New Captain America Project WIP (pic heavy)

This is beautiful looking. Good lord I wish I knew how to sew like this. (when I was growing up... being a guy seamstress would have gotten me beaten up every other day or so... now that I'm older... it would have been soooooo worth it. lol )

Thanks! You should check out this thread (if you haven't already): http://www.therpf.com/f24/im-bro-i-sew-who-else-me-156369/

There's tons of guys on there at all levels sharing tips and projects.
 
OK, so it's a really short update today. I got the first test done on the chest stripes, there's some work to be done there. Tomorrow is a full studio day, so there will be some new stuff coming soon. In the meantime, picking up where we left off last time...

Since this was originally just drawn freehand, the next step on the stripes was to even up all the angles and straighten all the lines. I cut up the paper copy and transferred it some pattern paper and ruled all the lines out.
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Then the entire piece was cut from the silver vinyl. I added the stripes to the silver piece and then edged it all the way around with blue Cordura.
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This is the first test run on this piece. I'm not crazy about it. I think the border around the edges is much too large and distracting. I need to either make that edging about 1/2 - 1/4 that size or I need to cut the entire blue area as one piece and inset the silver into it (the way the shoulders are done). Another version to come...

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Update time on the stripes - here we go!

After some deliberation, I decided to cut the entire stripe 'patch' from the Cordura and inset the stripes. I traced the piece out on the back (coated) side with silver sharpie and, leaving a large amount of space on the outside (making it much easier to handle), I cut out the stripe areas and the stripes and inset them one at a time. For a hint at the nerve-searing scale I was working with, the first pic is taken next to a sharpie.
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The second image above is the bottom stripe from the back showing how the blue was cut to the corners through the seam allowance and the angles were sewn. When doing this kind of angle work (which I do quite often), it's very helpful if you can trace the stitching lines onto the pieces. In the first image above, you can see the lines on the blue and the stripe where the corners and the finished lines should match up. This way you can carefully keep an eye on all of your points and lines as you're constructing the piece.
When you don't have the option of tracing out the lines or using chalk or markers to mark dots on the fabric, tailors' tacks are invaluable. If you're not familiar with that term, a tailors' tack is a single hand stitch that marks a point on the fabric as a guide - then, you just take the thread out when you're done. Here's a pic to illustrate:
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With the three stripe pieces inset into the blue, I then needed to finish the edges. I trimmed all the silver vinyl to an even 1/4" around the edges and trimmed it across the internal stripe areas so it would lay flush and not overlap. Then, since I didn't want any other stitching to show on these pieces, I turned to every costumers' most trusted friend and the single item that no shop, whatever the size or budget, can function without.
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Once the edges were glued and trimmed, I added the magnets. These are neodymium or 'rare earth' magnets and are wicked strong. I used Loctite to secure them to the back of the 'patch'. The entire patch will be finished with Cordura contact cemented down to both finish the piece and also to make sure the magnets don't pop off the back.
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I lined up the 'patch' to the chest, pinned it on and turned it over so that I could match the magnets on the inside of the jacket. Here are a couple of images of the new & improved stripes on the chest. This version looks much more sleek and 'seamless' and matches the look of the shoulders much better than the first version. Yay progress!
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Last week, I decided to do a test run of the pieces together to see how they moved and fit together. Overall, they fit together really well, move really well and are quite comfortable. However, I noticed that, if he tries to pose in certain ways (really extreme poses, like the shield-over-the-head), the mesh 'tank' top on the torso will show. Bad. So, I'm going to revamp this area with the blue spandex and make it more of a 't-shirt' fit than a 'tank'. That way, it will all blend together no matter how he moves or which torso he's wearing.
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That will be the next step as well as finishing the pants. After that, it's all about accessories! Stay tuned...

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Update time! It was all about pants today...

