My Ultimate weathered ANH Han Blaster - MR Elite Edition!

[cking]

Hi everyone,

Recently, I was lucky enough to become the new owner of Guy Cowen's excellently weathered MR Elite Edition ANH Han Solo Blaster.
Guy did a fantastic job weathering the Mauser, grips and scope but I wanted to upgrade the weathering on the horizontal scope bracket and thumbscrews so that they accurately matched the photos in Star Wars Chronicles book. After several hours cleaning up and re-sizing a scan of the photo, I prepared a suitable image that could be printed out onto water slide decal sheets. Today, I successfully applied the decals onto the stripped bracket and thumbscrews and I was absolutely thrilled with the results. Check it out!

 

[cking]

Here's a close-up photo of the bracket.
The black anodized finished was rubbed down from the bracket until the aluminum was revealed. My water slide decals only have the black parts on them so when they are printed out onto transparent decal sheets, you can actually see the real aluminum bracket exposed!

 

[OldKen]

:eek

Very cool!

 

[Boba Debt]

That's some nice work and very innovative, too bad MR didn't think of it.

Having worked for you I have some experience with exactly how demanding you can be when it comes to the details

and this is probably the closest your going to get to Han ANH Blaster Perfection.

 

[Ham Solo]

:love

 

[mgoob]

Novel approach to weathering; get's it just right.

What chemical did you use to remove the anodizing?

 

[cking]

Thanks guys! Glad you like it.

Mike - I didn't use any chemicals, I just used sandpaper and elbow grease!

Cheers,

Chris

Novel approach to weathering; get's it just right.

What chemical did you use to remove the anodizing?

 

[superjedi]

Brilliant!! So your decals were sort of like "negative weathering?"
If I understand you right, you sanded the parts down to bare metal, then put the black back on using the decals? The results are fantastic!

 

[PHArchivist]

Where were you when I needed you!? I ust finished weathering my aluminum bracket yestereday! But I went the traditional method of painting it first, then removing the paint...

Well done!

 

[Scapey]

What a fantastic idea!
Looks excellent, too.

 

[Dann]

Wow.

 

[kurtyboy]

What a genius! :thumbsup

Any chance of sharing the decal images, please? :$

How does one produce these water slide decals?

 

[cking]

Thanks guys!

I may make some decal sheets available, but before I do - I want to check the durability of them. I don't want them to peel off the Blaster after a couple of days. The instructions that came with the waterslide decal sheets stated that a clear coat should be used to seal them down. I've ordered some model making satin clear coat and will be spraying the parts in the next few days.
Just for fun - here's a comparison with the real deal!

 

[vader71]

Awsome work Chris! Thats really impressive:cool

 

[DL 44 Blaster]

The results are stellar!! Having an MR Han EE on its way to me now, I plan on weathering also. If you make these available after your testing I'd be interested.

My only concern is the enamel mixing with the decal might prove disastrous as I've had it happen to me in years gone by. Future floor wax (liquid acrylic) would be safer.

Steve

 

[cking]

Steve,

I'm concerned about that too, so I'll be testing it out on a spare decal that I've applied to a piece of aluminum sheet. I'm not going to spray over the actual decals on my blaster until I know which is the safest clear coat to use.

Cheers,

Chris

 

[cking]

Hey guys,

I think it would be much easier if I supply the photoshop .tif file so that anyone who wants it can source their own waterslide decal sheets and print the decals out on any laser or inkjet printer (you have to buy the paper specifically for laser or inkjet printers). This would save on shipping etc.

The decals have to be printed out from Photoshop because the background (white areas) need to be switched off so that when the decals are printed out, the white areas become transparent.

If anyone would like the file, just send me a PM or email:
chris.king2@blueyonder.co.uk

Thanks!

Chris

 

[OdiWan72]

WOW, VERY innvovative way of weathering and the results are VERY good as well :thumbsup

BTW: Many waterslide decal papers can be permanently fixed to the surface by heating up and "baking" them. Check the instruction that came with your decal paper, maybe you won´t have to use any kind of clearcoat or something.

One question...the decal papers I know of have a pretty shiny surface, while the scope bracket itself seem to be matte or satin. Is this a problem on your bracket?

Email sent Chris!

Thanks, Markus

 

[cking]

Markus,

The instructions that came with my decal sheets specify that a clear coat should be used to seal them onto the surface.

The paper was quite shiny, but when the black ink was printed onto it, it became almost perfect. I'm still going to put a satin clear coat over it though.

Chris

WOW, VERY innvovative way of weathering and the results are VERY good as well :thumbsup

BTW: Many waterslide decal papers can be permanently fixed to the surface by heating up and "baking" them. Check the instruction that came with your decal paper, maybe you won´t have to use any kind of clearcoat or something.

One question...the decal papers I know of have a pretty shiny surface, while the scope bracket itself seem to be matte or satin. Is this a problem on your bracket?

Email sent Chris!

Thanks, Markus

 

[JOATRASH FX]

Keep in mind that a satin coat will dull the metal (which may in fact be beneficial to the weathering, but worth keeping in mind). Also, a satin coat will not be as strong as a regular clear. If you've got an airbrush, I would suggest using a two-part automotive clear (with hardener). Especially if you plan on handling it a lot.

Waterslide decals are great for all kinds of prop detailing. I've used them too sometimes, though not for weathering. For one, I did the stripes on my Luke ROTJ activation box with them.

The only "downer" is that you have a film of clear plastic over the see-through parts. I guess a way to get 'round that would be to use printed rub-down transfers, like a lot of the Ghostbusters builders do. That way you would get the edges that real paint creates.

I'm still going to put a satin clear coat over it though.

Chris