HarlockFan
New Member
That is what I thought. Is the safety functional? Not that it just moves, but does it actually function? I am still super happy with Todd’s blaster.
Todd’s Costume DL-44 ANH blaster
- Thread starter HarlockFan
- Start date
Does it? Mine only has the bolt sliding function, the hammer only has a spring to keep it up right, my safety would flop if I didn't put a piece of tape behind it, and the trigger has a spring to squeeze and nothing more. Nothing interacts with one another. I always wanted this steel kit to be able to cock the hammer and "fire" like the Denix could.
I swear mine fires and operates like my real 1912 Mauser
HarlockFan
New Member
Is the sear missing on Poopa’s replica? I bet Field Marshall will take care of you and send you a sear or any other parts you need. My safety doesn’t flop around at all after sliding in the washer. Still not a lot of resistance though but I am completely happy with it. Me moving it around trying to show it stays in place.
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You may be misremembering. Unless you got a very special one-off, I don't believe any of his kits, steel or otherwise, could function like that.
I don't believe anything was missing, I think it was just a tolerances on the machining. My little piece of tape holds well enough. I just wish I could play with it like I could with the Denix.
My kit was a first-gen kit, and his trigger was nothing more than a spring on a hinge then. Has he changed it to where you can actually cock the hammer and release it with the trigger?
I'm pretty sure. I don't have it in front of me, but I feel like I swapped out the included hammer spring for a slightly more robust one, so that when the trigger was pulled the hammer would fall with a little more force.
This was 2-3 years ago. Something like that.
This was 2-3 years ago. Something like that.
Apologies if this comes too late, but at least on the steel C96 that I built (which was also a first gen FM), the spring is what would interface between the trigger itself and a lever. Once the trigger is pulled that would push up on the lever, which in turn has a small tab that normally locks the hammer in place when it is pulled back. Once the lever is engaged however, that little tab is lifted up enough for the hammer to dry fire, as there is a second spring inside the main housing that applies backward pressure to it.
I did have to modify a few of the parts to get things working smoothly on mine, so it's at least possible that yours just needs a bit more fussing with. If you'd like I can give you a step by step breakdown of what all I tweaked on mine to get it working smoothly, though it's mostly just a lot of careful filing (like on the trigger).
Can you? All my kit had was just a spring and a trigger, and a small divot where the spring would seat. There isn't a mechanism to lock the hammer or anything. It was literally a spring sitting in a small notch that pushed against the rear of my trigger. Did I just get a super-rare early first gen kit without dry firing capability?
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