PLNK Droid Build
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FordPrefect
Well-Known Member
Fun Fun Fun ! Will be subscribed to not miss any other updates
Thanks Thorssoli! Your work is amazing. I am going to make it mobile and right now the thought is to use wheels and motors. The legs are connected to drawer slides and the motors will be located in the rear feet. That way it will essentially shuffle forward. At least I am hoping that will work.
hansolo2504
Well-Known Member
love it! this sort of build is something I feel with my limited skills and resources I may be able to do! obviously not moving as I only know how to wire a plug and make a circuit but that's it as far as my electrical engineering skills go! great build, love the use of bins 
Last edited:
Amazing DJ
Well-Known Member
Here's an idea to make it move...
To make it move forward, you need a wheel on a motor. Put the wheel on the ground. But make it an OVAL-shaped wheel. The odd shape will lift the legs off the ground a bit as it propels it forward.
To make it move forward, you need a wheel on a motor. Put the wheel on the ground. But make it an OVAL-shaped wheel. The odd shape will lift the legs off the ground a bit as it propels it forward.
love it! this sort of build is something I feel with my limited skills and resources I may be able to do! obviously not moving as I only know how to wire a plug and make a circuit but that's it as far as my electrical engineering skills go! great build, love the use of bins
Making it move around with R/C is relatively straight forward, which I will do here. But you can also use an Arduino to respond to sensors and have some element of movement that way.
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This is a really simple and cool idea. the front casters would have to be oval too.
Today I started on the electronics panel. This panel will be attached to the top bin and as I am planning on making the top bin removable, I need a way to disconnect some of the wires from bottom half to the top half.
I started out by laying out everything that needs to go on that panel. I marked the mounting holes and drilled it for 4-40 screws.
Added screws and nuts to hold everything to the plexiglass. I attached a terminal strip that will become the spot all of the lowers wires will attach too. I added a ground strip, a 12-volt relay, a 24-volt relay, a power distribution board, a 24-volt electronic speed controller and and Arduino Uno.
The two black things in the center of the board are relays (electronic switches). The lower one is 12-volt and the upper one is 24-volt. I am wiring the 12-volt relay to turn on the power distribution board, which will in turn provide power at different voltages to the Arduino, the R/C receiver and my fans. The 24- volt relay is wired directly to ESC because it will be running 24-volt motors. All of the black wires are run to one central ground to avoid ground loops. Not entirely sure what that is but I am sure it is bad.
For those wanting to know how to wire up a relay, I drew up this handy diagram to keep from getting confused. Or you could use some similar, like the Internet.
I got to this point and I will need male servo connectors for the receiver. I have the wire but will need the connectors. The wires running off the board will be attached to four switches, but more on that once I start to install all of this into the top bin. The motors will be connected to the ESC on the right side of the board. The batteries and the fans will be connected on the left side in the terminal strip.
I started out by laying out everything that needs to go on that panel. I marked the mounting holes and drilled it for 4-40 screws.
Added screws and nuts to hold everything to the plexiglass. I attached a terminal strip that will become the spot all of the lowers wires will attach too. I added a ground strip, a 12-volt relay, a 24-volt relay, a power distribution board, a 24-volt electronic speed controller and and Arduino Uno.
The two black things in the center of the board are relays (electronic switches). The lower one is 12-volt and the upper one is 24-volt. I am wiring the 12-volt relay to turn on the power distribution board, which will in turn provide power at different voltages to the Arduino, the R/C receiver and my fans. The 24- volt relay is wired directly to ESC because it will be running 24-volt motors. All of the black wires are run to one central ground to avoid ground loops. Not entirely sure what that is but I am sure it is bad.
For those wanting to know how to wire up a relay, I drew up this handy diagram to keep from getting confused. Or you could use some similar, like the Internet.
I got to this point and I will need male servo connectors for the receiver. I have the wire but will need the connectors. The wires running off the board will be attached to four switches, but more on that once I start to install all of this into the top bin. The motors will be connected to the ESC on the right side of the board. The batteries and the fans will be connected on the left side in the terminal strip.
What a fun project! I love a hardware store robot! Very creative use of materials.
I added a couple more holes today. I needed one more on the face for 24v switch and I added on each side of the droid and one in the front for motion sensors. The motion sensors will trigger a sound.
Next up, was to to paint the base coat onto the top bin.
For the seam between the bins I have decided to use 1/16th thick strip of one and a half inch aluminum. I bought a eight foot piece and clamped it to the lower bin. I drilled holes as I went and used screws to attach it to the lid and lower bin. Basically, I want the top bin to slip inside and be removable.
And here is what it looks like with the top bin off.
Next up, was to to paint the base coat onto the top bin.
For the seam between the bins I have decided to use 1/16th thick strip of one and a half inch aluminum. I bought a eight foot piece and clamped it to the lower bin. I drilled holes as I went and used screws to attach it to the lid and lower bin. Basically, I want the top bin to slip inside and be removable.
And here is what it looks like with the top bin off.
Removed the top bin and started installing the electronics. First to go back in is the electrical panel.
Next, I ran all of the wires to the switches.
