My P1 Themed Predator Costume with Electronics and Sounds. (Pic Heavy)

ale84iac said:
Hi Moe, ksj

I'm really struggling with one unexpected issue...I hope you have some idea :(

Basically I have Adafruit in the gauntlet and everything always worked fine, I was able to play sounds via buttons in the gauntlet and so on.

At that time power for Adafruit was coming to micro USB port, ground from Arduino GND pin and everything worked without any issues (see video below)

Then I assembled everything via wiring and basically buttons are not working anymore...

This is what I have now in the gauntlet (exactly the same as per video above, no changes) except the battery pack which is providing power instead of micro USB

View attachment 1739546

and of course ground is coming from Arduino via RJ45 (from Arduino to the board, from the board to RJ45 (both Gauntlet and Head)
Click to expand...

The main difference I see is that your buttons look like they are sharing ground with power coming in (picture is not showing all wiring).

Mine is isolated from the power coming in kind of like what adafruit did.
1694699237930.png


I also grounded the GND pin next to ACT in the corner where you have it by itself not directly grounded to the buttons.

My money is on if you isolate ground and power from the rest of the buttons grounds like adafruit did, you may get better results.

Maybe also gheck the voltage you are getting at the Vin/Gnd next to the USB.
 
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MoeSizzlac said:
The main difference I see is that your buttons look like they are sharing ground with power coming in (picture is not showing all wiring).

Mine is isolated from the power coming in kind of like what adafruit did.
View attachment 1739629

I also grounded the GND pin next to ACT in the corner where you have it by itself not directly grounded to the buttons.

My money is on if you isolate ground and power from the rest of the buttons grounds like adafruit did, you may get better results.

Maybe also gheck the voltage you are getting at the Vin/Gnd next to the USB.
Click to expand...

You were absolutely right!
Now it works!

Basically, behaviour is different if it's powered via MicroUSB port or VIN/GND pins (e.g. via Battery Pack).
Through Battery Pack is required to use GND pin (the one you showed) to the ground, otherwise signals on 0-10 Pins won't be recognized.

There's always to learn here! :)

Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it

Alessandro
 
Let us go back to base wiring. On all electronics, ground connections are shared. All buttons basically connect to ground and a communication pin. Any accessory that interfaces with any part of the setup must have a ground connection to everything else. Not having everything grounded on the same common ground rail will cause all manner of weird issues and some of them will be delayed issues.

As an FYI for wiring I found it easier to solder in screw terminals as they are a lower profile and easier to fix in the field.

For power switches you are making an interrupt on the positive line coming from the battery or power source.

I also looked at your solder joints and there are a couple that are iffy but they look like ok connections.
 
Hi Moe,

I'm almost done so now I'm focusing to streghten a little bit what could be weak (e.g. some parts which required some plastic soldering to be on the safe side, for instance).

One thing is that I need to replace current buttons on gauntlets with more stable ones, like yours below (currently I have button yes, but right part is glued and I would like to insert something more reliable...)

1696950417216.png


Do you have a url reference for those buttons highlighted?

On Amazon Italy I can find them


but with parker screw instead of normal ones, did you maybe make them on your own via separate screw?

Thanks a lot!

Alessandro
 
ale84iac said:
Hi Moe,

I'm almost done so now I'm focusing to streghten a little bit what could be weak (e.g. some parts which required some plastic soldering to be on the safe side, for instance).

One thing is that I need to replace current buttons on gauntlets with more stable ones, like yours below (currently I have button yes, but right part is glued and I would like to insert something more reliable...)

View attachment 1749310

Do you have a url reference for those buttons highlighted?

On Amazon Italy I can find them


but with parker screw instead of normal ones, did you maybe make them on your own via separate screw?

Thanks a lot!

Alessandro
Click to expand...
I just used chicago screws from buckleguy.com on mine
 
ale84iac said:
Hi Moe,
Do you have a url reference for those buttons highlighted?
but with parker screw instead of normal ones, did you maybe make them on your own via separate screw?
Click to expand...

KSJ has the right Idea. These are my buttons: Amazon.com

and I used regular 8/32 screws and with either 1/8" Chicago 8/32 fasteners or just regular 8/32 nuts to secure.

