Paper models and fiberglass/resin, tips?

[dropshipbob]

I'm thinking of trying my hand at a 1:1 paper model, but what the surface to be nice and even. From what I have seen, people take these finished paper models and then put fiberglass or resin over the surface and then sand it smooth?

Are there any specific ways to go about this? It would seem to me that the weight of the fiberglass or resin would cause the part to collapse, or that the paper would soak it up causing a big mess.

If you have done this and have tips or suggestions, please chime in, I'd love to know more.

 

[clonesix]

If you add fiberglass to the outside, you lose detail and make a lot more work for yourself.

If I were to try this, I would start with a spray coat of lacquer, let dry, repeat. This will stiffen and seal the paper. Then run a small amount of resin on the inside, not the outside of the model. Let cure, and add more resin as desired.

 

[Nwerke]

Just spray lacquer can have a bad effect on paper models if you get it wrong. What thickness of card do you envisage using?

 

[dropshipbob]

Clonesix, that does sound like a better way to go.

Nwerke, I have no idea, hence the creation of this thread.
What would you suggest as to what kind/weight of paper to use? My project is a 1:1 Terminator endoskeleton, so it should be around 6 feet tall.

 

[Sparticle]

I made a few thing with cardboard/cardstock that I finished with auto body paint.
Dr. Doom mask
Gene Simmons 'Demon' Godzilla boots
Darth Vader face and shoulder armor
THAT usually gives it a fairly sturdy shell to work with.

 

[Darth Mawr]

Guys on the 501st use the Pepakura method all the time. Make the paper model with card stock. When finished use fiberglass resin to coat the outside of the model. Then fiberglass the inside of the model to make it ridged. The resin makes the card stock slightly ridged but maintains the details until you can fiberglass the inside. Once fiberglassed you can use bondo to smooth the outside if needed.

 

[houdiniguy]

lovelovethumbsup:thumbsup

 

[Goodwolf]

Guys on the 501st use the Pepakura method all the time. Make the paper model with card stock. When finished use fiberglass resin to coat the outside of the model. Then fiberglass the inside of the model to make it ridged. The resin makes the card stock slightly ridged but maintains the details until you can fiberglass the inside. Once fiberglassed you can use bondo to smooth the outside if needed.

Yep, Sirken, a member here and in the 501st has used that method to make Halo armor before, with pretty good results.

 

[Nwerke]

Clonesix, that does sound like a better way to go.

Nwerke, I have no idea, hence the creation of this thread.
What would you suggest as to what kind/weight of paper to use? My project is a 1:1 Terminator endoskeleton, so it should be around 6 feet tall.

On anything thick enough for a big 1:1 project like that, clonesix's lacquer method should work fine. You'd want something pretty heavy, not paper and not cardboard but proper single-layer thick card.

 

[clonesix]

Now that I know what your project is, I suggest bumping it up a notch to 0.030" styrene. You can print out the pattern pieces on your home printer, give the back a dusting of spray glue and attach to the styrene.

I am assuming that you got this idea from the papercraft threads. I saw the guy who made the endo out of cardstock, and I was inspired a bit myself.

Also, be sure to build in a well ventilated area, or by the time you finish your endo, you will have major lung/brain damage. This has been a public service announcement. Carry on.

 

[BlindSquirrel]

I use Staples Brand Cover stock. It folds nicely, not to thick to blade cut and accepts the resin really nicely. Best of all it comes in a tabloid pack of 100 for about $13.

 

[Nwerke]

Now that I know what your project is, I suggest bumping it up a notch to 0.030" styrene. You can print out the pattern pieces on your home printer, give the back a dusting of spray glue and attach to the styrene.

I was assuming the medium was the point. I do a bit of card modelling and it's always good fun. You could print out a nice colour version on normal paper and spray-adhesive it to thick card, then you'll have a pre-finished piece. That said there's no question that most paper models look like paper models (some exceptions obviously. Local guy has an unbelievable 1/144 Bismarck.)

OTOH if you're out to build the best looking Endo that you can, then I back clonesix 100% here. Make it in 'real' modelling materials and you'll get a more faithful result.

 

[Chiok]

If you use polyester resin for the fibreglass, you shouldn't have any problems as it is a technique used by many for hard-shelled Pepakura models. Troubles that can occur are the model warping during the curing process due to the weight of resin or poor support or letting the resin cure with the model off kilter.

I've normally used card stock, about 180-220gsm I think, goes through a printer fine and has good stability. Resin will soak into the card if the cure time is slow (20-30 minutes) but if it's 10-12 minutes, it will just sit on top. Not that it's an issue with soaking in, just again make sure the model is properly supported to prevent warping.

The general idea is as described, make the paper model, coat of resin on the outside, fibreglass and resin on the inside, then sand the outside smooth. You can sand right through the card if you need to, the fibreglass is there to support.

A tip you might find useful if you are using Pepakura, if you're going for a curve instead of an edge, don't fold the card at the fold line, just bend it. Saves alot of sanding and filling later.

 

[ROBOSTEVE 0671]

Great thread and very handy, I'm starting work shortly on some Mando Armour using card as a base then resin and FB to firm the shapes up.

I've done this kind of work before with Predator helmets and used card as a base. It works a treat! :thumbsup

 

[dropshipbob]

Wow, some great suggestions, thanks everyone!

Another question for all of you...

If one is printing off a large item on a home printer, what do you do if the piece is REALLY big? Like, bigger than the material you're printing on?

Do you print it off in sections, match all the pieces up and then glue onto the card stock or styrene?

Since this was going to be so big, I had planned on taking it to a local print shop that can print big stuff to card stock, they can print 3 feet wide by however long it needs to be. And if it's B&W, it's super cheap.

 

[Nwerke]

Consider having it output on a plotter instead? You can get paper up to ludicrous sizes...

 

[Fulcrum]

I have done alot of this with my family.Here is what we use.
-110lbs cardstock
-a thin layer of glass and resin on the underside "fold triangle shaped tubes for bracing to help the warping"
-Mud "1:1 by volume mixture of polyester resin and bondo"for the outer surface, it sands great.

 

[Chiok]

If it's really big, then dividing the pieces up on several sheets is the only way to go with a home printer. Pepakura is designed so that when a model is "unfolded" into 2D, it places the parts on several A4 sheets that then get cut out and stuck together. So there really is no need to go to a print unit for a massive piece of paper.

Another interesting point, is that it is generally better to use an inkjet printer as opposed to a laser printer. Inkjets have better registration than laser due to their design and you may find that you model is slightly the wrong size or shape or doesn't line up quite right if you use laser.

You should also be able to print straight onto cardstock or thin styrene if you manually feed one sheet at a time, so you avoid the tedious process of sticking paper to sheet.

 

[dropshipbob]

Consider having it output on a plotter instead? You can get paper up to ludicrous sizes...

A plotter, like the kind that taps little holes in paper, or the kind that cuts out vinyl for signs? Wouldn't the image need to be in vector? All I have are Jpegs.


Fulcrum-Doesn't the Bondo dry pretty fast? And where would I get polyester resin?

 

[Contec]

And where would I get polyester resin?

You can get it at Autoshops or places that have fiberglass for boats.