Padme's blaster project - ELG-3A - screenaccurate details and proportions - idealized metal and wood materials
- Thread starter eethan
- Start date
Merci Olivier
so, the idea is that the trigger will be fonctional, however, this is the one thing i'm postponing a bit to solve right now as I need to finish the 2 prototypes and an additional one of them that is going to the US with a deadline soon for a pretty cool reason that might be revealed later on if the concerned party wants too
The original one doesn't seem to be fonctional, I would say it's molded as part of the resin handle.
Hello there
first, I wanted to share the view from my workshop today:
it's a pretty peacefull and quiet landscape, except for the daily Ferrari sightings. The guy usually passes by with a very modern Ferrari, but today was a 512! one of my favs!
sorry, back to business!
so first, I wanted to share a couple pics of an egg that i polished a bit more, pretty cool! really looks like actual chrome:
ok, so, another very cool and unexpected feature that I discoved on the amazing refs I had access too, the whole body has a very slight taper to it. it's subtle but it hads so much dynamic to the shape. The only issue is that this is super boring and annoying to do on the lathe... the taper is 0.5° which is super small and difficult to setup and I have to use the small cariage of the lathe to do the taper which is not automated and can move only half of the length of the piece, so I have to do it in two times and try to not get too much of a step in the middle...
and here is a photo of the 3 advanced blasters with the tappered one in the middle:
and here with just one other to compare:
once again, it's really subtle but you can really feel it's there. The blaster would be very plain and tubular if the taper was not there either.
there you go, a really annoying feature for me to replicate, but one very important detail that really puts this replica on another level I hope
cheers
first, I wanted to share the view from my workshop today:
it's a pretty peacefull and quiet landscape, except for the daily Ferrari sightings. The guy usually passes by with a very modern Ferrari, but today was a 512! one of my favs!
sorry, back to business!
so first, I wanted to share a couple pics of an egg that i polished a bit more, pretty cool! really looks like actual chrome:
ok, so, another very cool and unexpected feature that I discoved on the amazing refs I had access too, the whole body has a very slight taper to it. it's subtle but it hads so much dynamic to the shape. The only issue is that this is super boring and annoying to do on the lathe... the taper is 0.5° which is super small and difficult to setup and I have to use the small cariage of the lathe to do the taper which is not automated and can move only half of the length of the piece, so I have to do it in two times and try to not get too much of a step in the middle...
and here is a photo of the 3 advanced blasters with the tappered one in the middle:
and here with just one other to compare:
once again, it's really subtle but you can really feel it's there. The blaster would be very plain and tubular if the taper was not there either.
there you go, a really annoying feature for me to replicate, but one very important detail that really puts this replica on another level I hope
cheers
ID10T
Sr Member
This is not a particular blaster I am interested in, but I am a former guitar maker and a decent machinist, and wanted to offer a couple tips you may find helpful.
I’ll start with the taper. I’ve also made a few pool cues, and those have a slight taper over a long length. The “trick” I developed was to use a boring head (normally used on a knee mill) in the tail stock with the desired offset dialed in. Then, in place of the boring bar, you install the small live center. You create an offset tail stock. Some larger lathes allow you to move the tail stock out of alignment to do the same thing, but the boring head worked great and could be removed without disrupting the tail stock being on “dead” center. You can’t do a huge offset, unless you get creative at the chuck end. The offset causes the part to “wobble” in the chuck, and you should use a depth stop and other precautions to keep things from flying around the room.
Second thing is threads.
The thing with single pointing threads is that right handed ones always head into the chuck. What I prefer to do is to set up the tool on the back side of the work and run the lathe in reverse. Then I can start the tool at the relief adjacent to the chuck side and let the tool run off the part with each pass, away from the chuck. This is particularly helpful with ID threads, especially if they’re deep. Use a dial indicator against the apron to indicate the bottom or end of the thread. Then when you catch your mark on the threading wheel, each cut will begin perfectly. Then, again, you let the tool run out of the hole.
Single point threads are simple, yet very satisfying when done well. Nothing like mating threads you’ve made, and having them work!
And your work looks very nice. I’m sure your instruments are as well!
I’ll start with the taper. I’ve also made a few pool cues, and those have a slight taper over a long length. The “trick” I developed was to use a boring head (normally used on a knee mill) in the tail stock with the desired offset dialed in. Then, in place of the boring bar, you install the small live center. You create an offset tail stock. Some larger lathes allow you to move the tail stock out of alignment to do the same thing, but the boring head worked great and could be removed without disrupting the tail stock being on “dead” center. You can’t do a huge offset, unless you get creative at the chuck end. The offset causes the part to “wobble” in the chuck, and you should use a depth stop and other precautions to keep things from flying around the room.
