My Adventures in 3D Printing

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.


ID10T

Sr Member
I remember that... I thought it was active but since rebuilding the machine I apparently never reactivated it.

I found pressing and holding two fingers allows me to change orientation as I move my fingers around. That’s good enough for now.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

ID10T

Sr Member
So, I had a diabolical idea today.

I know that when cold casting, it is not unusual to “dope” the resin with metallic powder- typically aluminum.

But, has anyone tried it with UV curing resin? If not, this serves as my patent application disclosure!

I have access to many powdered metals, alloys, ceramics and carbides. I might try a small piece and see how it does. I’m guessing the refractory and CTE of the dopant chosen will very much effect the print. It may not be that easy...

In other news I’ve been kicking a- and taking names with this printer. I will get my investment out of it for sure!
 

TazMan2000

Master Member
I don’t think that putting in metal powders would be wise. No matter how fine they are, the powders are actually shards of metal that probably would eventually wear through the FEP. Or at the very least cloud up the FEP with tiny scratches.

TazMan2000
 

xeno

Sr Member
So, I had a diabolical idea today.

I know that when cold casting, it is not unusual to “dope” the resin with metallic powder- typically aluminum.

But, has anyone tried it with UV curing resin? If not, this serves as my patent application disclosure!

I have access to many powdered metals, alloys, ceramics and carbides. I might try a small piece and see how it does. I’m guessing the refractory and CTE of the dopant chosen will very much effect the print. It may not be that easy...

In other news I’ve been kicking a- and taking names with this printer. I will get my investment out of it for sure!
The metal powders are too heavy and sink to the bottom of the vat fast, and maybe clump and brake your screen :)
there is a vid about metallic flakes in the resin, but the success rate was terrible.
 

ID10T

Sr Member
That’s back-burnered for now. Need a recirculating pump with thermostatically controlled heating element. Probably go PLC control...

I had another print fail today. It seems to me, the plastic sheet lasts roughly 1/2 liter of resin. More than that and you run the risk of printing on the sheet. I got the anchor to the build plate just fine (I’ve found really cleaning that with Acetone before each print really helps) but then I got a biscuit on the film.

New tank with new film: new print runs fine. No other changes to parameters.

I just finished slicing the bunker bomb from return if the Jedi. But I really want the puck bombs they used in Rogue One (maybe the same in the scene right after Han Solo gets gored by his kid?)

I see them offered on Etsy from at least two sellers- it appears they have the same file. (I could be wrong about that too) Anyway, I’m not finding a file for that puck. If you have one or know of one, please let me know.

I had another thing to write which I’ve forgotten. I’ll put it in a later post I guess.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

ID10T

Sr Member
Ok Technical question.

I have a program called Solid Edge that I use for 2-d drawings. It can do 3-d as well, so, I figured I'd import an STL and tweak it to be more screen accurate.

But that didn't work. The version I have does not allow import of STL files. (Solid Edge does, but possibly a newer version that what I have)

So, looking into it, there are a few options. Blender is one of them, but there are others.

The question: I want to be able to modify STL files; however, I also want to create 3-d objects from scratch. I also want a freeware, but the ability to save my work, which some freewares do not allow. It should be easy for an ID10T to operate too.

I had a turntable tonearm all drafted up (soft files were lost to a hard drive crash) and intended to machine it (or have machined) from Aluminum, carbon fiber, brass, tungsten and ceramic (as the sonic need required). I'm thinking now, I could 3-d print the aluminum parts to test the proof of concept.

So, what do you guys suggest?
  • Steep learning curve (ID10T friendly)
  • Low (or no) cost
  • Ability to create objects
  • Ability to edit STL files
  • Served on a silver platter
 

TazMan2000

Master Member
There are several free packages and online sites. One of the easiest online ones is TinkerCad to create new objects. You can import STLs in as well, but sometimes the geometry gets screwed up. I use TinkerCad a lot, but it can't do everything. Search google for free STL software and check the reviews to see if it will be a fit for you.

TazMan2000
 

Iskelderon

Well-Known Member
Also, consider installing Meshmixer, it's free and perfectly fine for situations where you just need to split a model into multiple parts, do minor repairs or want to convert an STL into an OBJ.
 

ID10T

Sr Member
Tinkercad is one that I ran across as well in my searching.

I guess I was just looking for first-hand advice from someone doing what I’d like to do for some guidance.

But I think mesh mixer is a good asset regardless so I’ll look into that.
 

ID10T

Sr Member
The specific project I want to work on is the 2-mal com link. The file is not terrible but the top piece needs some tweaking. Plus I want to alter it to take the real washers I found for it.

I plan to print the top in clear resin and light it like the movie prop.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

ID10T

Sr Member
Forgot to mention I’m doing a bunker bomb and Han’s ANH hero blaster:

A09046C8-88EC-47E0-ABE6-1917D720260E.jpeg
CEE336CE-8227-40E3-AE6D-538445B3F15A.jpeg
FCA0064C-1C7F-4D09-832A-4203C0A73E8F.jpeg


I could have finished the bomb parts but I didn’t start early enough, so I did a short print of some parts for the blaster. The blaster has 40 pieces… five or six print runs. First batch came out excellent- the dovetail is air-tight (too tight really but LOOK how nice the parts look!!)

Bunker bomb will need a couple parts re printed. I had them too close together and they became one. I think I can fit them into the second run. Hopefully reworking that tonight.
 

ID10T

Sr Member
Just downloaded the software which requires OS 11 or later. I'm running the latest version of 10, so it's just sitting in my aps, taking up space.
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Iskelderon

Well-Known Member
And Chitubox is running glacially again. I’m not sure what is causing this.
Next time it gets on your nerves, take a look at the free version of LycheeSlicer. It's financed through ads, but in many cases it's faster and more reliable than Chitubox. Took me less than a day to decide that it's right for me and to buy the Pro upgrade.
 

ID10T

Sr Member
I may do that.

It’s acting like it is massively processing- it gets hot, fan is running and moving slow. But I can’t figure what is causing it.

I have a dozen browser tabs open but nothing else running, and the machine is pretty solid otherwise. Doesn’t make sense.

Other times it runs just fine and I can get a lot done.
 

ID10T

Sr Member
This latest version is running mode consistently for me.

I had to go into the Mac and allow it to use the files on the disc image. Why they deliver it that way I have no idea.

But, all the printing preferences I had in the old version carried over to the new one (printer type/details and resin type/ details) so that was cool.

My bunker bomb from ROTJ is done now. I’m reading the 25-page thread with the details although I still don’t know the correct colors to use…
 

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Your message may be considered spam for the following reasons:

  1. Your new thread title is very short, and likely is unhelpful.
  2. Your reply is very short and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  3. Your reply is very long and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  4. It is very likely that it does not need any further discussion and thus bumping it serves no purpose.
  5. Your message is mostly quotes or spoilers.
  6. Your reply has occurred very quickly after a previous reply and likely does not add anything to the thread.
  7. This thread is locked.

Don't want to see this ad? Sign up for anRPF Premium Membershiptoday. Support the community. Stop the ads.

Top