My last Cap shield ... seriously!

Discussion in 'Marvel Costumes and Props' started by Valor, Apr 21, 2012.

  1. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    This is my just completed movie Captain America shield. The build and paint process is similar to my previous threads, but I used some upgrades.

    I used the Duplicolor Metalcast paints for the colors. But this time I took the shield to a professional auto painter who shot a coat of acrylic polyurethane auto clearcoat on it. And WOW what a difference. The rattlecan clears I had use on my previous shields were VERY fragile and didn't take much to scratch or nick them. This clear coat feels bulletproof and is smooth as a babies butt. Totally worth the extra $70 the guy charged me.

    This version also has my waterjet cut brackets and color accurate straps. Now having done three of these, I'm pretty burned out on Cap shields. I think I'm going to keep this one around.



    http://www.therpf.com/f13/captain-america-movie-shield-bracket-systems-143264/#post2193101

    http://www.therpf.com/f13/metal-movie-cap-shield-stars-129717/

    http://www.therpf.com/f9/metal-movie-cap-shield-budget-done-final-128238/

    http://www.therpf.com/f9/version-2-0-movie-metal-cap-shield-134819/
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
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  2. nlschutd

    nlschutd Well-Known Member

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    Realy Nice dude!
     
  3. usconcept

    usconcept Well-Known Member

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    Nice dude!

    Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk 2
     
  4. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Wow. The finish on that is incredible! Great job. It's come a long way from your first!
     
  5. Crusaderman2004

    Crusaderman2004 Active Member

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    I think you got it down by now, my friend! :) Truly awesome
     
  6. Finhead

    Finhead Sr Member

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    Who are you kidding you'll do another. ;) lol
    So same brackets that are on the way then? :cool
    Yes I have been saying the Automotive clears make a huge difference since day one, I'm an autobdy tech by trade so it's all I use on the important stuff. Looks perfect.
     
  7. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yep, these are the same brackets from my recent run ... well, except for the clearcoat. Same leather and buckles too.
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2012
  8. Mechinyun

    Mechinyun Sr Member

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    Wow thats really pretty looking!! Great work.
     
  9. Flattery

    Flattery Well-Known Member

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    Truly awesome. I love the sheen and brushed texture. Fine, fine work!
     
  10. drakeprimeone

    drakeprimeone Well-Known Member

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    As usual Valor great work. Did you have the auto paint shop clear coat the star seperately before attaching or did you stick the star on first? Did you ever figure out that fingerprint residue problem you were having?
     
  11. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yes, and I'm glad I did. THe star look much more finished when attached. I'm pretty sure the fingerprint issue of my previous shield was either due to using crappy acetone, or that the clear I was using was laquer clear coat – which never really "dries".
     
  12. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Honestly, and I swear this isn't going to lead me to making ANOTHER shield, the only nagging though I have with this, is it might be TOOOOOO good looking. Like TOOOO glossy. I know the real shield was more of a matte finish at times. But ... I must push those thoughts out of my mind :)
     
  13. Kevin Gossett

    Kevin Gossett Master Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    :lol

    I wasn't going to say it!
     
  14. Finhead

    Finhead Sr Member

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    Give it a nice even wet sand with 2000 grit if you find it too glossy. Just watch your eges as they will break though about 4x faster than the flate surface. If that doesn't look the way you want you can polish it back up in a few minutes. Just a suggestion though. :)

     
  15. L0cKe

    L0cKe New Member

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    That is seriously some top notch work. Absolutely love that glossy finish!
     
  16. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Great suggestions Fin. I might take you up on it once I'm done admiring myself in the mirror-like finish :)
     
  17. drakeprimeone

    drakeprimeone Well-Known Member

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    I know what you mean, I had my shield clear coated by my wife's cousin who owns a body shop. It came out super glossy to the point that it pretty much looked like a car paint job.

    Either way.. making ANOTHER shield is no bad thing. It's still fun and a challenge to improve upon yourself with each successive build
     
  18. kdawg1

    kdawg1 Sr Member

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    Sweet! That is really nice.
     
  19. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I can't stress enough though the difference in durability that a pro clearcoat gives. It's a catalyzed finish that is INFINITELY tougher than any rattlecan clear. WELL worth doing in my book. It's possible an auto painter could spray a more matte finish clear. Or, as Finhead suggested, you can knockdown the gloss on your own.
     
