Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

[Cry-Lo Ren]

Hi there,

Thank you for the reply.

Are you stating that you would be willing to do it for $150 or that $150 is the price range for someone to do it for me?

 

[cavx]

Hi there,

Thank you for the reply.

Are you stating that you would be willing to do it for $150 or that $150 is the price range for someone to do it for me?

That is the price of the parts for the job. Labor is about 10x that.

 

[DragonGalvy]

I just found this online - I wonder if sugru could work for those of you who want to change the overall shape of the midsole (such as the toebox or heel) : http://www.newslinq.com/sugru/

 

[MitasTouch]

I just found this online - I wonder if sugru could work for those of you who want to change the overall shape of the midsole (such as the toebox or heel) : http://www.newslinq.com/sugru/

I used this on my MP MAGs. It worked well.

 

[cavx]

I just found this online - I wonder if sugru could work for those of you who want to change the overall shape of the midsole (such as the toebox or heel) : http://www.newslinq.com/sugru/

Yeah that has got to be easier than the build up method I did.

 

[DragonGalvy]

it has a grey model, plus the ad shows how easy it is to add texture, which the V2s need. I finally got one clear sole completely on (the easiest way was to slice out two lengthways rows of pyramids, so unfortunately it is not one piece, but when I finish the other one I'll soon find out if it holds on well enough

 

[MitasTouch]

I wonder how airair is doing with his new shoes.

 

[cavx]

@DragonGalvy what size are they? That looks really neat. Super glue will be your friend here. It sticks that elastomer good.

I had to bend the two parts around the cutout to fit mine and it creates a very slight bow to the thread line, but allows it to remain a single piece. Given your work on this, I would suggest repeating the same for the other shoe now.


@MitasTouch still no further word. The last I heard was @airair was not happy with the way they wanted to do the finger pull holes because they could not get their head around the cut and fold method. If that is really the hold up, I would be getting them to sew and not cut the hole. That way, those of us that can do a mod like that will have the fabric needed to make it work. For everyone else, just cut out the hole staying inside the stitching.

 

[DragonGalvy]

I've used a combination of shoe goo and super glue to hold everything in place while the shoe goo dries. fingers crossed! I used a 'snap knife' to cut out the two rows of pyramids.
My V2s are US 9.5.
Are you interested in my size 9.5 outsoles to make closer size molds? They came off without breaking.
yes i agree that part is going to be hard to replicate as tried to make a prototype 'finger pull' wing inside piece more like the RDs with some yoga mat and random cloth glued to it but couldn't make it neat at the hole. Anyone got any ideas how you could make the material go through the hole and be glued down on the other side without seeing those 'cut marks' ? It's almost like you need more material than you can get into that spot. Then again, I'm no seamstress.....

 

[cavx]

DragonGalvy,

Yes I will take them. Even though I am supposed to have some 10's on route, I am curious to see what would be better.

I did manage to get finger pull holes done back when I was playing with that mesh (which I have a roll off still) and they came out OK. The trick is to fold and glue one edge at a time and from memory, the long side is the last to be done.

 

[DragonGalvy]

For anyone interested in going battery and electronics free, this is a V2 with Cavx's clear soles and GITD components added after about a minute or less of direct sunlight. I like it. Sorry the photo's a bit grainy, Apple cameras aren't as good as people make them out to be, they don't like low light apparently.

 

[cavx]

Cut into the D shapes looks way better than my flooded pair. I have one bit left too and have myself a new clear set ready to go

Something I have noticed with mine is that more exposure to sunlight, the more sensitive the GIDT seems to be. Now even if I am watching a movie in my cinema, the reflected light from the screen can be enough to make them glow at a low level in the dark room. I noticed this after watching ART OF FLIGHT which has lots of bright whites on screen.

My photo was (avatar) was taken after direct sunlight exposure and the shoes placed on the kitchen floor (there are no windows there) and the lights are on. No messing with the exposure settings. I have an older Samsung Galaxy (S2) and used the standard camera settings to point and shoot.

