cavx
Master Member
Stay tuned for that...
SHOE GOO! It worked to glue the Cold Cast Clear Elastomer onto the V1 soles and has not even hinted as to lifting. It is clear and you smooth it with an ice cube.
Nike Mag V2 Mod Discussion (Page 58 Shopping List)
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Stay tuned for that...
SHOE GOO! It worked to glue the Cold Cast Clear Elastomer onto the V1 soles and has not even hinted as to lifting. It is clear and you smooth it with an ice cube.
airair
Sr Member
just a quick question for those that have also fully modified their V2s.
Where abouts are you guys leaving the wires in the soles, towards the middle or back of the shoe?
I'm finding that the Inverter wires (which are much thinner compared with the standard red/black wires i'm soldering them onto) are prone to snapping at the solder point, most likely because the wires have been placed nearer where the foot will bend.
One one pair I've made, its happened on one shoe, so i've moved all the wires towards the middle/heel part, then placed the double thickened eva sole inserts on top.
I don't know why they use such thin wires for the inverters, they are barely visible!
if they were at least the same thickness of the standard red/black cables im using for the rest of the setup, they would never have a chance of breaking.
Where abouts are you guys leaving the wires in the soles, towards the middle or back of the shoe?
I'm finding that the Inverter wires (which are much thinner compared with the standard red/black wires i'm soldering them onto) are prone to snapping at the solder point, most likely because the wires have been placed nearer where the foot will bend.
One one pair I've made, its happened on one shoe, so i've moved all the wires towards the middle/heel part, then placed the double thickened eva sole inserts on top.
I don't know why they use such thin wires for the inverters, they are barely visible!
if they were at least the same thickness of the standard red/black cables im using for the rest of the setup, they would never have a chance of breaking.
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Well I havent modded mine yet but I'd be tempted to put anything that would be hard or shouldn't move in the centre of the shoe, sort of like under your arch. (see pic)
Various brands of shoes have a hard plastic piece there on the outsole anyway (which, by the way, is in the perfect spot to kick-start motorbikes with) This would make the solder joints less likely to break as there's nothing flexing in that area and it would also give you the benefit of being able to put a cushioning element in the heel where the battery originally was. The v2s midsole foam is less cushiony than the v1's anyway.
Anyone else have any better suggestion?
Various brands of shoes have a hard plastic piece there on the outsole anyway (which, by the way, is in the perfect spot to kick-start motorbikes with) This would make the solder joints less likely to break as there's nothing flexing in that area and it would also give you the benefit of being able to put a cushioning element in the heel where the battery originally was. The v2s midsole foam is less cushiony than the v1's anyway.
Anyone else have any better suggestion?
airair
Sr Member
Yeah,
on all the modded pairs, i've done just that. I've moved all the cables towards the middle/back of the shoe so that when the soles are flexed, there is minimal chance of any thin wiring breaking.
I guess the only way to permanently solve this would be to have most of the wiring in the ankle buckle ala cloneprops.
on all the modded pairs, i've done just that. I've moved all the cables towards the middle/back of the shoe so that when the soles are flexed, there is minimal chance of any thin wiring breaking.
I guess the only way to permanently solve this would be to have most of the wiring in the ankle buckle ala cloneprops.
gigawatt
New Member
Re: Nike Mag V2 mod discussion and builds
Hey Guys, I'm working on the mods myself and learning a lot here so thanks for that. I was wondering if someone could help me with the Nike stickers at all? All the avery labels I can find in the UK are frosted not clear. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
Hey Guys, I'm working on the mods myself and learning a lot here so thanks for that. I was wondering if someone could help me with the Nike stickers at all? All the avery labels I can find in the UK are frosted not clear. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
cavx
Master Member
Send Taff83 a PM. He made some really good ones for his shoes.
Does the hook/loop on the collar/strap cause anyone (those of you that wear these) issues? I like the fact that it holds the strap in the position. I just think it needs to be on the inside because it catches when you pull the strap tight. I wonder if applying a piece of loop to the hook on the strap would work to solve this issue?