I'll address the upper part of both torsos at the same time. In the meantime, I wanted to get the pants complete. Originally, the client just wanted basic BDU pants to go with the uniform, so I began putting them together.
pants-1.jpg

Though they looked fine, they just seemed too plain to go with the rest of the suit. So, I wanted to give them a little detail with the jumbo spandex to pull everything together. With the pants already cut and partially assembled, I decided to just add in some simple striping detail. To do this, I just needed to cut the pieces apart and create the striping. Since the front details were just straight lines down the front, I'm going to detail the back because it's more interesting.
pants-2.jpg


The first step is to draw out the cutting lines on the back side of the piece. The piece is then cut apart and the edge is traced on pattern paper. The trick here is that I always use a 1/2" seam allowance - so, I can just create a 2" inset based on the cut edge of my piece and, when sewn in, it will create a 1" stripe detail. No fuss, no muss.
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When the cut edge is traced, simply follow the line 1" on either side. This creates the stripe detail and the seam allowance needed. In the above image, the line in the center of the paper piece is the cut edge of the Cordura piece next to it. By extending that line equally 1" on either side, I have a piece that will fit perfectly into the Cordura pieces without having to cut or measure them any further. This is what the piece looks like after being sewn in and finished.
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The second image above shows the pants laid out flat so you can compare the detail version to the version I started with. Here are the pants with the inseam done and the crotch sewn up (and the flaps added to the side pockets). Next are the waistband and the snaps on all the pocket flaps.
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I put some of the pieces together to get an idea of the whole thing so far with the pants.
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Finishing on the torso pieces and pants and the accessories to go. We're rounding third and headed home...

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Getting great tips here. Thank you. Some brilliant work being done as well. Well done.

Thanks! Glad you're getting some good info from this. I really think that one of the best things about this forum is the fact that everyone is so willing to share all their tips and techniques. There's as many ways to make something as there are people who make it, and I really like seeing how everyone approaches a challenge and the creative ways they bring these projects to life.

I shall be watching your career with great interest

Thanks! You've got some pretty extensive Cap experience under your belt, so I'll take the awesome compliment. :)

Let me know when you start taking commission jobs for your work.

Thanks raven! I've taken commissions for years. For more info, you can check out www.smpdesigns.com.
 
New stuff!

I finished the torsos - completed the variant 'stealth' version and revamped the 'classic' version with the new spandex top. The blue upper portion of the torsos will now ensure that the costume all blends together and there are no gaps in the suit no matter the pose.
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With that complete, I moved on to the harness. I worked up a basic paper template for the harness earlier and continued on to refine that pattern. The upper part of the harness has a larger base strap, so began with that based on my template. I'm using an upholstery vinyl for these pieces. I wanted there to be a good amount of body to the upper harness, so I backed this under strap with headliner foam.
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The actual strap was then cut out, the edges folded under and the strap was sewn to the base with the hardware included. Here's a tip when doing this kind of piece - Super 77 is your friend. I gave the headliner a light spray to tack it down before sewing the edges of the under strap and I also sprayed the back sides of the top straps so that I could fold over the edges and have them tacked down while sewing them. In small doses, it's a life saver to keep things in place so they don't slip and shift while you're working with them.
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The lower straps (that go under the arms) were next. It just so happened that the same pattern for the upper straps worked for the lower - good curve and size - so I just cut another set. For these, I wanted extra thickness and I wanted the backs to be finished. So, I cut one set the finished size and (you guessed it) Super 77'd them down and cut the outer strap with an allowance. I then folded the allowance over, stitched it down and trimmed the excess.
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The next step was to put the harness pieces together and set them on the suit (on the form) and begin the template for the back buckle. I worked it up in paper pinned to the form and then refined it in poster board for a good, traceable pattern. More on that to come.
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While on an accessory role, I decided to go ahead and try to knock out part of the belt. The main pieces are made using the same technique as the lower harness straps above.
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And I had to put it all together so far...
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Stay tuned...

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Incredible work mate! By the way... How much would you charge for a screen accurate The First Avenger suit? I'm 6' dead.
 
WOW!, Subscribed! Love your seamstress skills man! Words can't describe how taken away I am by your work. Thanks so much for sharing.... YOU HAVE ANOTHER FAN!
 
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