If you are overseas, it'll probably be closer to an M4 screw and nut to get the job done.

Just remember to cut the excess screw. I usually dry fit, mark the end, cut, and then re-attach. It's tedius but it comes out nice. I also like to smooth the cut end with a file.
 
Last edited:
Hey all! You guys have been incredible with your explanations, and MoeSizzlac, your project is an inspiration. You actually answered a question for me already on Thingiverse, but then I found this forum. I have an additional question. On the power pack, how did you separate out the power switch and extend it? Did you snip or unsolder the connections and then resolder with wires?
 
MastaCam said:
Hey all! You guys have been incredible with your explanations, and MoeSizzlac, your project is an inspiration. You actually answered a question for me already on Thingiverse, but then I found this forum. I have an additional question. On the power pack, how did you separate out the power switch and extend it? Did you snip or unsolder the connections and then resolder with wires?
Click to expand...
Exactly. I opened the battery pack up and unsoldered the original wires and put in longer ones and just re-routed the button to a spot on the outside of the backpack.
 
I think I literally have everything in place. The ethernet cable works fantastic for connecting the gauntlet to the helmet, but how did you supply power to the gauntlet? Did you connect the helmet to the backpack for power which then supplies power to the gauntlet through the ethernet cable, or did you connect the backpack to the gauntlet?
 
MastaCam said:
I think I literally have everything in place. The ethernet cable works fantastic for connecting the gauntlet to the helmet, but how did you supply power to the gauntlet? Did you connect the helmet to the backpack for power which then supplies power to the gauntlet through the ethernet cable, or did you connect the backpack to the gauntlet?
Click to expand...
Welp, nevermind, I went back to page one of this forum post and saw that you have two ethernet cables for this purpose.
 
Question:

I am very close to completion. My question is if the gauntlet is powered via usb from the battery pack, how is the arduino powered? I understand that the MPU-6050 and servos draw power from the arduino and that they are the only items plugged into the arduino. This does bring up a second question...

I have relocated the switch from the battery pack to the outside of the cannon back pack. I haave a second switch in the gauntlet to power the servos/laser. power from USB to the adafruit sound fx board and all switch/buttons work meaning all sound button play the correct sound assigned to them. Large switch turns on flashlight, double switch flashes light and plays cannon blast sound. Secondary switch in gauntlet feeds power to the servos...ect

However, If my servos recieve power from the arduino, from where am I running power/control from to go to this second switch?

The MPU-6050 is powered and small led is green, but no movement comes from servos when moving MPU-6050.

What am I missing?
 
Geppetto2023 said:
Question:

I am very close to completion. My question is if the gauntlet is powered via usb from the battery pack, how is the arduino powered? I understand that the MPU-6050 and servos draw power from the arduino and that they are the only items plugged into the arduino. This does bring up a second question...

I have relocated the switch from the battery pack to the outside of the cannon back pack. I haave a second switch in the gauntlet to power the servos/laser. power from USB to the adafruit sound fx board and all switch/buttons work meaning all sound button play the correct sound assigned to them. Large switch turns on flashlight, double switch flashes light and plays cannon blast sound. Secondary switch in gauntlet feeds power to the servos...ect

However, If my servos recieve power from the arduino, from where am I running power/control from to go to this second switch?

The MPU-6050 is powered and small led is green, but no movement comes from servos when moving MPU-6050.

What am I missing?
Click to expand...
So, something I learned from Moe's wiring diagram (earlier in this thread) is that when you have the power source coming from the battery pack to the USB, it actually splits into two different paths:

First path goes to the Arduino and the MPU.
Second path goes to the switch in the gauntlet that controls the power for the servos and the soundboard.

This effectively makes it so that when you turn on the switch at the battery pack, the arduino and MPU turn on and become calibrated. Then you throw the switch on the gauntlet which wakes up the servos and the soundboard. So the circuit path for the servos and soundboard basically goes:

Battery pack -> line down to gauntlet -> power switch at gauntlet -> soundboard as well as back up the line to the backpack to the servos.