  20. Finhead

    Finhead Sr Member

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    And on that note yes you can spray any variance of gloss to matte you like, you just add more or less matting agent to the clear coat. I used it all the time mostly a few years ago when the satin black was all the rage on the Harleys etc. You could wet sand it down with some 1000 grit and get the same guy to give it a few coats with a little satin clear. That is the nice thing about 2K anything it fully dries so there is zero chance of issues to go back in a paint or touch up blend in or spot.
     
  21. kalissuperman

    kalissuperman Active Member

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    outstanding! really something to be proud of.
     
  22. OhYeahItsJosh

    OhYeahItsJosh Member

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    Nicely done!
     
  23. Chris27989

    Chris27989 Well-Known Member

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    Valor and anyone that can help. Do you have any tips on how to remove fingerprints from the aluminium before you spray it as I have touched mine and can't seem to get the prints off it

    Thanks chris

    But valor superb paint job
     
  24. Finhead

    Finhead Sr Member

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    Wax and grease remover then Acetone.
    You can buy this in a LT , very handy to have if your painting something that came out of a silicone mold anyway. :)
    Welcome to Pro Form Products
     
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  25. Chris Fields

    Chris Fields Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    A lot of good info here.

    Btw, Valor, for a shield I am working on for a stunt show, we are experimenting with various auto clear coats for durability and scratch resistance. Pretty much the same as you have done. And I agree the gloss is a bit too much for the right look. It's a delicate balance though, as if you matte it too much, it takes away the metal luster. We're trying to find the happy medium that gives it the right look that my usual clear coat gives. :)
     
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  26. Chris27989

    Chris27989 Well-Known Member

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    Cheer Fin, I've got some of that in the garage knew it would come in handy not just on the car
     
  27. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  28. spiderfan11

    spiderfan11 Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    That looks great. I don't think you should feel bad about the multiple attempts. I've done the same thing. Everytime I make one I say "this is the last one! no more!", and then I think of something I could improve...ugh.

    I think I'm going to give the the auto clear coat a shot as well after seeing the way yours turned out! I just emailed a local shop for an estimate. I swear I'll be 100% happy one of these days :/ The good news is that I can at least make my money back each time I cave and decide to give it another go.
     
  29. Chewie Louie

    Chewie Louie Member

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    Valor, did you attach the brackets on this version with strong adhesive tape like before, or did you use JB weld?
     
  30. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    I used the 3M Scotch outdoor tape. Ridiculously strong. :)
     
  31. kdflash

    kdflash Active Member

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    WOW that does make a difference very nice
     
  32. theavengerguy

    theavengerguy New Member

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    man that's awesome...are you going to make a thread with step by step instructions? that'd be really helpful to me, as I am interested in starting my own...where did u get the blank shield though? thanks
     
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  33. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  34. Al May

    Al May Well-Known Member

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    Fantastic:love:love:love, True thing of beauty.Very good job
     
  35. firefly827347

    firefly827347 Active Member

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    Great work! So jealous, I really want one of these but I wouldn't even know where to start, and I don't have the funds to buy a blank or completed one. Congrats on such a fine job!
     
  36. Chewie Louie

    Chewie Louie Member

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    Valor, I'm getting a little frustrated painting the shield. I know you have stated before that one should apply several thins coats, but should we try to get up a little close and do a "wet" coat, or should it just be several thin coats applied while holding the can 8-10 inches away?

    It's just hard to tell from some of the pictures of successful builds to judge exactly how the color looks. In some the color has a matte look while in others it appears very shiny and glossy.

    Thoughts?

    Louis
     
  37. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Louis, for the color coats don't worry about the surface finish of the paint. Your clearcoat will set the gloss. And it doesn't even matter if one part of the shield is flat looking and one part is shiny. You are not trying to get a nice sheen with the color. You are just getting color down nice and even. For example, you could have one half of the blue circle look flat, and the other half shiny. When you put on your clear, it'll all even out. Trust me. Your main goal is nice even tone.
     
  38. Chewie Louie

    Chewie Louie Member

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    Got it. Thank you once again for your input. No doubt others seeing this thread will appreciate it as well. Been having rainy weather in Florida this week, so I may have to wait until a nice day to paint again. I hope to create my own thread in the future to share my results.
     
  39. Crusaderman2004

    Crusaderman2004 Active Member

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    Yes, this thread is already helping me too! Just as Valor has done for me in the past SEVERAL times. His expertise is invaluable with these shields.

    Is it normal for the paint to be "gritty"? I painted my blue circle and the paint was on pretty evenly, but it seemed to come out so gritty that I stripped it to do it again. Should the paint go on smooth or does the clear coat gloss it up and smooth it out?

    Valor, what you said above is absolutely golden for those of us that just started painting these!
     
