Parquette's accurate WITCH KING Gauntlets - My Replica and Research Thread

Parquette

New Member
Evening all! After years of on/off research on this particular costume, I have finally made what I think is one of the most accurate replicas of the Witch King's gauntlets.

Now let me begin first by saying, I am not saying other replicas are bad. I LOVE Kropserkel's replicas, and in fact he gave me fantastic advice for areas I was unsure about. I am by no means an expert on armor, but despite my research, there were still areas I needed tips and tricks on. Scott Maple, my hat's off to you sir. I'll have to buy a replica one of these days!

Alright, now for my replica.

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Ringwraith gauntlets 2.0. Made by me in 22 gauge steel. Now for some HD outdoor shots :D

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After tirelessly examining BTS pictures, footage, and realizing a lot of details were missing from replicas on the market, I took it upon myself to make as exact a replica as possible.

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Amongst the details never recreated by prop makers is an odd hinged plate on the bottom wrist. It intersects with the clamshell vambrace (with flute work also noticed at certain angles) and interlocks.

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Next the fluting on the upper vambrace parts all intersect, and don’t end abruptly as I had previously thought. The spikes on the knuckles are also smaller, and the overall craftsmanship is more crisp. The metacarpal under the knuckles has 2 sudden ridges hidden underneath, so it has a gapless overlap.

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Finally was the scaling texture, which was a tip provided by the wonderful @lordbloomfield on instagram, who trained under Stu Johnson - the blacksmith who made the screen used Nazgul armor. This effect is simple: Throw your parts in a coal-forge, increase heat to a high temperature (without warping or melting preferably), and once you see dark scaling on the entire surface, remove and use a steel brush drill bit to remove the loose flakes. Then polish on a wheel, and you get a two tone effect, which is dimensional and similar to the closeup at Weathertop (included below).

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I did for a while experiment with Muriatic acid, which worked close to this effect once out of 5 different attempts, but for kicks and giggles here's what that looked like:

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Below are some BTS pics I was able to track down from every corner of the internet. I certainly hope someone else who worked on the films will have higher depth photos than I have here, unfortunately Stu didn't have any available from his time on it. I hope you all enjoy!

Fig. 1: Fellowship of the Ring Witch King (without robes) costume screen test. This was what showed me the hinged plate under the wrist. And also showed me the geometric shape of the metacarpal plates, as opposed to the patterns Tested made available, which are very rounded off on the ends.

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Fig. 2: Test shot showing the full armor (that ultimately was redesigned to less resemble Sauron). This and the above image showed me the pointed finger lame at the end of the thumb is actually shorter and smaller than the rest. It's more likely the lame that comes before the spiked finger tips on the other fingers.

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Fig. 3: Details showing the top forearms plates, and their flute work.
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Fig. 4: 2 Images from Weathertop, showing not only the spiked knuckles, but also the scaling texture absent from replicas. I would also like to point out something that I wasn't able to easily get with my replica, and that was the knuckle spikes are actually protruding out from the plate. Notice they don't lay perfectly flat, but rather rise upward. Something I intend to remedy on the next go around in the future.
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Fig. 5: Armor mess-up, the wrist is disconnected from the hand, so it better articulates while holding Eowyn. But this showed me how the metacarpal plate is flush with the knuckle plate, and has 2 hidden ridges to simulate the other fingers not represented by the 3 row fluting design.

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Fig. 6. Gauntlet opened up, showing the odd plate under the wrist opened past the forearm vambrace.
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Fig. 7: Brightened image of gauntlet/rest of armor from Fig. 2, provided by Weta Workshop's website. This is what confirmed to me the scaling was the correct method. As an aside, it was made aware to me by Lord Bloomfield that Stu textured the "Grunt" Nazgul armor in an odd way:
Stu said that he would use spray glue as a resist and would basically muck with the nozzle so it would spray unevenly and he would let it go into the air and then land on the piece of metal randomly. At the time he used nitric acid Which as you probably know is about as full on as Muriatic Acid.

As you can see in these closeup photos (courtesy of Lord Bloomfield), that the prop on display at Weta's Cafe has a "criss-cross" haphazard etching all over it (also, this exact prop is oversized and was used in all closeups where the Nazgul reach out to Frodo. You can tell by the weird holes in the knuckle plate, which match up perfectly with the tree hiding scene, and the Arwen chase).

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Compare this with the Witch King Below. It's clear that the Witch King was done differently, and more naturally.

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Thank you all for perusing my thread, if you have any questions, I'll do my best to answer in a speedy time.
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Also, as a side note, I must give credit where credit is due: Knuckle welding done by a very close friend of mine, who also assisted with the scaling (I don't have a coal forge of my own). We used an early turn of the century (19th - 20th) coal forge while on a hot summer day. So we were feeling the heat that day, ha!

I was also told that Stu Johnson would use every trick in the book for the sake of time/effectiveness, so welding was definitely something he did. We also see evidence of this on some stunt helmets up for auction in recent years.
 