Second thing is threads.
The thing with single pointing threads is that right handed ones always head into the chuck. What I prefer to do is to set up the tool on the back side of the work and run the lathe in reverse. Then I can start the tool at the relief adjacent to the chuck side and let the tool run off the part with each pass, away from the chuck. This is particularly helpful with ID threads, especially if they’re deep. Use a dial indicator against the apron to indicate the bottom or end of the thread. Then when you catch your mark on the threading wheel, each cut will begin perfectly. Then, again, you let the tool run out of the hole.
Single point threads are simple, yet very satisfying when done well. Nothing like mating threads you’ve made, and having them work!
And your work looks very nice. I’m sure your instruments are as well!
AnubisGuard
Master Member
Maybe a dumb question, but are you sure the taper isn't lens distortion? It being such a minor amount makes me suspicious.
hey, thank you for your tips. I have a small workbench lathe though, no way for me i think to do what you refer to in the first part. I also have to do all my operation in a very clear order. doing the tapper first would mean I can't chuck my piece from the tappered end anymore. no worries, it works well so far
thanks
Hey,
so, I tried to model the blaster in everypossible way and it always came down to that taper. there is one obvious photo that I have where the taper is very clear and the blaster is seen in perspective from the front. so the taper should normaly be inverted because of the perspective.
Also, the blaster was probably modelled by hand, it's very assymetric for real and the taper is probably just a result of manual operations, especially when they rounded the forward end
Once again, it's pretty subtle, but when you compare a straight blaster as usually reproduced and one with a tapper, the shape is so much more dynamic and interesting
ID10T
Sr Member
I wasn’t questioning the order of operations; just giving some tips applicable to specific operations.hey, thank you for your tips. I have a small workbench lathe though, no way for me i think to do what you refer to in the first part. I also have to do all my operation in a very clear order. doing the tapper first would mean I can't chuck my piece from the tappered end anymore. no worries, it works well so far
thanks
Sometimes making a nest, or mandrel (like your threaded one) is the way to go.
Last edited:
hello guys,
I went back to the wood handles today, they need to move forward as well
first of all, routing all the rounded edges with the machine:
then, finishing by hand the parts where the machine can't reach. When I say my props are handmade, I really mean it ahah:
here is what it looks like tonight. the main part of the handle is almost done and I still need to round and finish all the bottom parts:
I hope you like it
I went back to the wood handles today, they need to move forward as well
first of all, routing all the rounded edges with the machine:
then, finishing by hand the parts where the machine can't reach. When I say my props are handmade, I really mean it ahah:
here is what it looks like tonight. the main part of the handle is almost done and I still need to round and finish all the bottom parts:
I hope you like it
Hello there,
not a lot to show today, but still moving forward.
I did the concave shape at the top of the handlet to craddle the body tube, took me a long time to setup a jig to hold the handles to the right angle, in the center of two rails for the router and all... not easy. But in the end it worked nicelly.
I do a first pass in the center at the full depth of where the tube will actually sit, then a second pass, larger but less deep, to have a rough curvature matching the tube size. then i'll just have to finish by hand.
first pass here:
first and second pass:
and all of them done:
cheers
don't hesitate to comment guys, I talking a bit alone here
not a lot to show today, but still moving forward.
I did the concave shape at the top of the handlet to craddle the body tube, took me a long time to setup a jig to hold the handles to the right angle, in the center of two rails for the router and all... not easy. But in the end it worked nicelly.
I do a first pass in the center at the full depth of where the tube will actually sit, then a second pass, larger but less deep, to have a rough curvature matching the tube size. then i'll just have to finish by hand.
first pass here:
first and second pass:
and all of them done:
cheers
don't hesitate to comment guys, I talking a bit alone here
Hello there,
not a lot to show today, but still moving forward.
I did the concave shape at the top of the handlet to craddle the body tube, took me a long time to setup a jig to hold the handles to the right angle, in the center of two rails for the router and all... not easy. But in the end it worked nicelly.
I do a first pass in the center at the full depth of where the tube will actually sit, then a second pass, larger but less deep, to have a rough curvature matching the tube size. then i'll just have to finish by hand.
first pass here:
View attachment 1443309
first and second pass:
View attachment 1443310
and all of them done:
View attachment 1443311
cheers
don't hesitate to comment guy
It's gorgious! Can't wait to see it finished buddyHello there,
not a lot to show today, but still moving forward.
