My last Cap shield ... seriously!

I want to try an make my own shield but I have a few questions that I don't think I've seen yet. When trying to get a quote for a blank shield, is there anything I need to describe to them such as the curve of the shield, the type of groove, or how the edges of it should be? Also any tips on applying JB weld? I don't have much experience with it so I'm not sure if there's a specific type that's better suited for aluminum or what. And since the shield is curved and I don't have any clamps deep enough how do you hold the brackets or star in place while it cures? How confident do you feel about the bond? Also, for the clear coat, you said you had the star done separately and attached later, is there a downside to having that done after they're attached? Wouldn't the clear coat interfere with the JB weld?
 
Okay, here we go.

When you order the shield from Rolando (ROLO0811@aol.com) most people ask for his "standard shield" which has a 9.5" center circle. You can get something custom, but 95% of the shields you see here are his "standard" ... He has all the curvature dialed in so no need to worry about that.

As far as bonding the star. A little JB Weld goes a long way. You don't want it smooshing out the edge. You'll be gently curving the 5 points of the star down to match the curve of the shield before you attach it. Most people hold it in place with some masking tape and a couple small weights. No clamping needed.

It's important to bond metal to metal. if you attach the star before paint (some people do) it's no problem. If you attach it AFTER paint (like I prefer to) you need to mask an area where your star will attach so it gets no paint or clearcoat. I usually mask a slightly smaller star shape.

If you attach a set of brackets (like the ones I make) to the back, you'll again bend them into the curve of the shield before you attach. I never use JB Weld for the brackets. Others have. I use the 3M Outdoor Adhesive Tape. Holds like a mother.

Hope this helps :)

Valor
 
Valor said:
Okay, here we go.

When you order the shield from Rolando (ROLO0811@aol.com) most people ask for his "standard shield" which has a 9.5" center circle. You can get something custom, but 95% of the shields you see here are his "standard" ... He has all the curvature dialed in so no need to worry about that.

As far as bonding the star. A little JB Weld goes a long way. You don't want it smooshing out the edge. You'll be gently curving the 5 points of the star down to match the curve of the shield before you attach it. Most people hold it in place with some masking tape and a couple small weights. No clamping needed.

It's important to bond metal to metal. if you attach the star before paint (some people do) it's no problem. If you attach it AFTER paint (like I prefer to) you need to mask an area where your star will attach so it gets no paint or clearcoat. I usually mask a slightly smaller star shape.

If you attach a set of brackets (like the ones I make) to the back, you'll again bend them into the curve of the shield before you attach. I never use JB Weld for the brackets. Others have. I use the 3M Outdoor Adhesive Tape. Holds like a mother.

Hope this helps :)

Valor
Click to expand...

Thanks, this is really helpful. There are a few metal spinning places around me that I wanted to get a quote from. I'd like to keep costs down so If I could avoid shipping and handling charges, or maybe even get a better price, that would be great. That's why I wanted to know how best to describe to them what I want. I'll contact Rolando, but I'd really like some options, so any help with that would be really appreciated.

Tape? Seriously? I was feeling iffy about JB weld as a concept but now you tell me there's a tape that could support the weight? Freaking science, man.

Oh, and one more stupid question is the depth of the curve 3" or 4"? I recall seeing it somewhere but I couldn't find the thread.
 
Details are listed above. Rolando. You seek Rolando.
 
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is a nice shield, really; :thumbsup :thumbsup :thumbsup, congratulations !!! ; and to remove wax & grease, I use thinner or isopropyl alcohol, never fails.
 
Hi Valor, I'm new to the RPF but have been building props a while now.

Based in the UK i'm about to get my own shield metal spun for me and I have one quick question about the shield regarding grooves for each ring, do you know how wide these are? 1mm, 2mm?

Any help would be great.

Thanks kindly

Clark
 
I'm so jealous about the shield i really have to start my own project!

Valor could u ell me how u attached the bracket on the back?

I read your first shield thread about 10 times and can't find how u did this. Maybe i'm just a little blind.

Thank u in advance.
 
Valor, excellent build as always! Your original sled build has been my model for the two builds I did last year & the ones I'm about to start. I haven't made one from an aluminum blank yet, but I'm making a sled version to sell to a friend & hope to use that money to get started on a blank next.

Do you think the 3M mounting tape will hold leather to metal? Because I've been making these oh a budget, I haven't invested in a bracket kit. For the last two builds, I used ultra-heavy nylon attached to the shield by t-nuts & screws that were JB Welded to the shield. This time, I'm upping the look with actual leather straps. I don't have the tools at the moment to make metal bases like your kit, so I was thinking of attaching the leather directly to the shield in one of a few ways:

1). T-nuts JB Welded to shield, leather straps screwed on to the nuts
2). T-nuts JB Welded to shield, leather straps screwed on to the nuts, and also JB Weld the leather that's near the T-nuts
3). No T-nuts, just JB Weld the leather directly to the shield
4). 3M mounting tape the leather directly to the shield

* With options 3 & 4, I would probably add rivets to the leather for look

Since I'm going to be selling one to a friend, who is then in turn giving it as a gift to her husband, I want to make sure that it's as strong & sturdy as possible, which is why I'm hoping to do something sturdier than option 1.

What do you think? The 3M tape would be the cleanest and easiest to ensure that there is no mess oozing out the sides of the straps. Would it hold well directly metal to leather?
 
I think your plan number 1 sounds most viable to me. I don't suspect JBWeld will grip the face of a piece of leather for very long. Leather is organic and the face of it is likely going to rip away from the weight. If you are having luck with JBWeld holding a T-Nut on your previous shields, it would seem adding the straps to those would work as well.

An alternate plan that I can think of would be to makesome small "pads" to attach the leather strapping to. Picture a 2" x 2" piece of 1/8" thick aluminum. Drill a hole at the center big enough for the T-nut shaft to for through from the back. Line the back with 3M Tape. Four of those would hold everything securely. Just another thought.

Good luck.
 
Valor, what is your opinion of using JB Weld steel stick to adhere the star onto the shield? Have you ever used it?
 
I haven't tried JB Weld's STEEL STIK product. In reading the description of it it seems more like a putty and a glue. You mix up equal parts of putty with your hands and plug holes, patch pieces etc. I'm not sure it would work for the star. I would stick with regular JB Weld.
 
Valor said:
I haven't tried JB Weld's STEEL STIK product. In reading the description of it it seems more like a putty and a glue. You mix up equal parts of putty with your hands and plug holes, patch pieces etc. I'm not sure it would work for the star. I would stick with regular JB Weld.
Click to expand...

Okay thanks!
 
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