Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

[MitasTouch]

I must have missed it. What kind of paint is used to lighten the grey sole?

 

[cavx]

I must have missed it. What kind of paint is used to lighten the grey sole?

It is some flexible model paint. You'll have to go back up to the last 5 pages to find the details.

 

[cavx]

last night I said:

Looking at my shoes again and I want to attempt a small cut (the length of the lights) underneath the sole along that line that runs along the outer edge. I want to see if it is possible to add something inside there to bring the base of the sole out a bit - say 1/4". This should give a more closer representation of the "outrigger" soles on both the movie prop and the 2011 MAG and if this works, will make these shoes look very cool.

If it works, I do intend to take a cast but before I do, I will also add pyramid mat to the base.

And tonight I did this

 

[optiprimo]

last night I said:


And tonight I did this
https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd....-9/1975080_10152282801263841_1858264260_n.jpg

That looks sweet man, What type of plastic or material did you put in to make it bulge? Great idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Taff83]

Awesome work Cavx! Original and innovative, great job!

@Mitas - http://bit.ly/1p00WxW

 

[cavx]

That looks sweet man, What type of plastic or material did you put in to make it bulge? Great idea.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks optiprimo

I used 3mm Poly-Carbonite because it flexes and cut out a wedge for each shoe. In plan (and that is how they sit in the shoe) they look like a really long D about 10mm wide.
I used a Dremel with a fine cutting wheel and used that line on the base of the sole as a cutting point.

It is not quite the right shape as I think the RD has more lean, but it might be possible to get this if I can get the clear (wow how yellow are they now?) rubber to come away from the grey mid-sole.

 

[cavx]

Awesome work Cavx! Original and innovative, great job!

@Mitas - http://bit.ly/1p00WxW

Thanks Taff83.

 

[Jedifyfe]

That's pretty cool cavx

 

[cavx]

That's pretty cool cavx

Thank you ModFather That is huge coming from you

 

[Jedifyfe]

I'm still a little confused on what exactly you did and is the shoe still flexible in the middle?

 

[cavx]

I'm still a little confused on what exactly you did and is the shoe still flexible in the middle?

Hope this tells a better story.

This is the look I want, just don't like yellow for the sole.

So using the fine cutting wheel, I sliced along the line you can see on the base of the sole. I marked to points so i didn't cut too far and then finished with a sharp blade.
From there, I peeled open the sole and worked the rubber away from the mid-sole.
I had pre-made my wedges and then kept working the rubber until I could get the poly-carb parts into the gap. So the grey you can see is the mid-sole and I have simply stretched the yellowing clear into a new shape. The polycarb will flex because it only 3mm think.

If you remember back to my last clear sole project, I used this pyramid mat as a mold which gave me a negative impression as the thread. I will be cutting and gluing this same mat to the base on the shoes to get a positive impression on the base of the sole this time. I also now have a vacuum chamber, so should be able to get bubble free casts.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[MitasTouch]

Would you be in the business of making clear soles for sale? Or mats rather. It would make more sense to sell mats for people to cut themselves depending in what size they have, using the V2 original soles as templates. I'd be up for that.

 

[cavx]

Not sure if I want to commit to anything for sale at this stage. I will be making my pair and a few others because I will have made a mold and I have to buy the Cold Cast Clear Clear Elastomer as a kit. This kit is not cheap (over $200 last time for 1.7KG) and with this stuff, there is no guarantee you will get the perfect result every time.

I did a "mat" thing last time and it does not give you the true accuracy because (like these shoes are now) you get the same pattern on the sides and the base. The real shoes have waffle on the sides and pyramids on the base. Casting the sole as it is in clear does not really move us forward from where we are either except that the soles are less likely to turn yellow or more to the point, will take way longer (years not months) to turn. Over time they will all yellow and you need to know that before you decide you want in if I do a run in the JY.

The stuff I bought last time had a UV stabilizer and I also added a small amount (not enought IMO) of blue pigment to the mix. Those soles are as clear today as when they were poured. It is just a shame they are littered with bubbles.

