Nerf Scout Trooper Blaster Repaint

Meanwhile I'm considering replacing the opaque tip with a clear one. :lol: As well as doing a multi-sheen finish to give a little contrast without violating the all-black colorscheme.

And that is the type of frustration I often get when trying to figure out the best way to approach painting a blaster replica. Because you could base your paint scheme off the way they do hero props. If the base weapon is a real weapon, the body is going to be something like gun metal or blue steel. And then the scope. Did they really want to use a real scope? However since these props were used and most likely made in the US and did not have access to the gun items they leased back in the UK, did they simply made/or had a cast of a real scope and use that as their master for the scopes on the blaster? If they used a real scope, they would be another shade of black. And if they had not cast the scope mount part, that would be a another black shade. So you could argue that scout blaster could have a gunmetal black body, satin black scope, and a gloss scope mount as well as the clear tip of the scope.

But then... I start thinking, The only reason a hero prop like an E-11 blaster has various tones is because the production does not own the parts and therefore must deal with the variations. After all, they won't be picked up on screen. Besides, when they replicate the stunt weapons, those tend to get painted in a mono color scheme.

But then... I start thinking, well maybe the prop department painted the stunt weapons in a mono color scheme because they knew that such color details would not really be seen and it was easier and quicker for production reasons, And maybe they really wanted the stunt prop to replicate the various tones of the hero prop.

But then...

You see how I tend to get myself in a circle with this stuff?
 
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The flaw in your solution is assuming I have narrowed it down to only two options. :(

Buy six and do it six ways?

Thumb triggers do work, they just don't offer any real advantage on real-world weapons. For something like a TOS Phaser-1 or a TNG era phaser, the form factor lends itself to thumb triggers. Those, of course, also have the advantage of not having recoil - if a Phaser-1 had even a little bit of recoil it would be a proper beast to hold onto!

TOS Phaser-2s have normal index-finger triggers... which are completely exposed and also accidents waiting to happen. Not understanding how weapons actually work certainly isn't limited to Star Wars!

And sure, Star Wars is fantasy. There's all sorts of "physics doesn't work that way" that I ignore when enjoying Star Wars. But... well, I can't ignore how hands work. Accepting that lefties are just screwed and need to learn to shoot right-handed works, but that "button" is just way too exposed, given where the scout troopers store the weapon, for me to accept it as the trigger. For me, the easiest path to a proper suspension of disbelief is to assume the greeblie is something else, a charging port maybe, and that the trigger is in the grip just like every other blaster. But that's just me, I'm not trying to tell anyone they're wrong if they faithfully copy the triggerless prop. If my posts have seemed otherwise, I've sent the wrong signal.
 
I noticed the scope had threading on the inside as if they had designed it with additional detail part but omitted it for the final product.

This would be a a great way to add some scope detailing (the step down eyepiece and a reticle). Anyone want to attempt a 3D file that would screw in place?

390BF8EB-7905-409F-9202-F936D007AEE7.jpeg
 
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I ordered mine off Amazon. I paid a little more, but I got it in two days with free shipping. I went back to order another one and they're out of stock on Amazon... but there are buying options from the scalpers. I won't pay that!! If I bump into one at a reasonable price I'll buy another, if not one will have to do!
 
Does anyone also think the scope mount is a cast too? It looks like the corners have chipped off and it also appears to be painted the same color as the rest of the blaster. Usually when a real scope mount is used it remains the original color and slightly off in color from the main blaster body. However it looks as if they used black screws because they look sharp in detail and a slightly different shade of black than everything else. Also it appears that the very tip of the muzzle is a separate cast piece or else it would have a seam running across it like the piece behind it. Anyone else agree?

So it looks like there are four separate cast pieces, body, scope, muzzle tip,and scope mount. Then a metal guard with screws and screws for the scope mount. Yay or nay?
I thought this was an interesting photo, and might answer your first question if it hasn't been answered already:

og0WQ89.jpg


1. The section of the scope mount that I would refer to as a "cradle" appears to be molded together with the scope housing/main body; as you can see, there is no obvious gap, and I can't imagine the prop department taking the time after each and every casting to fill a space that no one in the audience will ever see. The actual real-world scope might be cast that way, I'm not overly familiar with it.

2. The clamp/retainer does appear to be separate from the scope housing/main body. It looks as if it's held in place with screws top and bottom, and the top screw does appear to go all the way through into the main body of the blaster, but it and the screws could have all been glued into position for added strength, or glued and screwed in, or...

By the way, looking at these photos was anyone else reminded of the wooden gun that John Dillinger used to escape from Lake County Crown Point jail in 1934?

G75OYy3.jpg


:cool:
 

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