That looks phenomenal! The attention to detail fantastic especially considering how difficult it is to track down good reference photos of the original gauntlets. I’ve built a pair of gauntlets out of 18 gauge steel based on Tested and Kropserkel’s design with a few modifications. The two hidden ridges is a nice detail I missed when working on my own. Is there any chance you could show the bottom of your gauntlets and how those bottom plates hinge open and close?
 
That looks phenomenal! The attention to detail fantastic especially considering how difficult it is to track down good reference photos of the original gauntlets. I’ve built a pair of gauntlets out of 18 gauge steel based on Tested and Kropserkel’s design with a few modifications. The two hidden ridges is a nice detail I missed when working on my own. Is there any chance you could show the bottom of your gauntlets and how those bottom plates hinge open and close?
Thank you Drof! Would love to see a pic of yours eventually!

Yeah let me get some for you. It might be a brief delay here, things have been busy lately. Have a good Easter!
 
Thank you Drof! Would love to see a pic of yours eventually!

Yeah let me get some for you. It might be a brief delay here, things have been busy lately. Have a good Easter!
Thanks I really appreciate it! Here’s a couple pictures of mine if it displays. I made a second pair for a friend some time ago. Right now I’m redesigning and preparing to make a third pair. Happy Easter to you as well!

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Thanks I really appreciate it! Here’s a couple pictures of mine if it displays. I made a second pair for a friend some time ago. Right now I’m redesigning and preparing to make a third pair. Happy Easter to you as well!

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Such amazing work! I can only imagine the work it takes to build them in steel. I am currently working on EVA foam versions based off Adam Savage's & Punished Props templates. I am using 5mm foam and 2mm for the smaller parts.
Sadly EVA foam is a bit thick so it feels like I'm fighting against it to get it to move properly lol. I actually sanded the edges thin and put in some extra washers between the chicago screws but still not quite happy with the movement.
I was thinking about adding a leather 'spine' along the metacarpal plates to get them to return to their original position better.

Parquette, really appreciate the work you put in researching the gauntlets. As I said I used the templates from Tested & also noticed some differences, especially the part you mentioned with the rounded metacarpal plates at the edges.

" But this showed me how the metacarpal plate is flush with the knuckle plate, and has 2 hidden ridges to simulate the other fingers not represented by the 3 row fluting design."

This was also quite interesting to me but I don't quite understand what you mean, could you elaborate a bit maybe? I know there are 3 rows of fluting but how are the 2 hidden ridges representing the other fingers?

Also I got this pic from N2Darkness which is a bit better quality than the one you have looks like
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Such amazing work! I can only imagine the work it takes to build them in steel. I am currently working on EVA foam versions based off Adam Savage's & Punished Props templates. I am using 5mm foam and 2mm for the smaller parts.
Sadly EVA foam is a bit thick so it feels like I'm fighting against it to get it to move properly lol. I actually sanded the edges thin and put in some extra washers between the chicago screws but still not quite happy with the movement.
I was thinking about adding a leather 'spine' along the metacarpal plates to get them to return to their original position better.

Parquette, really appreciate the work you put in researching the gauntlets. As I said I used the templates from Tested & also noticed some differences, especially the part you mentioned with the rounded metacarpal plates at the edges.

" But this showed me how the metacarpal plate is flush with the knuckle plate, and has 2 hidden ridges to simulate the other fingers not represented by the 3 row fluting design."

This was also quite interesting to me but I don't quite understand what you mean, could you elaborate a bit maybe? I know there are 3 rows of fluting but how are the 2 hidden ridges representing the other fingers?

Also I got this pic from N2Darkness which is a bit better quality than the one you have looks likeView attachment 1924776:

Thanks! The image is helpful as well. Steel was definitely a painful choice on my part lol. That’s awesome that you are working on your foam version! The leather spine idea sounds like a good idea and should help. I have very little experience with foam, but when working on my steel gauntlets I have more of a slot than just a hole for the rivets to help them have more movement. That said I don’t know how well that would translate into foam considering that it’s nowhere near as rigid as steel.

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This may not be the best image but hopefully this sort of shows how there is still room for the rivets to slide thus providing better movement.

The hidden ridges under the fingers close the gap under the knuckle plate, specifically for the ring and index finger. With only three flutes there would be an additional gap for the fourth knuckle of the gauntlet. Having 3 flutes and 2 hidden ridges leaves an additional flute but that flute seems to simply close an additional gap towards the edge under the knuckle plate. Traditionally a lot of gothic finger gauntlets would have 4 flutes to represent the four fingers of the gauntlets. That’s just my understanding though. Perhaps Parquette has a better explanation.

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Here you can kind of see how each of the four flutes line up under the knuckle plate and represent the four fingers.
 
Thanks! The image is helpful as well. Steel was definitely a painful choice on my part lol. That’s awesome that you are working on your foam version! The leather spine idea sounds like a good idea and should help. I have very little experience with foam, but when working on my steel gauntlets I have more of a slot than just a hole for the rivets to help them have more movement. That said I don’t know how well that would translate into foam considering that it’s nowhere near as rigid as steel.

View attachment 1924923
This may not be the best image but hopefully this sort of shows how there is still room for the rivets to slide thus providing better movement.