  40. bjall4jc

    bjall4jc Member

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    I wish I would have remember reading this Sunday night. I had repainted another few coats of red trying to get rid of the flat look on a few areas of the shield...Now I have stripped it down to bare metal again. I'll remember it this time. Ah, learning.
     
  41. Itsanonsense

    Itsanonsense New Member

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    Not a fan of Cap Am, but that is incredibly gorgeous!

    PS: I'm using a lot of superlatives since I found this site, but reaally...
     
  42. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Paint get's dusty or gritty for a couple reasons. You might be waiting too long between coats. Recoat within 10 minutes. All 3-4 of your coats should be done within 30-40 minutes. Or, you could be spraying too far from the surface, meaning the paint is drying before it lands. Don't get too close, but 10-12" away should do.

    Valor
     
  43. Crusaderman2004

    Crusaderman2004 Active Member

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    Hmm. I was really careful to not go past 10 minutes when I painted and I know I was within 8-10 inches. I've already stripped my shield again, though. I think I'll wait a little less time in between coats. I'll also follow your tip (which I thought of doing in the first place, but foolishly didn't) and warm up the cans in some water.

    All I know is my paint was dusty/gritty and definitely not the smooth texture I'm seeing you experts come up with. I was immediately concerned when I started painting because the paint was hardly adhering to the metal and came out very "misty". I'm assuming this means I may have been a bit to far, yes? Or maybe I didn't give a proper shake to the can? It's just paint, right? :)

    Thanks as always, Valor.
     
  44. Chris Fields

    Chris Fields Well-Known Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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  45. Agent A

    Agent A Active Member

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    Woowww! Excellent work.. I think it looks perfect the way it is.. Ready to start selling them? :D
     
  46. Chewie Louie

    Chewie Louie Member

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    Success! Incorporating Valor's suggestions, this is what I did:

    I opted to start with the blue center so as not to waste paint on failed attempts. This was my third attempt as I too found my first attempts to be course, grainy, rough, uneven, etc.

    This time I:

    1. Took the shield outside and allowed the shield to acclimate to the outside temperature. Living in Florida I wanted to avoid any condensation forming on the surface.

    2. I propped the shield up on an old chair so that it was standing up almost vertically. The first two attempts at it I had the shield lying flat on the ground. I just knew that was a mistake and went ahead and did it anyway. With the shield upright, the paint flowed out of the can much, much smoother.

    3. Shake the can for at least 2 minutes.

    4. Make sure the blue masking tape, or whatever you used and cut into the shield's grooves, are properly adhered to the surface. I almost blew my third attempt when I noticed tape inside the grooves had apparently lifted up in some spots over night. I was able to quickly lay it back down with a tiny flathead screwdriver.

    5. Keep an xacto knife nearby in case a bug or large particle of dust or dirt lands on the paint. I acted quickly and was able to remove two foreign particles with no problems.

    6. Again, with the spray cans upright, the paint flowed so much nicer and smoother onto the surface. I used quick back and forth overlapping strokes about 8-10 inches from the shield. If you hesitate for an instant too long on one spot, you'll get a buildup of paint that will result in a "wet" spot. Of course if you lay down too much, it will run.

    7. I waited about 5 minutes between coats. Shaking the can each time.

    8. I followed Valor's advice and aimed for a nice even color throughout. I think I nailed it.

    Good luck to all.
     
  47. Chewie Louie

    Chewie Louie Member

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    Hey Valor, finished painting my shield, and it's looking pretty good. Not perfect, but I am happy with the results. Did I understand the above correctly, that you had the shield and star clear coated separately, AND THEN you attached the star? If so, just so I understand the reasoning, why? What do you mean by the star looked much more finished when attached?

    Thanks.

    Louis
     
  48. Valor

    Valor Sr Member RPF PREMIUM MEMBER

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    Yes I did. I'm a fan of painting THEN assembling. It allows you to control each item. With the star, I was also worried about the fact that there might be a bit of a gap in some spots between the star and shield that might make a bad paint transition. Meaning, the paint light go over a joint between the star and shield that wasn't solid and crack later. Glueing it on after finishing meant everything looked stronger. I'm kinda picky about details :)
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2012
  49. Chewie Louie

    Chewie Louie Member

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    Thanks. I see what you're saying. I'm gonna treat the star like a car's emblems which are attached after the car has been painted and clear coated. Now to find a local body shop that doesn't think I'm crazy bringing in a Captain America shield.
     
  50. GBrittelleJr

    GBrittelleJr Well-Known Member

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    What adhesive do you use to attach the star?
     

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