New 10th Doctor Sonic Screwdriver Universal Remote

Well, to do that, I'd have to disconnect the wires, strip the yellow shrink off of them, re-wrap the white and pink wire in red shrink, and then reconnect the wires. It wouldn't really be that hard. But, I know some people get a little daunted at having to do any electronics modification and so I wanted to show what could be done without having to touch the electronics at all.
 
Well, to do that, I'd have to disconnect the wires, strip the yellow shrink off of them, re-wrap the white and pink wire in red shrink, and then reconnect the wires. It wouldn't really be that hard. But, I know some people get a little daunted at having to do any electronics modification and so I wanted to show what could be done without having to touch the electronics at all.

Fair enough! I remember my first time with a soldering iron. Not pretty. But then I managed to fix my CO 10th Doctor's sonic after the wires separated from the board during a mod and I was so proud of myself! I was just surprised that you didn't switch out the wire colors since you tend to go all out on these things.

Out of curiosity, is that paint job incorporating the original crackle texture of the TWC prop or did you do a custom crackle paint job over the original body (perhaps after sanding)?
 
Fair enough! I remember my first time with a soldering iron. Not pretty. But then I managed to fix my CO 10th Doctor's sonic after the wires separated from the board during a mod and I was so proud of myself! I was just surprised that you didn't switch out the wire colors since you tend to go all out on these things.

Out of curiosity, is that paint job incorporating the original crackle texture of the TWC prop or did you do a custom crackle paint job over the original body (perhaps after sanding)?
the body is a new metal body with also a new bottom piece with the deeper indent, it is a plastikote 2 step crackle he used to paint, with colony cream top coat and I think gold base coat
 
the body is a new metal body with also a new bottom piece with the deeper indent, it is a plastikote 2 step crackle he used to paint, with colony cream top coat and I think gold base coat


All that is true. As to the wires. I may do that in the future, as well as strip the anodizing from the sonic head, and add the grub screws. But I wanted to show people what could be done with one of my sonic bodies for a quick and easy mod.
 
All that is true. As to the wires. I may do that in the future, as well as strip the anodizing from the sonic head, and add the grub screws. But I wanted to show people what could be done with one of my sonic bodies for a quick and easy mod.

I obviously missed some posts in the middle there, lol. Well if I recall, you were working on a metal replacement body for the CO 10th sonic, weren't you? I guess this endeavor is more sensible - adding a fraction of the original remote prop price to the cost of the mod versus a substantial addition to the toy prop.
 
New problem I found. The emitter bulb on mine actually spins, it feels like if I mess with it a lot it will come off, anybody else have that?

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk
i used to have that, it is secure though, ive opened it and the blue tip is very secure and definately wont come off unless you force it off, just try and fit a bit of superglue in
 
i have discovered an unknown mode for the sonic, when off (and no lock code is engaged) hold the button to turn it on and then keep holding until it says "entering test mode" then let go. it will make a bloop and click noise and go into test programming mode. it works like programming mode with its own 3 memory banks. then one button press will take you to test control. again it is like control mode with its own memory bank. then one press of the slider button will take you to FX test. it will play all sounds that are not unlocked in FX mode, such as the alarm noise or the lock sound and other voice prompts.
also a cool trick i found with progamming mode is that if you accidentally do the wrong gesture, you can press the slider button ONCE and it will turn off the light and let you put in another gesture

hope this helps
 
Last edited:
WARNING!
although this exists, after you put in a code into the test memory banks, it will immediately go into control test and after you push the slider button it will erase ALL MEMORY BANKS and go into FX test. there is a way around this, when you have programmed the code into test mode, hold the button to turn it off. this will preserve the code you have programmed and when you go into test mode it will be there.

also, test isn't supposed to be for control. if you program a code, it will send that code no matter what gesture you make or which memory bank you are in.
 
Last edited:
Does anyone know if you can sand and repaint the TWC sonic bodies to look like the one used in the 50th?

No reason why not. It's all a matter of finding the right paint. Though I recommend sanding the body a fair ways to give the slider a bit of clearance.
 
Have you done this?

In way. I have painted a few TWC sonic bodies to look like the 9th Doctor's sonic. I'd eventually like to do a 50th anniversary version, but finding the right paints for that particular version is proving difficult.
 
So in the show the wire column is pretty frosted. Then I started thinking that since the emitter cage can desperate from that clear column and it does have a hole in the center of the column. Couldnt you get near to that look in the show by maybe sanding the inside a bit? That way the outside would still be fine but it would seem frosted like in the show right?
 
Back
Top