Does the hook/loop on the collar/strap cause anyone (those of you that wear these) issues? I like the fact that it holds the strap in the position. I just think it needs to be on the inside because it catches when you pull the strap tight. I wonder if applying a piece of loop to the hook on the strap would work to solve this issue?
gigawatt
New Member
Thanks cavx! I also a agree with you on the hook and loop. Catching the tounge is annoying as well.
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
the hook/loop combo to hold the shoes in position is a good thing.
To be honest, when I got the v1s I stuck some hook/loop combos under the strap and buckle to hold them in place.
Put them on in the first week of having them, lol
They've lasted longer than the rubber on the sole (which I'm in the process of replacing, hence the unusual rubber in the pic - yellow rubber with a grid pattern on it is surprisingly hard to find so I just went with red instead and repainted the rubber bit on the side where the lights are in the RD and v2s and the yellow MAG on the back)
But yes, with the v2s, since the tongue is cloth, the hooks should have been where the loops are, and vice-versa, as it sometimes catches the tongue when putting them on. Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to have time to mod the tongue to extend and be a slightly different material which won't be so suceptible to getting caught on the hooks. I'll dig up my loop strips and give it a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
To be honest, when I got the v1s I stuck some hook/loop combos under the strap and buckle to hold them in place.
Put them on in the first week of having them, lol
They've lasted longer than the rubber on the sole (which I'm in the process of replacing, hence the unusual rubber in the pic - yellow rubber with a grid pattern on it is surprisingly hard to find so I just went with red instead and repainted the rubber bit on the side where the lights are in the RD and v2s and the yellow MAG on the back)
But yes, with the v2s, since the tongue is cloth, the hooks should have been where the loops are, and vice-versa, as it sometimes catches the tongue when putting them on. Hopefully next weekend I'll be able to have time to mod the tongue to extend and be a slightly different material which won't be so suceptible to getting caught on the hooks. I'll dig up my loop strips and give it a try tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
cavx
Master Member
How have the under soles held up? My white/black pair were OK for about the first 3 months then flogged out wearing them to theme parks and why I then added the clear.
- - - Updated - - -
So I am hoping adding the loop side to the strap will also prevent the pilling weave seen on the tongue.
DragonGalvy
Sr Member
Ok, you made me curious enough to dig up the velcro.
For anyone here who doesn't have the V2's, the strap has the hook part of the velcro glued to the inner surface where it connects to the loop part of the velcro which is attached to the grey material of the uppers. Then when you put them on and do them up, the hooks line up with the loops and it's all hidden.
Unfortunately just connecting some extra loop strip onto the hook part of the underside of the strap isn't going to solve the problem, I'll have to heat the strap to melt the glue the hook part is attached with, and take about half of it off. The remaining amount should still be enough to hold onto the loops which are sewn to the uppers, and then (hopefully) not catch on the tongue anymore when putting them on.
The perfect solution would be to just swap the positioning of the panel with hooks, and the panel with loops. But that will involve undoing the stitching on the loops and then redoing the stitching when replacing it with hooks (or, I suppose, gluing, if you're feeling lazy)
Since I'm going to extend /re-do the tongues with a different material, it doesn't concern me too much for my own pair, really.
Anyone else got a better suggestion?
(oops, almost forgot to add in - the under soles rubber remained together, but the grip was nearly all gone. Where I work has some areas of stainless steel floor which makes wearing shoes with no grip an...... adventure. They probly lasted somewhere between 6 months and a year I guess until I did something about it they were this one)
For anyone here who doesn't have the V2's, the strap has the hook part of the velcro glued to the inner surface where it connects to the loop part of the velcro which is attached to the grey material of the uppers. Then when you put them on and do them up, the hooks line up with the loops and it's all hidden.
Unfortunately just connecting some extra loop strip onto the hook part of the underside of the strap isn't going to solve the problem, I'll have to heat the strap to melt the glue the hook part is attached with, and take about half of it off. The remaining amount should still be enough to hold onto the loops which are sewn to the uppers, and then (hopefully) not catch on the tongue anymore when putting them on.
The perfect solution would be to just swap the positioning of the panel with hooks, and the panel with loops. But that will involve undoing the stitching on the loops and then redoing the stitching when replacing it with hooks (or, I suppose, gluing, if you're feeling lazy)
Since I'm going to extend /re-do the tongues with a different material, it doesn't concern me too much for my own pair, really.
