Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)

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When I first read that, I could not think how pissed Jedi would be after all the hard work he did to the V2s to look good.

Well he got paid for it, so I don't think his work would have been done for nothing xD! And most of the people are happy to have his version too, so :p
 
So the V3's were just shown!!!! They are 99% accurate. Blue Icy soles with the correct pyramid on the bottom and flared sides, EL in both the soles and strap, PERFECT LED's and they are 1/2" taller with the triangle pull loop!!! The material look to be the same as the V2's though. But they did manage to put the button and charge port in the correct spot. And they are going for $185!!!

Love this post and Emma's response lol..
 
CAVX has been holding out for so long on getting a pair of V2's, that I knew exactly what Brad was doing, and it was hilarious! :) It's all in good fun, and glad you finally got a pair CAVX. Happy modding!
 
...and it was hilarious! :) It's all in good fun...

Brady likey...Brady want wingies...

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I thought I would post just for anyone who may be doing a 3v Setup.

I was experimenting with some various AAA batteries.

a standard pair of energizer lithium - 2 x 1.5v gives great battery time, about 4 hours.

a standard pair of cheap duracell - 2 x 1.5v gives some good time, about 2.5 hours.

a pair of rechargeable nimh - 2 x 1.2v (still testing on these)

I wasn't sure whether rechargeable AAA would work, but on my new pair i'm working on,
I did a test with 2 x 1.2v Nimh rechargeable batteries and hey presto!
Works perfect!

So even 2.4v of 2 x AAA batteries will light up the entire shoe!
EL lights and LEDs no problem! Super Bright!

Cloneprops was right, a small voltage is more than enough and in my instance,
2 x 1.2v AAA rechargeables are perfect, cheap to get and recharge/replace.

I guess the only thing missing would be some way of having the batteries charge via a charger like you could with 9v, but I figure, it only takes a few seconds to take some batteries out and replace them.

So now thats got me thinking on Coin Cells, i'm pretty sure if I can find some high mah coin cells, it should be possible to further reduce the size of the batteries and therefore remove the need to have them in the soles, and move them externally into a modified ankle buckle, and making a charging point far easier to implement.

Coin Cells will definitely work in powering all the EL panels and LEDs, voltage is not an issue, the issue is battery mah, so will do some further experimenting to find a good combination.

I'll have to do some experimenting on that!
 
CAVX has been holding out for so long on getting a pair of V2's, that I knew exactly what Brad was doing, and it was hilarious! :) It's all in good fun, and glad you finally got a pair CAVX. Happy modding!

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At least I don't have to re-do the splatter. How good is this for out of the box?
 
Yeah I am lucky. The only thing I can 'fault' with these shoes is the right set of Heel Cup LEDs has moved or not been placed properly. They all work, just the lights don't quite line up with the bubble. Other than that, they are very good and I am very happy to have these. I am still going to continue with my scratch builds though.
 
the splatter is not even an issue for these shoes.
i don't know why people are concerned with splatter. if you look at the movie shoes, the soles are actually light grey and splater is minimal, especially if you inspect the screenshots and reference images of several screen used pairs.

i don't know why the RD versions have so much splatter as though its an integral part!
if you really must though, i guess doing it by hand is the only option.
 
i don't know why people are concerned with splatter. if you look at the movie shoes, the soles are actually light grey and splater is minimal, especially if you inspect the screenshots and reference images of several screen used pairs.

I agree. I think most people are trying to make these look like the RD's rather than the movie shoe. I like mine to be a cross between the two shoes. That's why I don't mind if they have the white/clear soles rather than the icy blue soles.
 
If I ever get around to my movie accurate pair, then I'm going to repaint the midsoles grey to cover up all of the factory splatter and do the movie specks. In the movie it's just mostly dots.
 
When I did my first clears, I added a small portion of the pigment so that it was only just noticeable in liquid state. After they cured, you could not really see the blue, but I think that has helped and why they are still perfectly today about a year on.

Now that I have a Vac Chamber I want to have another go at this. Because I really WANT the outrigger sole.
 
When I did my first clears, I added a small portion of the pigment so that it was only just noticeable in liquid state. After they cured, you could not really see the blue, but I think that has helped and why they are still perfectly today about a year on.

Now that I have a Vac Chamber I want to have another go at this. Because I really WANT the outrigger sole.

are you going to use the V2s to make some of the clear soles? or still sticking with V1?

i'm trying to think of an easy way to model the clear soles in some workable material and then put the waffle impressions in the sides, and diamond patterns underneath.

i've thought about air dry clay, and possibly some other soft drying materials. then making silicone moulds of those and then casting with clear rubber.

like Cloneprops did, to have the entire clear soles shape as it is, curved and everything in one piece, would probably be the best. although working out a way to make some flat pieces which can then be curved or stuck on is also an option.

i've never done anything of casting with clear polyurethane rubber yet, most of them seem to be toxic and require a respirator. I'm not sure what cloneprops used.
 
Both V1 and V2. I need to talk to a local forum member (sleepless) about this as he knows way more about molding and casting than I do, apparently there is a 2 part synthetic "clay" that (is soft and then dries hard) that you can press onto the surface of an item to take an impression. This is how I will preserve the waffle at the sides. I already have the pyramid mat for the base of the soles.

I'll probably do a flat pour and fold the mat, not 100% sure yet. The stuff I used last time was safe, it was just expensive, so I will make sure I have expert assistance this time, so I don't stuff up again.
 
sweet.... mmm clear.
Make sure you let us know how it turns out, and if its all good, those of us without access to Vac chambers might be interested in buying clear soles for our v1s or v2s...... or both :$ (says someone who owns multiples)
If anyone has re-glued some rubber soles onto the v1's, could you let me know what you used?
I'm trying to put new rubber grip onto the ones I wear to work (the black and yellow version) as the grip had all worn down but selleys shoe glue is TAKING FOR EVER cos i have to do only a bit at a time, and not holding on as strong as I expected.
Thanks in advance!
 
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