TazMan2000
Master Member
Meshmixer from AutoDesk. Free. Also has some pretty good editing tools.
TazMan2000
My Adventures in 3D Printing
- Thread starter masterjedi322
- Start date
Meshmixer from AutoDesk. Free. Also has some pretty good editing tools.
TazMan2000
Starbase101
Sr Member
Meshmixer also includes a lot of free bugs and glitches, so save your work OFTEN.
ID10T
Sr Member
Well.
It’s been a busy week. But I’ll cut to the relevant bit.
I bought a used Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. I knew it needed cleaning, and this was reflected in the price. What the seller failed to mention is that the resin vat was not included. After buying that, I’m at new printer price. For a dirty printer. So, I sent that back and got a refund.
Moments after receiving my refund I purchased a refurbished (it has all the parts!) Mars 2 (non-pro version). And I also purchased two additional new Elegoo metal resin vats. For a bout the same money (a bit more if you count the shipping cost to return the first one).
I have a bottle of resin, and a gallon of denatured alcohol. No curing or washing machine yet but that’ll come later.
Maybe by this time next week, I’ll be printing...
It’s been a busy week. But I’ll cut to the relevant bit.
I bought a used Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. I knew it needed cleaning, and this was reflected in the price. What the seller failed to mention is that the resin vat was not included. After buying that, I’m at new printer price. For a dirty printer. So, I sent that back and got a refund.
Moments after receiving my refund I purchased a refurbished (it has all the parts!) Mars 2 (non-pro version). And I also purchased two additional new Elegoo metal resin vats. For a bout the same money (a bit more if you count the shipping cost to return the first one).
I have a bottle of resin, and a gallon of denatured alcohol. No curing or washing machine yet but that’ll come later.
Maybe by this time next week, I’ll be printing...
TazMan2000
Master Member
I would probably try a few different kinds of filaments with smaller prints, and see how that goes. There is always a chance the hotend is heating up more or less than what the display says it's set at too. I've heard that once you start modifying these printers you can have odd things happen. Meanwhile though, everybody seems to mod them in some fashion, so who knows.I haven't modified or altered my CR-10 in any way and I print primarily PLA plus through it. It doesn't seem to be any different than printing regular PLA, I'm not switching out nozzles more often or anything like that.
Maybe do some searching over on youtube to see if anybody ever had this issue with that hot end. Good luck to you.
So I replaced the hot end. I printed out a long job, at about 17 hours, so I'm calling it fixed. Thanks for your advice.
TazMan2000
The Phrozen Mega 8K is up for preorder as of this morning - Sonic Mega 8K Preorder
Pretty impressed by this thing - huge print volume with a 15” 8K screen for ~$1500 shipped (coming this Summer). Looks like the full price will still be lower than comparable print volumes (e.g. Peopoly Phenom L) plus it’s 8K…
While I would love to get one, I’m still learning and can’t justify the expense right now, but I look forward to seeing what people make with these!
Sean
Pretty impressed by this thing - huge print volume with a 15” 8K screen for ~$1500 shipped (coming this Summer). Looks like the full price will still be lower than comparable print volumes (e.g. Peopoly Phenom L) plus it’s 8K…
While I would love to get one, I’m still learning and can’t justify the expense right now, but I look forward to seeing what people make with these!
Sean
Noeland
Master Member
I saw Uncle Jessy's video on that yesterday. It really does looks interesting. Printing technology moves along pretty darn quickly!! I thought the same thing too, love to have one, can't really justify that price tag while I'm still learning. Meanwhile the Photon X is right in my budget.
It's 8k but I believe still prints at the same quality as a 4k 8.9 if I'm not mistaken. Just like a 5k 10.1 is the same as a 4k 8.9. Also I'm using bro science to make this claim.
Noeland
Master Member
Just to see what kind of results I would get, I printed Ander's grips (without the checkering) in Elegoo transparent red resin. I had noticed some minor warping on the Silverhand grips I did, but those were pretty thin. I wanted to see what would happen with a solid object. Lots of warping. I thought you guys might be interested. The resin does print as nicely transparent, and if you want to sand the warp out and buff them out I think they will look great and nicely see through. I have some transparent orange resin on order, it's not elegoo or anycubic, it's an off brand, and I will share my results from those prints as well.
Side note: This was not cause by curing as one of the grips is cured, and one is only washed and not cured. The warping is happening during the printing.
Side note: This was not cause by curing as one of the grips is cured, and one is only washed and not cured. The warping is happening during the printing.
TazMan2000
Master Member
You may be able to take the warp out by heating. Mind you I've never tried that with photopolymer resin, just regular casting resin.
TazMan2000
TazMan2000
ID10T
Sr Member
Another update.
I believe I am offficially in the deep end. Also in the Elegoo fan club (cult perhaps?)
