Pedro

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
I found those when looking for real/accurate diagrams for your project, this is about the only thing I found, despite lots of “blueprints” etc. looking at the notes on them, I’d say these were drawn by a gunsmith for replacement parts? Nor surprised that you nailed the extractor, you did the Merr-Sonn button nearly perfectly from a couple pics!

I’ve thought about the grips a lot. I think they’re just lathed slightly conical cylinders, cut in half. Then you just have to figure out the little cuts at the top, they’re a bit wacko! I might be wrong as always, I haven’t done anything to confirm this, just imagining how I might make them.

Oh, and I only use mm as a matter of preference. The base 10 system just works better for me. Plus 1mm is smaller than 1/16, so it’s more accurate hah! I think machinists might tend to prefer imperial, at least in the US!

I won’t nag for today’s progress… ;)
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Here’s a few assembly pictures of the bolt and extractor..
3AB6CD0B-F653-494F-9E53-618C19A8297B.png
9ED6FC4C-1522-4286-8D70-CBB950BD19D8.png
7853C57B-5CAF-48D5-A42C-BA947D105871.png
D2B35055-FB55-4E85-A091-8B72C3D5A06E.png
 
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deadbolt

Sr Member
Looking good, buddy!

I always liked the triple purpose 'V' shaped, machined spring-steel part that goes into the side of lockframe acting as a spring for the Sear and primary Rear Lock, as well as working as the center post of the Hammer as well. Very clever stuff..though difficult to measure and model, a very neat design nonetheless..


-Carson
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Thanks Carson!

Ya I’m getting close to having all the parts reverse engendered. How that Lockframe works exactly is pretty interesting and I’m going to have to study some Videos to see how it all “works”. That V shape part you mentioned will be a real test for Nylon printing. I had to thicken it up a bit in hopes that it will still work as intended. Should be definitely interesting.

This Mauser is truly a thing of beauty and being able to break it all down really enhances just how amazingly detailed it really is. Such a fun project!

Here is the sight which I’ll add some numbers to as well in the near future..
89E13637-6F0F-49C1-869C-4081593F44D7.png
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
This is the last part I believe. I think I have all the needed parts recreated. Now it’s onto the next step of making sure everything is correctly spaced for printing, then creating authentic sized/styled letters, numbers and stamping marks. Lastly.. assembling it all together :)
D88355C1-EAA1-4F02-81F2-EEC46AEF44EA.jpeg
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Sorry I should say I’ve reverse engendered all the parts that where graciously shared with me. Forgot I still need to do the grips (and probably a few other small things here and there) but still very much well on my way!
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
These grips are a trip. Not sure the best way to go about recreating them and had to go down some rabbit holes on YouTube but they are slowing taking shape.
4CDB7CC2-BB40-41D6-AE84-2207C78116E7.png
 

deadbolt

Sr Member
DEC Dave realized that the grips were actually turned on a lathe first for the curves & grooves, then the hand work afterwards. I had trouble modeling those too, but Dave figured it out!

The revolve axis is well below the bottom/flat side of the grips, creating the seemingly difficult to model shape they have. But if you find the correct axis point below the radius' of the grips that's all there is to it as it turned out. It completely went over my head when modeling them myself. Dave used a fixture to do two grips at a time, which seems likely that Mauser did too to save on wasting walnut.


-Carson
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
DEC Dave realized that the grips were actually turned on a lathe first for the curves & grooves, then the hand work afterwards. I had trouble modeling those too, but Dave figured it out!

The revolve axis is well below the bottom/flat side of the grips, creating the seemingly difficult to model shape they have. But if you find the correct axis point below the radius' of the grips that's all there is to it as it turned out. It completely went over my head when modeling them myself. Dave used a fixture to do two grips at a time, which seems likely that Mauser did too to save on wasting walnut.


-Carson

Finding a low axis point fully makes sense. Thanks for sharing that info. This here is my 2nd attempt and much cleaner.. worst case scenario they will get the job done I believe but using the info you mention above I’m going to try and redo them one more time. See if I can get the surface with one simple cut.. probably two though. The bottom I think will still have to be done with a revolve .. ?

80D939B9-3C64-49C9-8C66-A594A42FFAE0.png
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Finally got the grips to be seamless as desired . 4 attempts and many hours but they are most definitely now smooth!

From left to right you can see the progress (and learning cure) to get there. The first attempt took the longest and used many fillets, 2nd much less fillets, 3rd was still leaving behind the build lines but at least no fillets needed. Almost stopped here but figured one more attempt should do it.

4th = no build lines or fillers needed :)

I was positive it could be done, just needed some time to figure it out..
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deadbolt

Sr Member
That's one of the fun parts of modeling software, you know the methods, functions and commands are doable and are in there somewhere..it's just a matter of finding them, haha.
Just like the Cradle portion of the mount when I modeled it, I couldn't seem to get it quite how I wanted so I modeled and re-modeled over and over, there had to have been around 40 revisions and total rebuilds whilst modeling the overall Mount. Especially once we finally saw the Chronicles Top-View photo (Thanks to kurtyboy) just a few weeks before Dave was gonna start getting the Mount model pathed out for machining. We noticed details that we hadn't seen before like the thickness of the flats and the radius' on the top rings around the transition between the lugs and the rings themselves. It also finally helped me find a way to get the Cradle's radius' and flats between the lugs to blend properly and look correct..it was actually just a matter of using certain methods and commands in reverse order as it turned out. =b


-Carson
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
deadbolt well when your flying blind and only using pictures to guide you I don’t think most people realize just how difficult and impressive that is. I at least had a resin pair of c96 grips to study (and obviously the c96 frame itself). That mount is really quite impressive and very inspiring! Even to this day.
 
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deadbolt

Sr Member
There's always room for improvement! Especially on projects like these where the prop is virtually non-existent to study without photographs..
I always considered it the 'never ending project' in a way, which in turn keeps us all busy wondering and collaborating. :D

There have been and will likely continue to be multiple generations of predecessors as far as the study of the ANH Hero goes, it's gonna be a generational thing..:p


-Carson
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Ya I think ur right on all accounts. Most definitely always room for improvements.. I’m still trying to do just that on these grips actually. I noticed that the back and fronts are somewhat flat but the bottom is not so I’m presently adding new planes for guide cuts. It’s a bit tail chasing but I do have a very specific end goal in my mind. I can see what I want.. just trying to bring it into reality..
 

chubsANDdoggers

Sr Member
RPF PREMIUM MEMBER
Davy Jones The grips you mean? Honestly I’ve never worked with a 3d scan before but I’m sure it would be helpful? It’s accurate and in scale obviously? From my understanding 3d scans are simply a mesh file is that right?
 
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