I did the concave shape at the top of the handlet to craddle the body tube, took me a long time to setup a jig to hold the handles to the right angle, in the center of two rails for the router and all... not easy. But in the end it worked nicelly.
I do a first pass in the center at the full depth of where the tube will actually sit, then a second pass, larger but less deep, to have a rough curvature matching the tube size. then i'll just have to finish by hand.
first pass here:
View attachment 1443309
first and second pass:
View attachment 1443310
and all of them done:
View attachment 1443311
cheers
don't hesitate to comment guys, I talking a bit alone here
Hey there, a bit more of a sexy update today
first routing a basic rounded edge on all edges of the bottom parts:
then, again, finishing everything by hand until the shape is matching the references perfectly:
then, there is a very subtle detail again, but the bottom of the end of the handle is not flat, it is a bit rounded along the long axis. hard to show in photos but here is a comparison:
and now for a few shots of where we stand. I still need to round the bottom of all the Pao Ferro handles, then round a bit all the hard edges of the bottom part, but it's getting close
I hope you guys like it
cheers
first routing a basic rounded edge on all edges of the bottom parts:
then, again, finishing everything by hand until the shape is matching the references perfectly:
then, there is a very subtle detail again, but the bottom of the end of the handle is not flat, it is a bit rounded along the long axis. hard to show in photos but here is a comparison:
and now for a few shots of where we stand. I still need to round the bottom of all the Pao Ferro handles, then round a bit all the hard edges of the bottom part, but it's getting close
I hope you guys like it
cheers
AnubisGuard
Master Member
I'm drooling over here.
Hello there,
Today, I worked on cutting triggers. Pretty happy that I managed to do that without having to subcontract. I was a bit scared of the 6mm thick aluminium but it worked nicelly
so, here is my template for the router:
and the back side:
after it's routed:
Then, there is some light sanding to do with something with the oposite curved shape. I consider myself a very unlucky person, funnily enough, however, there is a constant in the universe that there is always something round of the right size in arm's reach when I need it in my workshop.
This might have something to do with that quote from my wife just yesterday
So, in this case, the piece was a left over from the walnut piece that I cut to do the first two handles. perfect match to the needed curve!
one straight from the router and one finished:
that's it for today
Today, I worked on cutting triggers. Pretty happy that I managed to do that without having to subcontract. I was a bit scared of the 6mm thick aluminium but it worked nicelly
so, here is my template for the router:
and the back side:
after it's routed:
Then, there is some light sanding to do with something with the oposite curved shape. I consider myself a very unlucky person, funnily enough, however, there is a constant in the universe that there is always something round of the right size in arm's reach when I need it in my workshop.
This might have something to do with that quote from my wife just yesterday
So, in this case, the piece was a left over from the walnut piece that I cut to do the first two handles. perfect match to the needed curve!
one straight from the router and one finished:
that's it for today
Hello there,
I was able to do quite a bit today
I worked on the first egg shaped pieces for the front of the blaster.
First, I turned down to the good diameter the back of the piece, so it fits precisely the inside of the body tube.
then, the piece is turned around and I turn the front part to a very slightly larger diameter to have a very very subtle, almost unoticeable line between the two parts when they are assembled:
then, we go back to what we already know for the back piece, first we turn a 5° angle:
then the rough shape is done using a large pointy tool:
and refined more and more with the round tool until it matches the template:
then filed, sanded and polished a first time to see if any marks are left. they will be final polished later on:
and now for where we stand right now! quite happy with where we are now! first production pieces should be ready soon to photograph I hope:
I hope you like it
I was able to do quite a bit today
I worked on the first egg shaped pieces for the front of the blaster.
First, I turned down to the good diameter the back of the piece, so it fits precisely the inside of the body tube.
then, the piece is turned around and I turn the front part to a very slightly larger diameter to have a very very subtle, almost unoticeable line between the two parts when they are assembled:
then, we go back to what we already know for the back piece, first we turn a 5° angle:
then the rough shape is done using a large pointy tool:
and refined more and more with the round tool until it matches the template:
then filed, sanded and polished a first time to see if any marks are left. they will be final polished later on:
and now for where we stand right now! quite happy with where we are now! first production pieces should be ready soon to photograph I hope:
I hope you like it
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