Same seller I got my second/replacement printer from listed up refurbished wash n cure machines. (Best price out there if you want/need one). Ordered that this morning.
So, I guess we’ll see what happens when you give an ID10T expensive toys...
I believe I am offficially in the deep end. Also in the Elegoo fan club (cult perhaps?)
Same seller I got my second/replacement printer from listed up refurbished wash n cure machines. (Best price out there if you want/need one). Ordered that this morning.
So, I guess we’ll see what happens when you give an ID10T expensive toys...
Been reprinting the Mando helmet for our neighbor, this time scaled to 87%.
The challenge has been, at 75%, I was able to fit two pieces on the build plate. At 87%, I can only fit one, each of which was a 10-12 hour print.
So this one has been taken much longer and really been pushing the limits of the Wash and Cure 2.0 (more on that later).
Time to put it all together!
Sean
The challenge has been, at 75%, I was able to fit two pieces on the build plate. At 87%, I can only fit one, each of which was a 10-12 hour print.
So this one has been taken much longer and really been pushing the limits of the Wash and Cure 2.0 (more on that later).
Time to put it all together!
Sean
Iskelderon
Sr Member
Bought one together with my Photon Mono and it makes everything a breeze. One minor problem was that the magnetic induction isn't working right, I have to move the basin a few centimeters to the back to het the distilled water to swirl at the desired speed. Can't complain for under a hundred bucks for that machine.
ID10T
Sr Member
Ok! Here we go!
I got my lovely printer today. It even came with a sample of water-wash resin, so I’m using that for the test print. It’ll be done sometime tonight, after I’ve left for the day, so we’ll see what happened (or didn’t) in the morning.
Washer did not arrive today. But I have a cool printer and three resin tanks so far...
I got my lovely printer today. It even came with a sample of water-wash resin, so I’m using that for the test print. It’ll be done sometime tonight, after I’ve left for the day, so we’ll see what happened (or didn’t) in the morning.
Washer did not arrive today. But I have a cool printer and three resin tanks so far...
Iskelderon
Sr Member
Don't worry, you'll get by with manually washing your print results for a few days and letting it cure in the sun until the companion machine arrives.
Just be conscious of the necessary safety measures, they're even more important if you do this manually.
ID10T
Sr Member
It's cool. I'm always wearing gloves and glasses around here anyway. Plus ******** filters (AKA earplugs), so I'm good.
I leveled the base front to back and side to side first. Then set the build plate per the instructions. Checked the LCD is working (yep). Dumped in the resin sample and started the print.
Oh, I did do a little cleaning of the rubber gasket for the lid, which had some sticky resin residue on it. But not much. I also used lens cleaning wipes to clean the LCD and FEP (on the outside) before I started. Both looked fine but the FEP was not brand new. Not a big deal. No scratches on the LCD (which would be a big deal)
It's at 26% as I type and I don't smell a thing. The resin smell reminded me of the dentist getting a filling- same basic chemistry I believe...
Note for anyone who cares: The Mars 2 interface (what you see on the screen) is slightly different from what is shown in the manual, which is written for the Mars 2 Pro. So, go home shows lines with boxes at the bottom rather than a picture of a house. A few other things too, but the appropriate icon is in the same location as the example (provided you are on the correct page), but the icon looks different. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning I think.
Another thing- I had planned to disable the fan on the Mars 2 Pro, to avoid pumping fumes into the room. However, the Mars 2 I have also has a fan (for cooling of the light I presume) and disabling it on the Pro may eliminate the cooling, if there is only one fan.
I leveled the base front to back and side to side first. Then set the build plate per the instructions. Checked the LCD is working (yep). Dumped in the resin sample and started the print.
Oh, I did do a little cleaning of the rubber gasket for the lid, which had some sticky resin residue on it. But not much. I also used lens cleaning wipes to clean the LCD and FEP (on the outside) before I started. Both looked fine but the FEP was not brand new. Not a big deal. No scratches on the LCD (which would be a big deal)
It's at 26% as I type and I don't smell a thing. The resin smell reminded me of the dentist getting a filling- same basic chemistry I believe...
Note for anyone who cares: The Mars 2 interface (what you see on the screen) is slightly different from what is shown in the manual, which is written for the Mars 2 Pro. So, go home shows lines with boxes at the bottom rather than a picture of a house. A few other things too, but the appropriate icon is in the same location as the example (provided you are on the correct page), but the icon looks different. Not a big deal, but worth mentioning I think.
Another thing- I had planned to disable the fan on the Mars 2 Pro, to avoid pumping fumes into the room. However, the Mars 2 I have also has a fan (for cooling of the light I presume) and disabling it on the Pro may eliminate the cooling, if there is only one fan.
