my commission works. One thing is sure though, I definately intend to make it my best work yet. Then again, with a canvas like that it's going to be hard to fail.
Thanks again all. Here's some new close up's taken without lights in plain daylight, as you can see different lighting changes the apperance drasticly.
[image]http://www.wackychimp.com/uploads/red-2-8-web.jpg[/image]
[image]http://www.wackychimp.com/uploads/red-2-9-web.jpg[/image]
[image]http://www.wackychimp.com/uploads/red-2-10-web.jpg[/image]
[image]http://www.wackychimp.com/uploads/red-2-11-web.jpg[/image]
Cheers,
Steve.
vaderdarth
Master Member
wow those last few pics blow my mind. That truly is a spectacular paint job.
Dave
Dave
Lynn TXP 0369
Sr Member
Looks awesome bud..
I've been waiting to see this one...
I used Lee's techniques on my Red leader and they rock.
Lynn
I've been waiting to see this one...
I used Lee's techniques on my Red leader and they rock.
Lynn
imaginager
Sr Member
Great work. Love the look of the "2".
Allan
Allan
I also notice the styrene blade in the intakes is properly sized and placed.
The video instructions for the kit shows putting in this big fat bar right up in front.
Not correct. on the Red Five studio, they are thin like these posted pics here show.
I would just bet that the original inspiration was the thin blade seen in an F-16 intake.
The video instructions for the kit shows putting in this big fat bar right up in front.
Not correct. on the Red Five studio, they are thin like these posted pics here show.
I would just bet that the original inspiration was the thin blade seen in an F-16 intake.
Steve,
I'm in love with your X-Wing. :love
Great, great job.
I'm in love with your X-Wing. :love
Great, great job.
Boba Frett
Sr Member
That is SWEET..... :thumbsup
STEVE THE SWEDE
Sr Member
Thanks a bunch guys. Your aproval means a lot to me.
Cheers,
Steve.
Cheers,
Steve.
Lord of the props
Sr Member
Ohhhh WOW Steve, thats just fantastic
STEVE THE SWEDE
Sr Member
Gonk 27,
The rust was just an ordinary enamel wash mixed with different amounts of paint depending on which effect I was after. The chipping effect was achived with liquid latex mask. It's applied with a tooth pic and when dry painted over with red. Then you just rubb of the latex blobs and voila. Instant chipping.
Gigatron,
Thank you so much for that comment. Not everybody notices the hard work behind a good picture. My girlfriend (who did the entire lighting set up) and I worked for hours before we achived the look we was after. IMO well worth the effort.
Thanks again, all.
Steve.
The rust was just an ordinary enamel wash mixed with different amounts of paint depending on which effect I was after. The chipping effect was achived with liquid latex mask. It's applied with a tooth pic and when dry painted over with red. Then you just rubb of the latex blobs and voila. Instant chipping.
Gigatron,
Thank you so much for that comment. Not everybody notices the hard work behind a good picture. My girlfriend (who did the entire lighting set up) and I worked for hours before we achived the look we was after. IMO well worth the effort.
Thanks again, all.
Steve.
swpropmaker
Sr Member
Swede,
Great job, the question I have is how are you gonna "TIE" Red 2 into your ESB collection? Did Wedge escort the "First catch of the day?"
Fantastic myman. Get to work on the Probe Droid.
Steve
Great job, the question I have is how are you gonna "TIE" Red 2 into your ESB collection? Did Wedge escort the "First catch of the day?"
Fantastic myman. Get to work on the Probe Droid.
Steve
nwjedidave
Sr Member
steve --
AWESOME ..
when you get a chance could you tell me what type of camera you're using? i would like to take some good model pictures myself
NWJEDI
dave
AWESOME ..
when you get a chance could you tell me what type of camera you're using? i would like to take some good model pictures myself
NWJEDI
dave
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