I also peeled off the tape to reveal the lenses for my blinking lights.
Hooked up the 12 volt side to make sure everything is wired correctly. Turned out I had to switch the leads on the lighted switches until I got it to work.
Everything now works and I also tested the 110 volt side. This is the first battery I charged as a semi built droid.
Next, I ran all of the wires to the switches.
I also peeled off the tape to reveal the lenses for my blinking lights.
Hooked up the 12 volt side to make sure everything is wired correctly. Turned out I had to switch the leads on the lighted switches until I got it to work.
Everything now works and I also tested the 110 volt side. This is the first battery I charged as a semi built droid.
Got a few things done as I am waiting for parts.
I painted the inside of the 110 volt box silver with some acrylic paint and weathered with an oil color.
I also was able to hot glue the motion sensors into place. There is one on each side of the droid and the front.
And finally I used quick connectors for all of the wire connections between the upper and lower bin. So now it will be fast and easy to remove the upper bin. Because I decided to go this way, now i need a few more parts.
I painted the inside of the 110 volt box silver with some acrylic paint and weathered with an oil color.
I also was able to hot glue the motion sensors into place. There is one on each side of the droid and the front.
And finally I used quick connectors for all of the wire connections between the upper and lower bin. So now it will be fast and easy to remove the upper bin. Because I decided to go this way, now i need a few more parts.
I got the parts for the rear wheels and motors.
I bought a swivel mount to attach the motors to the channel, however I didn't get the piece that actually attaches to the channel. After a little research I found that the website clearly states "Hey Idiot, don't forget to buy this piece.
So, this is how they sit.
I bought a swivel mount to attach the motors to the channel, however I didn't get the piece that actually attaches to the channel. After a little research I found that the website clearly states "Hey Idiot, don't forget to buy this piece.
So, this is how they sit.
Time to tackle the feet. The feet will eventually be built from styrene over a wood base.
So I needed to remove the feet. No droids were harmed during the taking of this photograph.
There is a height difference that I needed to correct from the front to the back feet. To fix this I need to add an extra board to front feet. I disassembled all the feet and I bored out some space for the nut to go over the caster.
Once that was completed, I decided that the feet should be six and half inches long with the toes. So I cut down the top portion to 4-3/8 inches at a 45 degree angle.
With the wood cut down to the right length, I was able to lay out the cuts on the styrene and cut most of the parts for all the feet.
Next, I was able to attach the rear wheel assembly and attach the casters. Then reassemble the feet.
So I needed to remove the feet. No droids were harmed during the taking of this photograph.
There is a height difference that I needed to correct from the front to the back feet. To fix this I need to add an extra board to front feet. I disassembled all the feet and I bored out some space for the nut to go over the caster.
Once that was completed, I decided that the feet should be six and half inches long with the toes. So I cut down the top portion to 4-3/8 inches at a 45 degree angle.
With the wood cut down to the right length, I was able to lay out the cuts on the styrene and cut most of the parts for all the feet.
Next, I was able to attach the rear wheel assembly and attach the casters. Then reassemble the feet.
Happy New Year! It has been over four months since I have worked on this droid. With work and some personal issues keeping me from finishing him. Well, finally I have gotten back to work.
I started today with where I left off, on the feet. I already cut the main pieces.
I used screws to attach the styrene to the wood.
I then used styrene angle strips to frame the foot and give it some interest. It is also adding strength.
I finished off the toe area with smaller pieces of styrene.
Then repeat three more times.
I wrapped up my day with coating all four feet with a little Bondo.
I started today with where I left off, on the feet. I already cut the main pieces.
I used screws to attach the styrene to the wood.
I then used styrene angle strips to frame the foot and give it some interest. It is also adding strength.
I finished off the toe area with smaller pieces of styrene.
Then repeat three more times.
I wrapped up my day with coating all four feet with a little Bondo.
Reassembled the front feet and glued on the aluminum flexible tube that will make up the leg.
The rear feet also were partially reassembled and the motor wires were installed through the feet.
However, I decided to change how the motor setup was going to be in each foot. I posted a while back how the setup would work and now I plan to simplify the whole thing,
Disassembling the original idea.
The new plan a single hub attached directly to the motor.
The rear feet also were partially reassembled and the motor wires were installed through the feet.
However, I decided to change how the motor setup was going to be in each foot. I posted a while back how the setup would work and now I plan to simplify the whole thing,
Disassembling the original idea.
The new plan a single hub attached directly to the motor.
XandofTerra
New Member
This thing is shaping up really nicely! I think you've come up with a good compromise between static and motive too. It would have been waaaay too complex to try and work out an actual 4-leg walking system, but adding in the sliders for that shuffling effect will probably turn out really good with the foot motors to propel it. Are you going to work the motors on a timer to coincide with the shuffling of the feet as well? Also the weathering that you've done on the internal box so far is excellent!
Thanks Xando,
I am going to either simply control it with the RC transmitter or work out a way that allows the motors to spin alternately. The weathering inside the box is just the beginning. I basically have sprayed the whole droid flat black and plan on layering the colors over it for a really old and used look.