 

[rhodrijen]

it has a grey model, plus the ad shows how easy it is to add texture, which the V2s need. I finally got one clear sole completely on (the easiest way was to slice out two lengthways rows of pyramids, so unfortunately it is not one piece, but when I finish the other one I'll soon find out if it holds on well enough

View attachment 486431

Wow! that's a really clean finish man, nice work

 

[DragonGalvy]

Thanks. You can do these things yourself, it requires a lot of patience fiddling with it (and that my mini grinder keeps running out of battery even when plugged in, lol)
I still have the left shoe to put the main piece onto....... sigh.
I'd put new rubber soles on shoes before if they were still good except the outsole but never fussed so much with curves and things, usually just in big blocks.
This is my very first pair of V2s which I bought as soon as they came out so the original soles really needed replacing. They were super yellow. Even had to repaint the midsole (hence why mine don't have splatter) but the rest of the shoes are still good. Thinking about getting a whole new pair of V2s to replace the sole straight away when I can spare the cash for both the V2s and the soles. Just got the Air Max 90 infrared 25th anniversary release and the grey/aqua Command Force's so spent enough for now, lol. Maybe next month.

 

[MrSouthpaw]

For anyone interested in going battery and electronics free, this is a V2 with Cavx's clear soles and GITD components added after about a minute or less of direct sunlight. I like it. Sorry the photo's a bit grainy, Apple cameras aren't as good as people make them out to be, they don't like low light apparently.
View attachment 486814

A flashlight with a Cree LED bulb will charge up that GITD in about 5-10 seconds, and it's convenient when the Sun is down.

 

[cavx]

I can't believe those soles have cracked yet again, this time they have even split a bit up the sides. So I have used Tarzan Grip because it is supposed be a flexible superglue and we shall see how long that lasts. When I opened the gap to pour in the glue (I filled a small syringe to control the flow), I think I could see the pink cardboard.

When I finally get around to molding and casting my own, they will have a 6mm outer layer of rubber with a shore of A65+ and the solid bed of soft rubber around A20. The get the idea of the holes in the mid-sole is to keep the weight down but this constant cracking is wearing thin (yes pun intended).

- - - Updated - - -

A flashlight with a Cree LED bulb will charge up that GITD in about 5-10 seconds, and it's convenient when the Sun is down.

Camera flash on the smart phone or high beam from the car headlights also works to give a quick charge at night.

 

[DragonGalvy]

darn, breaking again?!
Those holes must get really uncomfortable to walk on I guess that's why they put the cardboard there. I had some Nike Flights years ago where the midsole fell apart and the genuine Nikes even had a couple of holes printed in the midsole, but only in the area where the arch of your foot is, so not much impact would be applied there. I never remember feeling them, possibly because the foam was soft, too. It did surprise me that they did the same thing as the cheap shoes though.
That'll be a big project, casting your own midsoles! Good luck!

 

[cavx]

darn, breaking again?!
Those holes must get really uncomfortable to walk on I guess that's why they put the cardboard there. I had some Nike Flights years ago where the midsole fell apart and the genuine Nikes even had a couple of holes printed in the midsole, but only in the area where the arch of your foot is, so not much impact would be applied there. I never remember feeling them, possibly because the foam was soft, too. It did surprise me that they did the same thing as the cheap shoes though.
That'll be a big project, casting your own midsoles! Good luck!

The holes allow less rubber and keep the weight down, so it makes sense to do this in parts like under the arch. Placing these holes under the ball of the foot is just dumb because that is one of the highest stress points of the shoe. Anyway, it is what it is.

Yeah, still modding the old V1 soles. I chose these over the V2 because they have a closer profile shape to the RD. Not sure how or why the V2s got missed with this. I am interested in that Surgu because it would make filling in the cavity easier between the V1 concave (from above) profile to allow the V2 modded outrigger to marry up. I could also shape around the outsole so they don't stick out as much as they do. In the meantime, it looks like I will be continuing with using the same rubber I have been. I could just use clay, but want to know that all the parts work 100% before investing in silicone.

I also re-worked the MAG patterns from the Sole Collector article - Hardest Shoe to Retro. They are looking pretty sweet. Not the easiest thing to make though because you have to start with the inner liner and work out from there to ensure the all the hidden seams remain hidden.

 

[cavx]

Well the good news is that the Tarzan Grip has worked and I have not got any rubber splits since repairing the shoes with that. I wore them all day today and it held up.

 

[DragonGalvy]

http://sneakernews.com/2015/06/12/the-newest-hyperdunk-resembles-the-nike-mag/
At least the MAGs are still getting a mention, though these things are a poor resemblance in my eyes.