Consqeuently, Moe wired the LEDs or laser diodes in the helmet to this also so that they get powered on when you flip the switch at the gauntlet. Very clever :)
 
MastaCam said:
Battery pack -> line down to gauntlet -> power switch at gauntlet -> soundboard as well as back up the line to the backpack to the servos.
Click to expand...
Thank you for answering. I'd say the only thing I would add is that my soundboard is always on like the arduino but that doesn't mean you have to do it that way.
Geppetto2023 said:
Question:

I am very close to completion. My question is if the gauntlet is powered via usb from the battery pack, how is the arduino powered? I understand that the MPU-6050 and servos draw power from the arduino and that they are the only items plugged into the arduino. This does bring up a second question...

I have relocated the switch from the battery pack to the outside of the cannon back pack. I haave a second switch in the gauntlet to power the servos/laser. power from USB to the adafruit sound fx board and all switch/buttons work meaning all sound button play the correct sound assigned to them. Large switch turns on flashlight, double switch flashes light and plays cannon blast sound. Secondary switch in gauntlet feeds power to the servos...ect

However, If my servos recieve power from the arduino, from where am I running power/control from to go to this second switch?

The MPU-6050 is powered and small led is green, but no movement comes from servos when moving MPU-6050.

What am I missing?
Click to expand...
There in lies the kicker. Instead of the servos getting power from the arduino, they (and the lasers together) get it directly from the USB when you flip the switch on your gauntlet. The only thing the servos are getting from the Arduino is the data (yellow/orange wire)

Let me know if this makes sense
 
Hello MoeSizzlac. I recently downloaded the files from Thingiverse, but it looks like the "MoeSizzlac_-_Predator_-_Gauntlet_-_Right_-_Top_-_Blades_2_-_Print_2.stl" file is not downloading correctly. I've tried downloading it on it's own and a couple times in the zip file, but it comes as just 1lb and won't open. Is there any chance you could re-upload that file? Or is it just a problem on my end maybe?
 
cirlin said:
Hello MoeSizzlac. I recently downloaded the files from Thingiverse, but it looks like the "MoeSizzlac_-_Predator_-_Gauntlet_-_Right_-_Top_-_Blades_2_-_Print_2.stl" file is not downloading correctly. I've tried downloading it on it's own and a couple times in the zip file, but it comes as just 1lb and won't open. Is there any chance you could re-upload that file? Or is it just a problem on my end maybe?
Click to expand...
I'm not getting an error: https://www.thingiverse.com/download:7424249. I attached it just in case
 

Attachments

  • MoeSizzlac_-_Predator_-_Gauntlet_-_Right_-_Top_-_Blades_2_-_Print_2.stl
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Hey all, I was trying to figure out the value of this resistor.
Does anyone know - looks like from the color it might be 2200k (3%)?
(This is from Moe's Arduino schematic drawing for the canon servo control - for reference).
I have asked Crashworks 3D about going to the A.L.I.S.H.A., but they indicated the MXKD board has a few issues).
This leaves me figuring this out with the schematics.

what is the value of this.png


Appreciate any input that anyone can provide!
Many thanks!
 
Last edited:
AngusMcFLy said:
Hey all, I was trying to figure out the value of this resistor.
Does anyone know - looks like from the color it might be 2200k (3%)?
(This is from Moe's Arduino schematic drawing for the canon servo control - for reference).
I have asked Crashworks 3D about going to the A.L.I.S.H.A., but they indicated the MXKD board has a few issues).
This leaves me figuring this out with the schematics.

View attachment 1867257

Appreciate any input that anyone can provide!
Many thanks!
Click to expand...
NM! I found it—it was there all along, and somehow, I missed it: "I think I used 2M ohm 1/4 watt resistor" for the reset switch.

Onward!
 
MoeSizzlac said:
My late 2019 project I decided to take on was a Predator Costume like the one from the 1987 movie Predator with Arnold Schwarzenegger.