 

[MitasTouch]

Not sure if I want to commit to anything for sale at this stage. I will be making my pair and a few others because I will have made a mold and I have to buy the Cold Cast Clear Clear Elastomer as a kit. This kit is not cheap (over $200 last time for 1.7KG) and with this stuff, there is no guarantee you will get the perfect result every time.

I did a "mat" thing last time and it does not give you the true accuracy because (like these shoes are now) you get the same pattern on the sides and the base. The real shoes have waffle on the sides and pyramids on the base. Casting the sole as it is in clear does not really move us forward from where we are either except that the soles are less likely to turn yellow or more to the point, will take way longer (years not months) to turn. Over time they will all yellow and you need to know that before you decide you want in if I do a run in the JY.

The stuff I bought last time had a UV stabilizer and I also added a small amount (not enought IMO) of blue pigment to the mix. Those soles are as clear today as when they were poured. It is just a shame they are littered with bubbles.

Hmm. Well since the sides are the negative shape maybe just selling strips of that would do. But seeing how it is expensive to make all of it you will need quite a bit of people to be completley in. I know Brad would order enough for at least 5 people lol.

 

[cavx]

Strips or sheets waste so much material.

So the challenge is working out what sizes to do. I wear US9.5 and I have US8 on display. Given there is 1.5 size difference, it would make sense to also do a US11 as well, but I think Brads wear pair is US10, not sure about Taff83. How much difference is there between US9.5 and US10 and or US10 and US11? The guy that said he would help is US11 and huge BTTF fan, so makes sense to do his size as one of the three main sizes. Could these be trimmed down?

 

[optiprimo]

Hope this tells a better story.

I had pre-made my wedges and then kept working the rubber until I could get the poly-carb parts into the gap. So the grey you can see is the mid-sole and I have simply stretched the yellowing clear into a new shape. The polycarb will flex because it only 3mm think.
http://www.therpf.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=298874&d=1395027517

If you remember back to my last clear sole project, I used this pyramid mat as a mold which gave me a negative impression as the thread. I will be cutting and gluing this same mat to the base on the shoes to get a positive impression on the base of the sole this time. I also now have a vacuum chamber, so should be able to get bubble free casts.
http://www.therpf.com/attachments/f...-mag-shoes-sole-master-2.jpg-92744d1335750336
Hope that makes sense.

Hey cavx im not sure if you covered the area you cut open, but i think you could seal that easy with shoe goo and an ice cube to smoothen it out to make it solid. idk, it might work

 

[cavx]

Hey cavx im not sure if you covered the area you cut open, but i think you could seal that easy with shoe goo and an ice cube to smoothen it out to make it solid. idk, it might work

Yeah I have the Shoe Goo and a heap of ice cubes. I need to do that before I can take them for a test wear. Just contemplating how much sole do I fill in. I guess it doesn't matter because at some point soon, it all gets covered in pyramid mat anyway.

 

[optiprimo]

Yeah I have the Shoe Goo and a heap of ice cubes. I need to do that before I can take them for a test wear. Just contemplating how much sole do I fill in. I guess it doesn't matter because at some point soon, it all gets covered in pyramid mat anyway.

Can't wait to see how the clear stuff turns out. Yeah I agree, I don't think you need too much if you're covering it anyway.

 

[MitasTouch]

Strips or sheets waste so much material.

So the challenge is working out what sizes to do. I wear US9.5 and I have US8 on display. Given there is 1.5 size difference, it would make sense to also do a US11 as well, but I think Brads wear pair is US10, not sure about Taff83. How much difference is there between US9.5 and US10 and or US10 and US11? The guy that said he would help is US11 and huge BTTF fan, so makes sense to do his size as one of the three main sizes. Could these be trimmed down?

If you make the clear soles on order people would just have to measure the height and width of the sole parts from their shoes and tell you the measurements. You could then sell the sheets to maximize usage and minimize waste.

 

[joeyock]

what do you guys use to print the nike logo for the strap?