Obi-Wan transistors

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Obi1Kenobi

New Member
Also what I noticed while making this picture is that to my eyes this little highlight is the "C" letter , although I can't say for sure maybe someone that have a "h" cap can compare
View attachment 1382742
I think you may be right about what’s on the end cap. That’s very interesting.

First, you nailed the IC (”transistor”) brand, model and size.

Then you nailed the IC spacing. That’s something I never noticed before.

Then I think you also have the correct end cap. Also, a highlight I never thought was significant before.

However, if you plan to stick with the Tunisia, you’ve got to flip the cubes on your faucet handle.
 

v312

Active Member
I think you may be right about what’s on the end cap. That’s very interesting.

First, you nailed the IC (”transistor”) brand, model and size.

Then you nailed the IC spacing. That’s something I never noticed before.

Then I think you also have the correct end cap. Also, a highlight I never thought was significant before.

However, if you plan to stick with the Tunisia, you’ve got to flip the cubes on your faucet handle.
Thanks for the tip! I have not really paid attention to how the cubes are setup
 

corliss1

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I also fall into the "end cap is missing" camp, but it's very very hard to tell for certain with the images we have.
 

v312

Active Member
Some people maintain that the cap is actually missing in that image, and you're seeing the inside of the faucet knob.
Hmm, looking closer - I actually might agree to this. Mine is a replica though so I guess no point to try to recreate that angle without the cap and compare.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

corliss1

Well-Known Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
So I took this garbage picture where the lighting isn't right at all:

133747812_212502940425449_3897899557602831752_n.png


but you can see even from that the reflection is in the right spot as the example image posted. I think it's too high physically on the part to the the "C"
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

AstroZopyros

Active Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Also what I noticed while making this picture is that to my eyes this little highlight is the "C" letter , although I can't say for sure maybe someone that have a "h" cap can compare
View attachment 1382742
To me it looks like the cap is off completely in the Tunisia photo. You can see the inner ledge the cap would sit on. Could be my eyes playing tricks on me though...
 

Halliwax

Legendary Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I picked these up, not the right MA model, but they are the right company and size. I am happy they're the correct size, every Motorola one i've seen or bought are all the incorrect size, plus I might sudge up the writing underneath so you can't really make it out like on the real prop. The most important thing to me is I can tell from staring at the photos available till my eyes go buggy the size is correct.

View attachment 1382683

Those look great!
 

v312

Active Member
Little update on the experiment with the stamp. It didn't really work, but mostly because the ink I have apparently only sticks well to my fingers.

After some frustration with the software crashing when I try to print the stamp I finally tried it on another pc, but then the fonts there were not the same so I think the "ME" ended up little too big and the datecode too small. Maybe with a proper ink it will actually work but I don't really want to invest more into this. Here's what it looks like

Stamp.JPG
last.JPG
 
Last edited:

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Jediseth

Active Member
Not being able to fit my 10 pin Marconi's inside the repo and vintage airplane washers you've seen posted around these parts I went hunting and found some vintage airplane washers that allow the Marconi to fit inside. They seem more screen accurate then anything i've seen or got my hands on so far. A little doctoring to make them perfect, but you don't need to stick them on lathe or drill press and bore them out. You would need to trim off the bottom of the Marconi lip to push them up far enough into the washer but boy they are close and the dimensions seem exact.
Z2IQQD3.jpg
 
Last edited:

Jediseth

Active Member
If they are not too hard to drill looks like they can be converted to match the real ones very well
For me I feel like I found a better option. The other vintage aircraft ones ones I’ve seen people using and I bought some have the interior chamfer to almost a point which is inaccurate. Plus for these more correct 10 pin Marconi the hole isn’t big enough for them to fit through. I was having to flip them on the other side so the top of the washer was wider, boring them out for a bigger I.D. putting a new chamfer on that side and sanding off the brass color. The only benefit was they were vintage. These ones I found just need a chamfer which is the hardest part, but they are closer in the other ways described. Maybe next time I’ll find the exact ones. Fingers crossed.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top