NIKE MAG Knockoffs
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airair
Sr Member
whats the procedure on stitching the new uppers?
if trying to follow the 2011 release, im finding it difficult to work out how its all stitched together, especially the upper white piece. you can't see if its been glued or stitched?
if anyone has any tips, feel free to share.
if trying to follow the 2011 release, im finding it difficult to work out how its all stitched together, especially the upper white piece. you can't see if its been glued or stitched?
if anyone has any tips, feel free to share.
cavx
Master Member
I am thinking that the cuff can be stitched to the inner of the collar, however I want to make my uppers first to see how they would hold their shape. Mine have lost some of that true shape but still look OK.
I am probably ready to make the cuff and will probably just glue it in place later.
Here are some tips I'd like to share:
1. plan ahead!
2. allow a slight oversize when you make the cutouts for sewing.
3. do the seams on the lace section first [what a job I had doing those after stitching the uppers together]
4. be good to your mum
especially if she is helping. I am doing this one pretty much alone. My wife is volunteering information only (and the use of her sewing machine ) and I have had to work this out as I go. As this is the first time I've ever done anything like this, I don't I'm doing too bad.
I got around to painting and applying the logos to my wearable MAG's.
And a little video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrK-YZElfx0&feature=youtu.be
And a little video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrK-YZElfx0&feature=youtu.be
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cavx
Master Member
Just a heads up for anyone wanting to use the pattern I did [feel free to do so] as I have revised the pattern slightly after making a new pair of uppers tonight. Basically, I've just squared off the very top round part at the back of each side of the collar to that when they join, they don't have a little dip that should not be there.
The reason for his mod was because it annoyed me tonight when assembling this new pair of uppers.
This is just one of those EVA yoga mats, but how cool is that pattern? I wonder if that could be cast, then used to make the waffle on the sides?
The reason for his mod was because it annoyed me tonight when assembling this new pair of uppers.
This is just one of those EVA yoga mats, but how cool is that pattern? I wonder if that could be cast, then used to make the waffle on the sides?
I made this one. Jedifyfe's Nike Mag Conversion - YouTube
I'll be making another one with me wearing them soon.
cavx
Master Member
NICE!
Jedifyfe, given you are pretty much the authority on these shoes, is there any feedback you would like give on the patterns I've created (and am sharing) so others can make their own shoes?
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cloneprops
Well-Known Member
Great job guys!!
About mods.....I see yesterday a impressive mod, is not about mags,but is so interesting for gamers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_m3-xw_BOwo&sns=em
About mods.....I see yesterday a impressive mod, is not about mags,but is so interesting for gamers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_m3-xw_BOwo&sns=em
cavx
Master Member
I love how violent the reentry and departure effects on the time-jump are.
Speaking of sculpting and casting, i'm pretty much now moving on to the idea of making a completely original mid-sole. out-sole and heel cup.
I can't imagine it would be anywhere near as cool as Cloneprops stuff but I might as well try.
I think my clear sole looks okay but the more I look at it the less satisfied I am.
I can't imagine it would be anywhere near as cool as Cloneprops stuff but I might as well try.
I think my clear sole looks okay but the more I look at it the less satisfied I am.
cavx
Master Member
Awesome! Let the $pending begin.
Do or do not. There is no try.
I will suggest urethane foam for the mid-sole and clear elastomer for the outer-sole. You can specify shore hardness for each and have a nice soft mid and harder outer sole.
Molds typically are made from silicone.
I need to re-think these uppers as they are truly giving me the sh1ts right now.
I thought "Only a SITH deals in absolutes".:behave
When you say "specify", are you referring to a specific service that provides this kind of material and work?
I've been looking at silicone molds but the only problem is the sculpting of the soles. If I remember correctly, Cloneprops had a 3D model of his parts made up first and then made molds from these. I've never attempted 3D modeling and i'm unsure of the cost. The only thing I could do is have someone make the CAD files for me for a fee or sculpt all the parts out of another material by hand and then mold those.
And your uppers are already looking great, a small rethink can only get better.
airair
Sr Member
i found that the rtv silicone method is very expensive. to do a whole mid sole would easily take more than 1kg or more of rtv just for that.
thats why i was thinking of changing to plaster of paris now, its much cheaper, although im not sure if its good for curved pieces like the heel cup.
ive already ****** up once with rtv, wasting a whole kg of it.:confused
thats why i was thinking of changing to plaster of paris now, its much cheaper, although im not sure if its good for curved pieces like the heel cup.
ive already ****** up once with rtv, wasting a whole kg of it.:confused
cavx
Master Member
I thought we learned that they are NOT coming out now.
Yes, you can specify what shore hardness you want. I went OC80A for my clear soles.
cavx
Master Member
Yeah I was absolutely going to ditch them last night :lol
As mentioned, once you find a supplier (I used ERA products) you will be able to inspect samples of the cured product and feel the hardness. I chose OC80A based on the feel of the sample for the outer-sole. For a mid sole, I would suggest OC25A.
I am working on a 3D model for the mid-soles. Just $$$ that I don't want to spend if I don't have to.
The easiest way to make these is:
1. Have a template cut from at least 3 layers 16mm MDF. If you wanted the recessed parts for the outer-sole, then you laser cut a 2nd profile using 3mm MDF and glue that in place to create a new 3D shape. At this stage, you would also be able to add the recesses for the side parts.
2. Invert the mid-sole and then raise it up by at least 40mm and Vac Form the shape. This works because the widest part is the top (which is inverted).
3. You then trim the top side into shape.
4. Lay the original MDF part into the base and using bondo, create the arch and build up the wall.
Presto! You now have a solid flat mid-sole that you can cast.
