NIKE MAG Knockoffs
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cavx
Master Member
Glad you like them. The only thing I would need to do different is to allow a bit more material on the seams. So I should be right to start shaving the leather
What happened?
Looking at Cloneprops cuff, both my wife and I think he did those by hand and why he was able to get the stitching so close the padding. Lucky vinyl is cheap and the set I did can be written off.
Despite being very thin, the leather is a ***** to sew. It takes so much effort to get the needle through and i've tried several needles of varying thicknesses.
Might have to try pleather or vinyl instead.
cavx
Master Member
:thumbsup Nice BTTF2 outfit there Jedifyfe :thumbsup
I really do like that jacket and think that I will need one to go with the bag and shoes now.
You can buy (and probably need) "leather needles". I've got a set of 4 for the sewing machine. They work really well on vinyl and leatherette as well.
So are you doing an all leather pair of MAGs too? The cuff is a tricky one. Maybe leatherette is the way to go on this part even on the leather MAGs I'll be starting on soon. I added a tongue to that carpet pair just to check that the 10" length I included on the pattern is OK, and it seems to be all good.
What did you end up using for a liner? Because whilst the collar section can be made one piece, padded and added later, I want to line the toe section before I begin to stitch the leather uppers. I would like to glue that to the uppers first, I think...
I really do like that jacket and think that I will need one to go with the bag and shoes now.
You can buy (and probably need) "leather needles". I've got a set of 4 for the sewing machine. They work really well on vinyl and leatherette as well.
So are you doing an all leather pair of MAGs too? The cuff is a tricky one. Maybe leatherette is the way to go on this part even on the leather MAGs I'll be starting on soon. I added a tongue to that carpet pair just to check that the 10" length I included on the pattern is OK, and it seems to be all good.
What did you end up using for a liner? Because whilst the collar section can be made one piece, padded and added later, I want to line the toe section before I begin to stitch the leather uppers. I would like to glue that to the uppers first, I think...
cavx
Master Member
Then you are best going with leatherette then including the tongue and strap so it all matches.
cavx
Master Member
How much more you got to do?
I need to mask up my clear soles, repaint the mid-soles grey, then add the splat. I am not worried about this at the time until I complete the new uppers.
airair
Sr Member
you know for the back pieces of the template, since its curved, whats the best way to join them if using craft foam?
to just hot glue it and then stitch them, or glue the 2 pieces to some fabric, and then stitch through them?
currently, my uppers template is just 2 pieces. 1 piece for the entire back of the heel, and then 1 piece for the front.
but obviously, then it looks too straight from the side profile. i think it has to be split into 2 to get the slightly leaning back look to it.
to just hot glue it and then stitch them, or glue the 2 pieces to some fabric, and then stitch through them?
currently, my uppers template is just 2 pieces. 1 piece for the entire back of the heel, and then 1 piece for the front.
but obviously, then it looks too straight from the side profile. i think it has to be split into 2 to get the slightly leaning back look to it.
cavx
Master Member
When I did my foam forms, they were glued with super glue. I did run some masking tape inside the seam first, then glued it in small sections like one would do with a PEP (I guess). The glue bonded the foam really well and combined with the masking tape, made a very strong seam.
If sewing the foam, be sure to add a small seam on the edge to allow the foam to be sewn and folded for the seam.
Making the back out of one piece would make the back very cylindrical. To get the curved shape, you need to use this template.
For your size 11s, I do believe you need to draw your grid at 27.5mm (round to 30mm would be fine because that would give the bit of extra you need for the seams).
This pattern can be scaled in SketchUp if you run that program and you will need to email me to get the file. If not, just draw a grid (or buy grid paper) and scale it manually. The issue I have with SU here is that when I make a JPEG like this, I am restricted to the size of the screen of the laptop its rez. Maybe connecting to the HT projector may allow the file size to be increased, not sure.
If you print this out, you may find a photocopy centre that can blow it up for you saving you time on drawing. What I have found works best for me is to laminate the parts and cut them out which then gives me a reusable pattern that can be flipped over to make both left and right shoes.
cavx
Master Member
Looks like I can help anyone anyone needing these patterns scaled and to ANY size.
On the left is US10 and on the right is US7.
Using both a tape measure and an actual part, I scaled a apart of the image on screen to be the same size. This meant I could only see a portion of the pattern. I then exported the image as a JPEG. I had to make 6 images to cover the entire pattern which is over 600mm wide at full size or 1:1. I then opened two Paint windows and cut and pasted and stitched each pattern portion back together using the grid as a reference.
Once I had a complete 1:1 of my Size US10, then used the re-size tool to scale the whole image. I switched to CM as well to help me gauge the size. So whilst the image above has been shrunk to fit here, I do now have 1:1 for US 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 and guess I can make any size from the original.
On the left is US10 and on the right is US7.
Using both a tape measure and an actual part, I scaled a apart of the image on screen to be the same size. This meant I could only see a portion of the pattern. I then exported the image as a JPEG. I had to make 6 images to cover the entire pattern which is over 600mm wide at full size or 1:1. I then opened two Paint windows and cut and pasted and stitched each pattern portion back together using the grid as a reference.
Once I had a complete 1:1 of my Size US10, then used the re-size tool to scale the whole image. I switched to CM as well to help me gauge the size. So whilst the image above has been shrunk to fit here, I do now have 1:1 for US 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 and 12 and guess I can make any size from the original.
airair
Sr Member
great stuff
do you have the one for US Size 11?
mine are looking too cylindrical, so this should be a great improvement.
also, you know when it comes to the time for glueing the entire uppers back to the midsole, i was thinking about whether to make a shoe last?
it might make it easier then to shape the fabric around the foot shape and then glue it properly to the midsole.
just thinking of whether i could use foam or something hard.
im even tempted of using some alginate to make a mould of my foot and then pouring some plaster of paris into it for a hard shoe last.
do you have the one for US Size 11?
mine are looking too cylindrical, so this should be a great improvement.
also, you know when it comes to the time for glueing the entire uppers back to the midsole, i was thinking about whether to make a shoe last?
it might make it easier then to shape the fabric around the foot shape and then glue it properly to the midsole.
just thinking of whether i could use foam or something hard.
im even tempted of using some alginate to make a mould of my foot and then pouring some plaster of paris into it for a hard shoe last.
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cavx
Master Member
Yes I have expanded the size range from US6 (who even has feet that small anyway?) to a whopping US15!
You won't need a last. Once you cut and glue the foam, the shoe will take shape and hold that. The trick is knowing what to stitch and what to glue and fold. When it comes time to gluing the uppers to the mid-sole, I will suggest that you will need a product like Shoe Goo and start at one end working to the other. Take your time as well.
cavx
Master Member
If you are planning on electronics, I'd be taking every precaution possible to ensure that they don't get water damaged.
airair
Sr Member
check these out someone custom painted their expensive mags.
they must have some balls! i wouldn't dare touch them if id paid so much for them!
Nike MAG Custom by Mache | NiceKicks.com
they must have some balls! i wouldn't dare touch them if id paid so much for them!
Nike MAG Custom by Mache | NiceKicks.com