Anyone else got a better suggestion?
(oops, almost forgot to add in - the under soles rubber remained together, but the grip was nearly all gone. Where I work has some areas of stainless steel floor which makes wearing shoes with no grip an...... adventure. They probly lasted somewhere between 6 months and a year I guess until I did something about it they were this one)
gigawatt
New Member
That would be sweet if it's possible. Looking forward to see how you do it!
cavx
Master Member
Do you really think it still needs hook/loop on both sides? I don't and the reason I even brought this up was because of how difficult the hook/loop made the pulling the strap tight to do up the shoes. It catches and does not slide. Without the hook/loop, the strap slides down when you walk. NIKE fixed their ankle buckle to the back of the shoe. I copied this with both my MP and V1 MAGs, but it didn't stop the strap from slipping down. I do think keeping it fixed in place on the outside is the key.
Mine were good until wearing them on bitumen in the theme parks. That just stripped the rubber away within 3 days.
badgers tuts
New Member
Is there anyone here who offers to do the mods for a price ? I have the who45 straps and just haven't had the bottle to change them and get them connected up. It would be great to get the electrics sorted out too
RLMcFly
Member
I think I am going to experiment with using some Seaglow on the soles of my beater pair.
Seaglow is a chemical product that reacts with UV light and can make yellowed shoe soles appear clear again. If and when I do it I will post pics. My first pair is all prepped I just need to solder a BUNCH of stuff and install it in the shoes...then I will be good to go. I hope to finish my first pair by 2013...not 2015!
Seaglow is a chemical product that reacts with UV light and can make yellowed shoe soles appear clear again. If and when I do it I will post pics. My first pair is all prepped I just need to solder a BUNCH of stuff and install it in the shoes...then I will be good to go. I hope to finish my first pair by 2013...not 2015!
airair
Sr Member
Just for anyone who may be interested. I have 2 fully modified pairs available in the junkyard. One is a bit cheaper as its been worn many times but still looks just as new.
The other is brand new.
Also just testing out my new custom uppers on my other v2s and will post some pics soon.
I plan to cast some new soles hopefully soon.
Just figuring out the appropriate
Casting materials to use!
The other is brand new.
Also just testing out my new custom uppers on my other v2s and will post some pics soon.
I plan to cast some new soles hopefully soon.
Just figuring out the appropriate
Casting materials to use!
airair
Sr Member
good stuff.
do you think adding seaglow to a new pair would actually protect the rubber from UV permanently?
i read that once you add seaglow, your shoes need to be in the sunlight every day otherwise the seaglow stops working?
Still I suppose, anything is better than nothing, especially since it seems both the midsole and clear soles don't have any UV protection in them.
RLMcFly
Member
I don't think it would protect them permanently from yellowing, I think that Seaglow would make the clear rubber outsole clear for a little while and would need to be reapplied if the rubber started to yellow again a year or two down the line. But, I am not a Seaglow expert and have yet to use it on a pair of my own shoes.
As for the rubber midsole, it won't work on anything but clear rubber. I recall JediFyfe saying that the midsole yellowed but I have only owned my V2's for a month so it's not nearly enough time to notice the grey rubber yellowing.
Although I have noticed I would like the clear outsole to be a little clearer, as the 2nd pair I got from Karen was quite cloudy. I don't want them icy blue like the RD Mags, just would like to experiment and see if SeaGlow would clear them up a little...
and as for a UV protection solution, I'm not sure, maybe some Armor All Leather Conditioner Wipes (or Spray Bottle) with UV protection would help protect them from UV damage, just don't get it on the fabric upper! I use Armor All Interior Cleaner wipes to clean off my sneakers (Nikes and Jordans) once I get home and get done wearing them, quick and convenient and then I put them away!
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RLMcFly
Member
Has anyone reinstalled and glued in the two plastic arc pieces back into the sole to fill the void before they installed their EL sheets in the sole? It seems like it may give the sole some added strength and stability, also protect the EL from potential water damage from the outside. I think if done you would need to cut a hole to accommodate the EL wire, but that could easily be Dremeled out.
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