Updating for files I made/altered: Predator Armor - P1 Style - Hunter - from 1987 Movie Cut up for 8x10x8 Printer Bed. by moesizzlac

Non 3D printed parts:
1) Pleather Amazon.com
2) Cat 5 Cords
3) flash light Amazon.com
4) servos Amazon.com
5) arduina mega Amazon.com
6) mpu6050 Amazon.com
7) Battery Pack Amazon.com
8) momentary switches Amazon.com
9)various latching switches a) Amazon.com b) Amazon.com
10) adafruit audio FX board Adafruit Audio FX Sound Board - WAV/OGG Trigger with 2MB Flash
11) screen door mesh for the eyes
12) belts Amazon.com
13) wood and furniture pads for the feet Amazon.com
14) Net Amazon.com
15)wire 22 AWG Amazon.com
16) solder Amazon.com
17)velcro Amazon.com
18) leather sewing awl Amazon.com
19)bodysuit Amazon.com
20)zipper (for quick bathroom breaks) Amazon.com
21)Chicago screws Amazon.com
22) Snap Fasteners Amazon.com
23) Piano hinges Amazon.com
24) 8/32 nuts and bolts
25)Backer Rod 1" and 5/8" Amazon.com
26) Hard hat ratchet suspension Amazon.com
27) 22 gauge steel for hard hat ratchet system to attach to Simpson Strong-Tie LTB 19-1/2 in. 22-Gauge Galvanized Tension Bridging LTB20-R - The Home Depot
28) Strong magnets for the back plate ane sheet metal to make a hook so that it stays on
29) Vinyl stair tread to make the neck seal ROPPE Ribbed Profile Black 12-1/4 in. x 60 in. Square Nose Stair Tread Cover 60801P100 - The Home Depot
30) Rope Amazon.com
31)small speaker Amazon.com
32) Lasers Amazon.com
33) 85 ohm resistors for the lasers
34)Loom Tubing Amazon.com
36) Spring Amazon.com
36) I'm sure there is more but I don't know of any others off the top of my head

View attachment 1233578

Well not a 1/6th scale costume but rather a full sized one.

I can't make the costume perfect movie accurate because 1) I am no where near the height of the original actor who played the predator and 2) picture perfect is time and cost consuming. This costume was put together for under 500 I believe.

This build will be my version of a similar styled P1 Predator with as many bells and whistles as I can put together.

Like all things, we start with the planning. I went to the resources to get a bunch of Pepakura files to start converting for my project. Then I went to Thingiverse to see what they had and grabbed Predator Shoulder Cannon by makerslabcz.

After I had all the files, it was time to get to work and make everything printable. It took about a month in spare time to digitally fix everything up and resize it all to my body.

View attachment 1233579

The backpack:

This model was good for pepakura but not for a 3d print. I first ended up fixing the files and printing it out. This will be the shell to house most of electronics and power bank.

View attachment 1233580

View attachment 1233581

I only used half of this model from thingiverse and fitted it with a spot for a flashlight and a servo and an outlet for the wires to go out the lower back.

View attachment 1233582

View attachment 1233583

Both halves are held together with 8/32 screws and nuts.

View attachment 1233584

View attachment 1233585

Using this tutorial, I grabbed an Arduino Mega, an MPU6050, battery pack and wired everything up with 2 Cat 5 connections (One that goes to the helmet Where the mpu6050 will sit, and one to the left gauntlet for controls and sound)

View attachment 1233586

View attachment 1233587

This is a shot from underneath where the power switch is as well as the recharge port.



Left Gauntlet - Creation, sound and control.

Continuing with the planning, let's start with the pepakura file and add a hinge in the print so that it can flip up if I need it to. I also made a slot for my Phone below the flip plate.

View attachment 1233588

Let's allow holes for momentary switches and latching switches, cat5 connection and audio out on the flip plate:

View attachment 1233589

Now let's get it printed and loaded up:

View attachment 1233590

View attachment 1233591

View attachment 1233592

I wired it up with an adafruit soundfx board and started wiring everything together. The sound out went to a 3.5mm headphone jack which will plug into an external speaker.

View attachment 1233593

View attachment 1233594

It's actually much cleaner inside now.

View attachment 1233595

Final outside picture of the left gauntlet.
Click to expand...
This as really inspired me to have a go at this just printing the armour off use a different head and helmet but just hoping I can sort the servos and electronics out as Iv'e never tried anything like this before .Thanks for posting all the things to help make this happen many thanks
 
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