The hidden ridges under the fingers close the gap under the knuckle plate, specifically for the ring and index finger. With only three flutes there would be an additional gap for the fourth knuckle of the gauntlet. Having 3 flutes and 2 hidden ridges leaves an additional flute but that flute seems to simply close an additional gap towards the edge under the knuckle plate. Traditionally a lot of gothic finger gauntlets would have 4 flutes to represent the four fingers of the gauntlets. That’s just my understanding though. Perhaps Parquette has a better explanation.

View attachment 1924927
Here you can kind of see how each of the four flutes line up under the knuckle plate and represent the four fingers.
Howdy Droff, sorry for the delay there, but I got some photos as promised.

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Minimal gap between metacarpal and knuckle plates. Note the 4 flute lines for the fingers, including the two hidden ones.

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Underside showing the hidden flutes where they begin and end. Also, the one outermost flute closest to the thumb, actually doesn't line up with the finger at all. That's where the first hidden flute line is. The outermost one actually lines up with a flute line in the knuckle end itself.

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As evidenced in this BTS pic.
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Also if there are any concerns about articulation, fear not. Watch me whip, watch me... y'know.

Full side to side movement, downward and upward movement, this thing is buttery smooth to wear!

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Hope this all helps, feel free to hit me with anymore questions or requests :D
 
Thanks! The image is helpful as well. Steel was definitely a painful choice on my part lol. That’s awesome that you are working on your foam version! The leather spine idea sounds like a good idea and should help. I have very little experience with foam, but when working on my steel gauntlets I have more of a slot than just a hole for the rivets to help them have more movement. That said I don’t know how well that would translate into foam considering that it’s nowhere near as rigid as steel.

View attachment 1924923
This may not be the best image but hopefully this sort of shows how there is still room for the rivets to slide thus providing better movement.

The hidden ridges under the fingers close the gap under the knuckle plate, specifically for the ring and index finger. With only three flutes there would be an additional gap for the fourth knuckle of the gauntlet. Having 3 flutes and 2 hidden ridges leaves an additional flute but that flute seems to simply close an additional gap towards the edge under the knuckle plate. Traditionally a lot of gothic finger gauntlets would have 4 flutes to represent the four fingers of the gauntlets. That’s just my understanding though. Perhaps Parquette has a better explanation.

View attachment 1924927
Here you can kind of see how each of the four flutes line up under the knuckle plate and represent the four fingers.
Thanks for the explanation! I think the friction with larger slots in foam might cause some damage but not entirely sure about that.
I'll see if the leather spine solves most of the problems I'm having first.
Creating steel armor would be so cool btw, just don't think my neighbours would appreciate all the hammering all that much. Maybe in the future.

Howdy Droff, sorry for the delay there, but I got some photos as promised.

View attachment 1925247

Minimal gap between metacarpal and knuckle plates. Note the 4 flute lines for the fingers, including the two hidden ones.

View attachment 1925248
Underside showing the hidden flutes where they begin and end. Also, the one outermost flute closest to the thumb, actually doesn't line up with the finger at all. That's where the first hidden flute line is. The outermost one actually lines up with a flute line in the knuckle end itself.

View attachment 1925249

As evidenced in this BTS pic. View attachment 1925250

Also if there are any concerns about articulation, fear not. Watch me whip, watch me... y'know.

Full side to side movement, downward and upward movement, this thing is buttery smooth to wear!

View attachment 1925253
Hope this all helps, feel free to hit me with anymore questions or requests :D

Thank you so much for this! Definitely will make some tweaks to the foam gauntlets based off of this.
 
Howdy Droff, sorry for the delay there, but I got some photos as promised.

View attachment 1925247

Minimal gap between metacarpal and knuckle plates. Note the 4 flute lines for the fingers, including the two hidden ones.

View attachment 1925248
Underside showing the hidden flutes where they begin and end. Also, the one outermost flute closest to the thumb, actually doesn't line up with the finger at all. That's where the first hidden flute line is. The outermost one actually lines up with a flute line in the knuckle end itself.

View attachment 1925249

As evidenced in this BTS pic. View attachment 1925250

Also if there are any concerns about articulation, fear not. Watch me whip, watch me... y'know.

Full side to side movement, downward and upward movement, this thing is buttery smooth to wear!

View attachment 1925253
Hope this all helps, feel free to hit me with anymore questions or requests :D

These images are most definitely helpful! I really appreciate all the photos. Again, those gauntlets look phenomenal! I’ve almost completed my new template for a third pair and will probably start building them before the end of this month. The original two I built were far too large for my tiny hands lol. They also had a couple of small flaws I’d like to fix.

Thanks for the explanation! I think the friction with larger slots in foam might cause some damage but not entirely sure about that.
I'll see if the leather spine solves most of the problems I'm having first.
Creating steel armor would be so cool btw, just don't think my neighbours would appreciate all the hammering all that much. Maybe in the future.



Thank you so much for this! Definitely will make some tweaks to the foam gauntlets based off of this.

I wish you well on your foam gauntlets! Also yeah making steel armor can be a tad noisy at times. Building steel armor is a whole adventure of learning and I highly recommended you try it at some point.
 
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